Hello Ronnie,
With Motions top of the industry reputation for customer support and service on their products I gotta ask WHY are you even futzin around with trying to repair a new part that you received damaged :Confused:
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Freewing 80mm A-10 Modifications
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[QUOTE=downwindleg;n83620]No it wasn't Feb 2nd lol. But ya a ground hog hole did a job on the front of the A10 from the canopy forward.Originally posted by Ronniehinesh View Post
You mean your Warthog got destroyed by ground hog? Wow, what are the chances? Was it Thursday February 2nd by any chance?LOL
Brad
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Started with the rivets, Long way to go. Trying to match location and spacing as best I can from online photos. I noticed that not all adjoining panels have rivets/screw heads on both sides of panel lines. Not trying to be too critical, but don't want it to look like stitches either.
Don't know if it's been mentioned with other hogs or I missed it, but the stock paint on mine is two tone, lighter contrast on bottom. Others the same?1 Photo
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In that case, Ronnie, I look forward to seeing what you come up with on the A-10 and I hope my pictures helped. I might have other ones of areas if you're particular about where which kind of rivet is used.
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[QUOTE=Ronniehinesh;n83608]You mean your Warthog got destroyed by ground hog? Wow, what are the chances? Was it Thursday February 2nd by any chance?LOLOriginally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View Post
Hi Ronniehinesh, the real A-10 uses different rivets in different areas, so your "OCD" as you say may not be fully satiated here, haha. If we want to get technical, most but not all of the real A-10's fuselage forward of the main spar uses flush rivets. 5mm is way too thick for the effect we want --What we're doing on this model are just shallow depressions, that try to capture the overall effect of a rivet without actually replicating its real life shape (which is a flat circle with a small dot in the center, not merely a hole). Its really difficult in this scale in foam to model an actual flush rivet shape as shown below. The outer diameter is nearly flush, and the dot/hole in the center would be very tiny. Perhaps someone could create a specialized die/tool for the job, but then again, you're working against the surface tension of the foam... and besides who's inspecting rivet fidelity on this aircraft?! To thicken the challenge, much of the fuselage behind the wing uses rounded head rivets. See some references I photographed myself on a Black Snakes A-10, 658.
The wing root fairing shows the flatter flush rivets, and you can also see the round head rivets as they begin to dominate the rear fuse.
Note that the rear fuse has both kinds of rivets, flush and round head:
There are also visible seam lines of seam sealant. Even Mibos don't have that level of detail.
An easy "scale mod" is to add the joiner plate visible in this picture on the leading edge of the outer wing. I sliced straight into the foam and buried thin piece of scrap plastic. It's visible in several pictures of Regulus [Prime] that won the Scale Jet award in Arizona.
Remember, the point in all this is to have FUN!
Even the baby 64mm A-10 wants to get in on the action.[/QUOTEThanks for the information and pictures.
I have done flush and raised rivets on my sons FMS P47 with good success. Now that I have the photos I'm going to try a few techniques on a crashed A10 (bad landing and ground hog hole) and see what works best. I'll post some pictures of the mock up and see what you guys think.
Brad
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[QUOTE=Alpha.MotionRC;n83541]
Hi Ronniehinesh, the real A-10 uses different rivets in different areas, so your "OCD" as you say may not be fully satiated here, haha. If we want to get technical, most but not all of the real A-10's fuselage forward of the main spar uses flush rivets. 5mm is way too thick for the effect we want --What we're doing on this model are just shallow depressions, that try to capture the overall effect of a rivet without actually replicating its real life shape (which is a flat circle with a small dot in the center, not merely a hole). Its really difficult in this scale in foam to model an actual flush rivet shape as shown below. The outer diameter is nearly flush, and the dot/hole in the center would be very tiny. Perhaps someone could create a specialized die/tool for the job, but then again, you're working against the surface tension of the foam... and besides who's inspecting rivet fidelity on this aircraft?! To thicken the challenge, much of the fuselage behind the wing uses rounded head rivets. See some references I photographed myself on a Black Snakes A-10, 658.
The wing root fairing shows the flatter flush rivets, and you can also see the round head rivets as they begin to dominate the rear fuse.
Note that the rear fuse has both kinds of rivets, flush and round head:
There are also visible seam lines of seam sealant. Even Mibos don't have that level of detail.
An easy "scale mod" is to add the joiner plate visible in this picture on the leading edge of the outer wing. I sliced straight into the foam and buried thin piece of scrap plastic. It's visible in several pictures of Regulus [Prime] that won the Scale Jet award in Arizona.
Remember, the point in all this is to have FUN!
Even the baby 64mm A-10 wants to get in on the action.[/QUOTEThanks for the information and pictures.
I have done flush and raised rivets on my sons FMS P47 with good success. Now that I have the photos I'm going to try a few techniques on a crashed A10 (bad landing and ground hog hole) and see what works best. I'll post some pictures of the mock up and see what you guys think.
Leave a comment:
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Hi Ronniehinesh, the real A-10 uses different rivets in different areas, so your "OCD" as you say may not be fully satiated here, haha. If we want to get technical, most but not all of the real A-10's fuselage forward of the main spar uses flush rivets. 5mm is way too thick for the effect we want --What we're doing on this model are just shallow depressions, that try to capture the overall effect of a rivet without actually replicating its real life shape (which is a flat circle with a small dot in the center, not merely a hole). Its really difficult in this scale in foam to model an actual flush rivet shape as shown below. The outer diameter is nearly flush, and the dot/hole in the center would be very tiny. Perhaps someone could create a specialized die/tool for the job, but then again, you're working against the surface tension of the foam... and besides who's inspecting rivet fidelity on this aircraft?! To thicken the challenge, much of the fuselage behind the wing uses rounded head rivets. See some references I photographed myself on a Black Snakes A-10, 658.Originally posted by Ronniehinesh View PostAs for the rivets, I've seen posts where the person use a dowel sanded down to 5mm. I did this and tried it on the plane and they just looked big to me. I'm all about scale, I'm I being over critical. What size rivets are you guys doing on your A10's?
The wing root fairing shows the flatter flush rivets, and you can also see the round head rivets as they begin to dominate the rear fuse.
Note that the rear fuse has both kinds of rivets, flush and round head:
There are also visible seam lines of seam sealant. Even Mibos don't have that level of detail.
An easy "scale mod" is to add the joiner plate visible in this picture on the leading edge of the outer wing. I sliced straight into the foam and buried thin piece of scrap plastic. It's visible in several pictures of Regulus [Prime] that won the Scale Jet award in Arizona.
Remember, the point in all this is to have FUN!
Even the baby 64mm A-10 wants to get in on the action.Last edited by Alpha; Jun 28, 2017, 07:05 AM.
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Neat idea....love the creative element.Originally posted by Fast Eddie View Posthttps://youtu.be/8QmFahwRHbM
I just purchased and received the full body scale pilot from Jet Hangar Hobbies. I did not know the head comes separate from the body. So I thought I would try for the first time and have the pilots head swivel from a servo. I'll Y into Steering channel. never done this mod before and haven't seen this mod done yet on the 80mm A-10. I hope video plays as this is my first Video upload too. My A-10 arrives tomorrow. Ordered canopy early to tinker with until plane arrives. I'll post more after painting and attaching flexible oxygen hose.
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I just purchased and received the full body scale pilot from Jet Hangar Hobbies. I did not know the head comes separate from the body. So I thought I would try for the first time and have the pilots head swivel from a servo. I'll Y into Steering channel. never done this mod before and haven't seen this mod done yet on the 80mm A-10. I hope video plays as this is my first Video upload too. My A-10 arrives tomorrow. Ordered canopy early to tinker with until plane arrives. I'll post more after painting and attaching flexible oxygen hose.2 Photos
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I had found a few close-up pics of the pod, but could not make out all the details of the stencils, so I didn't bother with them.
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I've got the lettering done from post #235. I've found all the lettering except for the warning at the rear of the sniper pod. Does anyone have a clear picture of it or know what the warning says?
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Check post 235 of this thread.Originally posted by Ronniehinesh View PostI'm working on making decals for the bombs, missiles and other under wing pods. On the Sniper Targeting Pod at the rear there is a warning: RF Burn Hazard Remain at least 14 foot???. I can not read the last part of the statement. Does anyone know or have a picture of the pod. I have searched the web extensively and have found a lot of photos, but non give me a clear view of this warning. Any information on any of the under wing lettering would be greatly appreciated. My OCD kills me when I start detailing a plane.:Silly:
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I'm working on making decals for the bombs, missiles and other under wing pods. On the Sniper Targeting Pod at the rear there is a warning: RF Burn Hazard Remain at least 14 foot???. I can not read the last part of the statement. Does anyone know or have a picture of the pod. I have searched the web extensively and have found a lot of photos, but non give me a clear view of this warning. Any information on any of the under wing lettering would be greatly appreciated. My OCD kills me when I start detailing a plane.:Silly:
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1-2mm sounds more like it to me.. ThanksOriginally posted by RCjetdude View Post
Mine were more like 1-2mm...
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WBC.... Wish I could have found it locally. Here's where I got mine. Godd and strong, real light too. Comes shipped in a very sturdy tube witha hundred potential uses;).Originally posted by OV10 View Post
TJ......did you get that CF locally??
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I've used Tamiya XF 19 Sky gray. It's a very close match. Painted all my servos.Originally posted by wvrailfan View PostI may have missed it if it was discussed earlier, but ha anyone found a close match for the gray paint used on this plane. I would like to remove some of the injection marks and will need to do some touch up painting.
Jim
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