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Freewing 80mm A-10 Modifications

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  • TSHobbies
    replied
    Originally posted by F106DeltaDart View Post
    Oh autocorrecf, the gift that that never stops giving. Even when asked. Repeatedly... That said I'm hungry now.. :Silly:
    lol, yeah, everyones worried about N Korea ,Russia etc starting WWIII , but it'll probably be auto correct that actually starts it

    Leave a comment:


  • F106DeltaDart
    replied
    Originally posted by T-CAT View Post

    Mmmmmmm Oreos! :)
    Oh autocorrect, the gift that that never stops giving. Even when asked. Repeatedly... That said I'm hungry now.. :Silly:

    Leave a comment:


  • T-CAT
    replied
    Originally posted by F106DeltaDart View Post
    I have a set of Oreos standing by to mod, the main issue is retract position. The retracts right now are set up for trailing links, and are aligned with the center part of the strut. For, Oreos, the retract has to be moved inboard to account for the strut offset. Still planning on doing it, but it makes things a bit more difficult. I definitely post when I get around to working on it.
    Mmmmmmm Oreos! :)

    Leave a comment:


  • F106DeltaDart
    replied
    Originally posted by downwindleg View Post
    I mentioned this on the main thread earlier but since this thread is all about mods, I thought I'd bring it up here too. Wondering if anybody has thought about replacing the main nonscale struts with normal struts with functional oleos. I know the stock ones were developed for heavy grass but they are too bouncy,which would be fine in taller grass,and not conducive to gear doors being that they are trailing link. With all the other mods aimed at improving scale appearance, just wondering if this has been looked at as a mod or an MRC option/upgrade. Only the strut would have to be replaced, not the retract mechanism. Any thoughts? Brad
    I have a set of Oreos standing by to mod, the main issue is retract position. The retracts right now are set up for trailing links, and are aligned with the center part of the strut. For, Oreos, the retract has to be moved inboard to account for the strut offset. Still planning on doing it, but it makes things a bit more difficult. I definitely post when I get around to working on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • downwindleg
    replied
    I mentioned this on the main thread earlier but since this thread is all about mods, I thought I'd bring it up here too. Wondering if anybody has thought about replacing the main nonscale struts with normal struts with functional oleos. I know the stock ones were developed for heavy grass but they are too bouncy,which would be fine in taller grass,and not conducive to gear doors being that they are trailing link. With all the other mods aimed at improving scale appearance, just wondering if this has been looked at as a mod or an MRC option/upgrade. Only the strut would have to be replaced, not the retract mechanism. Any thoughts? Brad

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete Lane
    replied
    Pete's battery strap mod.

    I had to stack my packs to achieve the proper CG.
    This mod will work for both long rectangular packs
    As well as the square brick packs I intend to use.

    Just 3 easy steps.

    1- Remove the stock front strap from its current location.
    2- Feed it through the rear buckle from left to right
    As seen in pic.
    3- Hot glue the strap to itself being carefull not to
    Burn yourself. Trim off excess. Use gloves or wrap your carrots in
    Masking tape. I dident do either. You may want to
    add a square of Velcro to the location the strap contacts the pack to insulate.

    That's it. And its Free !

    Leave a comment:


  • downwindleg
    replied
    Originally posted by Thomas W View Post
    Uummm, I run a Mazak laser at work and could cut a couple dozen nose gear plates out of our offall .062., .080, or .090 aluminum easily. I would need the dimensions though. Also, would it be better to have a tab of saaay .250 pointing down as a backer for the strut mount to rest against? I also run a brake while the lasers cutting. I dont have my A-10 yet so Im just going off what I see on here with the plate cracking and causing slop.
    I'm down for one or two of those plates when the details get worked out. Maybe T.I. could help out with the dimensions. Thanks, Brad

    Leave a comment:


  • dahawk
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper2 View Post
    As a "grass guy", had that plane come with little itty bitty tires, I would have immediately started looking for a larger, "off road" tire, just like what happened with the P-38. That's one of the major deficiencies of the FMS A-10. I'm so glad that Motion/Freewing/Flightline are developing new planes with grass in mind.
    +1. Even the full- scale had rough surfaces in mind. Keep the grass field jets coming !

    Leave a comment:


  • TSHobbies
    replied
    actually,just to correct myself, this was a Robart scale wheel tire....

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  • TSHobbies
    replied
    asphalts really rough on the tires..especially after a skid, found an old Dubro low bounce wheel ,cut the center out of it,and fits just right on the nose... I'll have to check and see if I can do that with the mains as well...wondering if it might help reduce the bounce any on not so perfect landings? but will at least help to keep from having to replace the wheels every so often.

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    As a "grass guy", had that plane come with little itty bitty tires, I would have immediately started looking for a larger, "off road" tire, just like what happened with the P-38. That's one of the major deficiencies of the FMS A-10. I'm so glad that Motion/Freewing/Flightline are developing new planes with grass in mind.

    Leave a comment:


  • RCjetdude
    replied
    Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post
    I thought they must have did that for the grass guys, I fly off asphalt so it shouldn't be a problem for me, to bad FW didn't include a smaller scale front tire or offer one for us asphalt flyers. I used a main wheel from the fw F-14, drilled some dimples in it and painted it white to match the rear, now it looks more scale, I know it's a small detail but that big tire was all I could look at on those locked down and dirty passes.

    Note: You will have to shim it to keep it centered like the stock one was. Let me try it first guys and make sure it holds up or have any tracking issue, it has two small screws that hold it together pinching the tire in between the two rims, it's one of those two part rims, seems strong and very well made.
    Nice mod. Let us know how it goes.

    Leave a comment:


  • F106DeltaDart
    replied
    Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post

    If you make up some plates, I'm sure there are others who would be more than glad to pay for one, my nose gear has a lot of slop in it, so I would need one for sure. Also changed out my nose gear tire, the stock tire just looked to big to me.
    +1 on the nose gear plates. Love the scale nose wheel mod as well, will definitely be changing to the F-14 wheel on mine!

    Leave a comment:


  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    I thought they must have did that for the grass guys, I fly off asphalt so it shouldn't be a problem for me, to bad FW didn't include a smaller scale front tire or offer one for us asphalt flyers. I used a main wheel from the fw F-14, drilled some dimples in it and painted it white to match the rear, now it looks more scale, I know it's a small detail but that big tire was all I could look at on those locked down and dirty passes.

    Note: You will have to shim it to keep it centered like the stock one was. Let me try it first guys and make sure it holds up or have any tracking issue, it has two small screws that hold it together pinching the tire in between the two rims, it's one of those two part rims, seems strong and very well made.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • T-CAT
    replied
    Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post

    If you make up some plates, I'm sure there are others who would be more than glad to pay for one, my nose gear has a lot of slop in it, so I would need one for sure. Also changed out my nose gear tire, the stock tire just looked to big to me.
    That no doubt looks better to me :Cool:. I think Freewing created larger wheels simply for better non-pavement related operation.

    Leave a comment:


  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by Thomas W View Post
    Uummm, I run a Mazak laser at work and could cut a couple dozen nose gear plates out of our offall .062., .080, or .090 aluminum easily. I would need the dimensions though. Also, would it be better to have a tab of saaay .250 pointing down as a backer for the strut mount to rest against? I also run a brake while the lasers cutting. I dont have my A-10 yet so Im just going off what I see on here with the plate cracking and causing slop.
    If you make up some plates, I'm sure there are others who would be more than glad to pay for one, my nose gear has a lot of slop in it, so I would need one for sure. Also changed out my nose gear tire, the stock tire just looked to big to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ronniehinesh
    replied
    I made a plate out of some thin CF I had laying around. I also made a top plate to take out the fore and aft wobble. My son is going to fly it Sunday before the Tullahoma War Birds fly in on the 15th

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete Lane
    replied
    If your anywhere near San Jose cally I can provide my A10 for Dims. I would like a plate when it goes into production please. As far as the plate thickness plus tab possibility and height I can't answer that but the other machinists will. Thanks !

    Pete

    Leave a comment:


  • Thomas W
    replied
    Uummm, I run a Mazak laser at work and could cut a couple dozen nose gear plates out of our offall .062., .080, or .090 aluminum easily. I would need the dimensions though. Also, would it be better to have a tab of saaay .250 pointing down as a backer for the strut mount to rest against? I also run a brake while the lasers cutting. I dont have my A-10 yet so Im just going off what I see on here with the plate cracking and causing slop.

    Leave a comment:


  • TiredIronGRB
    replied
    Originally posted by Xenicman View Post
    Can anyone direct me to a post to deal with the slop in my nose gear strut?

    Leave a comment:

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