Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[Elbee]

Nope, but I have that Red Ryder BB Gun hangin' on the rack in the back window of my pickup. Heehaw. Best, LB

[Grover54]

If you have an Airbrush use Vallejo Air model paints, then seal it
This was done with Vallejo and the top is completely covered. I think it was about $3.50 for the base coat

Hey guys - I've seen a lot of weathering and "action" smudges and they all look great but IMHO less is more. However, I wasn't there but visually less is more. :Cool:

[Hugh Wiedman]

The Warbirds Pilot will fit without cutting him in half, you will have to bend him further up than normal and remove the upper floor from the cockpit. He is on the large side and a bit poofy but I believe it beats that Rubber Chinese replica.

Notice how skinny and light the canopy frames were stock, then after the repaint to make them as they should be.
Makes quite a difference to the overall look!

WOW, that really looks outstanding. Could you hook up another servo to his arm so he can put on and take off his mask? LOL

Now that I see it, I'm definitely going with the "Clint Walker" size warbirds pilot. Putting it in the Bubble-Top version, so I couldn't make up my mind between the one with a brown leather jacket (USAAF version), or the Navy version you have, although my final livery will be a Marine version-so by rights should have the Navy pilot with cream jacket and pants, (is that correct, Marine and Navy should be similar), although the brown leather jacket does look good.

Thanks for posting those photos. I was not looking forward to cutting him off at the waist, although my name will be on the plane as pilot and I will be flying it, so a pilot with nothing left below might be accurate, especially after I said "I Do". :Silly:Just kidding, couldn't help taking a cheap shot, even though it was at myself. She's not like that and even recommended I go with the more expensive pilot with a moveable head over even the Aces of Iron pilot, which still looks great, so who's going to argue with her.

[Grover54]

A little off subject but worth it. General Chuck Yeager at 89 (he's now 95) sat in a F15 Eagle and did a pre-flight. He was looking over the computer readouts and exclaimed "If a computer needs to tell you what your angle of attack is you shouldn't be flying!" OMFG!!! What a pilot he is! They broke the mold after Chuck Yeager, Bud Anderson and Robin Olds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y73tnUn6ETY . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rN3kWMcqWQ

[sethscorsair]

The Warbirds Pilot will fit without cutting him in half, you will have to bend him further up than normal and remove the upper floor from the cockpit. He is on the large side and a bit poofy but I believe it beats that Rubber Chinese replica.

Notice how skinny and light the canopy frames were stock, then after the repaint to make them as they should be.
Makes quite a difference to the overall look!

WOW, that really looks outstanding.I wish i knew how to do all of this cockpit detail! I wouldnt even know where to begin. Very nice sir!

[Aros]

Fantastic work folks! Warms my heart as a self-professed Corsair Nerd! :Cool:

[Hardway]

Indeed so LB,

I like how it all came together and I thank you !

Now about those footed jammies and that certain Christmas when this photo was taken!

You wouldn’t still happen to have these, perhaps...? LOL

You’ll shoot your eye out!

[Ken Smith]

Hey guys - I've seen a lot of weathering and "action" smudges and they all look great but IMHO less is more. However, I wasn't there but visually less is more. :Cool:

I agree with you completely but in this case I was trying to duplicate a particular aircraft in a combat zone. If not I would have never gone this far, I did research trying to get the right color for the base then went from there.
Looking at the photo again I would say I didn’t do enough.
Ken

[Elbee]

A little off subject but worth it. General Chuck Yeager at 89 (he's now 95) sat in a F15 Eagle and did a pre-flight. He was looking over the computer readouts and exclaimed "If a computer needs to tell you what your angle of attack is you shouldn't be flying!" OMFG!!! What a pilot he is! They broke the mold after Chuck Yeager, Bud Anderson and Robin Olds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y73tnUn6ETY . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rN3kWMcqWQ

Steve Ritchie & Randy Cunningham seem to fit in here somewhere don't ya think?

[Beeg]

Steve Ritchie & Randy Cunningham seem to fit in here somewhere don't ya think?

Along with Jabara, Gabreski, McConnell, Parr, Hernandez and the like..:Cool: ...and don't forget Rickenbacker and Luke!

[Elbee]

Ah, Col James Jabara, Kansas boy. Well remembered, Beeg, Bravo Zulu, Sir.

[MrSmoothie]

Beautiful morning for flying. Dad flew his F4U-1D twice and I flew my F4U-1 "birdcage" four times. Only one flight each yesterday -- with the additional flights, my thinking is this -- the F4U-1D with stock wheels did not need the two nose weights (40 gm) and we removed them for the second flight. On my birdcage (with the 3 oz heavier Robart wheels), I decided it didn't need all the up trim that I had in it yesterday, and removed all but a few clicks. So I left my two nose weights. I had some down elevator trimmed with my flaps, and set it for less (now 4% down for half flaps, 8% for full). We are both using HRB 5000s. With 6 to 6.5 minute flights, we were both landing with plenty left in the tank. I think this Corsair will easily take the HRB 6000, which I've found my my EDF's (like ME-262 and F-22) handle quite well. But I don't really need my "prop" flights to be longer than I'm getting with the 5000.

Almost forgot: add me to the list of people with "blue box" issues. Yesterday before the maiden, I tested everything at the field including taxi tests. A little later I go to do the maiden, and the plane would not turn. I figured the tail wheel steering servo plug had come loose -- but that wasn't the case. Luckily we had a servo tester, so I was able to confirm that the servo was working.

I had it plugged into the "nose steering" position on the blue box -- it's work fine for days of testing at home, and up through a few minutes of taxi testing at the field. Then it suddenly stopped working! I was able to proceed with the maiden after I saw that the blue box has two servo ports for "rudder". Once I switched it over it worked fine.

Last night I installed a "Y" harness for the rudder and steering and went directly to the receiver, bypassing the blue box. I'm not sure how much I'm really fixing here -- after all, both wing panels (with ailerons, flaps, retracts and gear doors) still all go through the blue box. But I would have felt stupid if I got the field today and had more trouble with the rudder -- those ports are all in a row, so maybe there's some logical explanation for the problem and/or worry that the rudder plugs could become a problem..

[boomer108]

I agree with you completely but in this case I was trying to duplicate a particular aircraft in a combat zone. If not I would have never gone this far, I did research trying to get the right color for the base then went from there.
Looking at the photo again I would say I didn’t do enough.
Ken

I would say you came very close. Nice job!:Cool:

[boomer108]

The Warbirds Pilot will fit without cutting him in half, you will have to bend him further up than normal and remove the upper floor from the cockpit. He is on the large side and a bit poofy but I believe it beats that Rubber Chinese replica.

Notice how skinny and light the canopy frames were stock, then after the repaint to make them as they should be.
Makes quite a difference to the overall look!

Very realistic OT! You nailed it.:Cool:

[themudduck]

Hey guys, a looooooong way back in this thread, George (Tired Iron) showed that he mounted a FMS 4-bladed prop on the Corsair. It looked sweet and he said that it flew pretty much about the same. The FMS prop is slightly smaller (17x10) but it has an extra blade.

Well I ordered the parts - you'll need the prop blades and also the plastic hub and spinner assembly. Motion has the props (part# FMMPROP002) but not the hub. The prop was originally for a big 1700mm FMS P47 which is discontinued and the hub isn't available from Motion any more. But I did find it on the FMS website and also on ebay.

I also purchased the FMS prop adapter and nut, motion has that (part# FMMDZ001). The FMS adapter uses a nut to secure the prop.

This project wasn't even close to being as simple as I thought it would be, but I did make it work so I thought Id' share my story.

So anyway, I assembled the FMS prop and when I put it onto the original OEM prop adapter, I found that there wasn't enough threads on the shaft to put the nut on. Well, it went on, but to be more precise, you need to have a little exposed thread on the end in order to screw on the spinner cap, which covers the end of the shaft. I took the prop off the plane and tried a test-fit using the FMS adapter through the FMS hub. Turns out the FMS prop adapter has the same shaft diameter but its about 1/2 inch longer. So the OEM adapter is too short! Or the new prop hub is too thick, whatever.

So I thought, OK I'll just mount the correct FMS adapter. Unfortunately, you can't do it!! The bolt holes on the OEM adapter are 1.5mm apart and the FMS adapter's bolts are 2mm apart.
There's not enough metal to bore out the holes, either.
So unfortunately you can't swap out the adapter.
And, there's no way to make the FMS hub "thinner".

By the way, the OEM adapter has Loctite on the screws, so they're really hard to remove (you need to heat the screws).
But don't do it. You have to use the original (short) OEM prop adapter that comes with the plane.
But - you will need the bolt from the FMS adapter!

Also - the hex on the OEM adapter that locks the 3-bladed prop hub in place is smaller than the FMS adapter, which means the FMS prop just spins, it won't lock into place on the OEM adapter. George told me don't worry, just tighten the nut down and it will be fine.

OK... so to make it work.... here's what I figured out.
First I used some masking tape (about three layers) around the hex, to "enlarge" it just a bit.
The FMS hub slid on nicely and stays in place. Good.
Then I had to not use the washer (under the nut). This left about 3 mm of threads sticking out.
Tighten the nut down, the prop is secure.

The last step is to screw on the spinner hub.

The FMS spinner hub has a metal nut molded into it, so when you screw it on it acts like a "safety nut" for the main nut on the shaft.

OK, well, there's not enough thread left to screw on the plastic spinner hub - actually what's happening is that the shorter shaft won't reach far enough into the spinner to engage the spinner nut.

The only way to do this is: I had to cut off about 3-4mm off the bottom of the spinner. (very carefully)
THEN it was able to screw on.

Turns out the slightly shorter spinner hub is just about exactly the same height as the OEM spinner hub, so it looks perfect.

Here's it is...... looking totally badass... I'm just sitting here, waiting for Spring.....

[t01ga]

Thanks t01ga!

I started with a piece that looks like part of a rivet but isn't -- domed top with a "tube" underneath. I have several in a parts bin and I have no idea what they are or where they came from. I soldered in a length of brass bolt and cut off to length. On the cap, I made the cross-piece from basswood and attached with Loctite superglue gel. This is great stuff and works in places that even my good hobby CA does not. The threaded part is retained with a piece of threaded aluminum spacer, cut to short length.

As for cutting holes in foam, I think I have a better way than shown in an earlier post. Start with aluminum tubing of the desired diameter. Use a brand new No. 11 blade and sharpen the inside by "slicing" while rotating the tubing. Do NOT "test" the sharpness of the tube when you're done (ask me how I know). Brass tubing is harder to sharpen, but stays sharp longer obviously. Rotate the sharpened tube into the foam and you will get a perfect hole nearly every time.

Genious; thanks for sharing buddy. Looks great.

[themudduck]

I installed the MrRCSound "Aspire" sound system, with the board and transducer mounted under the battery hatch. Here's a quick video of it being tested inside. (with the 4-bladed FMS prop from my previous post)

:)

The sound is very good in person (and quite loud). The cell phone mic doesn't really do it justice, but you'll get the idea.

https://youtu.be/KfUi047VUN0

[brk6188]

Sounds nice. I have two TT-25's mounted on the sides opp each other. I posted pics somewhere !. Mine is quite adequate in flight, easily overcomes any prop noise. I had the "whistle" energized on the maiden but had the Aspire board facing wrong way and it whistled in climb, dive and turn --- I should have read the manual ! Have not turned it around yet. Sounds like you got your sound sequence timed well with the actual Tx throttle stick position. Luck or did you have to play around a bit ?

Still having trouble keeping this thing from taking off before I am ready, she really needs some piloting to run her on the mains before lift off. Haven't seen a video yet of a "scale" take off -- of this model --- on tarmac.

[Elbee]

I installed the MrRCSound "Aspire" sound system, with the board and transducer mounted under the battery hatch. Here's a quick video of it being tested inside. (with the 4-bladed FMS prop from my previous post))The sound is very good in person (and quite loud).

TMD, I like it! What no full throttle? :( Best, LB

[Hardway]

Hey Elbee, I turned off my flash!!! ;):Cool:LOL