Originally posted by fin121
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Check the connectors on your receiver.... all of them should look the same, for example all of the white wires should be on one side. Your aileron connector may be in backwards if that is the only one not working.
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Have you determined that the AIL servos are actually good? How about the extensions and "Y's" to the interior where the control box and RX is? Use a servo tester to confirm each leg of the route to make sure all those are correct and working. Start at each servo, then at the "Y", then at the end that goes into the RX. Is the polarity correct going into each connector? Polarity at the RX? Are you sure you plugged the lead into the right port in the RX. Futaba does the pin order differently than other radio systems. Get a spare, working servo and plug it into the port you think is AIL and work the stick. Is what you think is AIL really AIL?Originally posted by fin121 View PostHi, I’ve done everything - I’ve even taken the wings off to make sure things are plugged in as they should be. All the connections are in as they should be but they still aren’t working.
ive been trying for 2 days now...
not sure what else is left that I can do
PS. This plane doesn't use "Y's", just those multiconnector cables, so need to do the servo testing at points where there are the usual servo leads. In the middle wing section, you can see where all the servo leads hook into a central connector. Find the AIL lead and pull it out, check polarity and use the servo tester there.
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Check the servos individually with a servo tester, check the connection at the multi plug where the servos plug in make sure they weren't plugged in backwards at the factory. Just try to rule out as much as possible, it may come down to you may need to bypass the multi connection I think a few guys have done that anyway.
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I have flown a few planes in my day but other than a 3d aircraft have I ever seen the recommended aileron settings for both low and high rate at 32mm or approximately 27 degrees. It appears to be a lot. Are you "guys" flying these setting as final settings for day to day flying? Thank you for your reply. Jack
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to be honest i do not use the recommended throws. when flying 1/12 scale combat we would double the manufacturers recommendations with 25% expo then fly it and tune it back till the plane would not snap any more. so when setting up anything else i use 12 degrees of deflection with 25% expo on aileron and elevator, all i can get on rudder with no expo. then fly it and move to where it needs to be. hope you paid attention during trig.
JoePlatt: fw190d9 Dynaflite:PT-19 IMP:Macchi202 ESM:fw190 ESM:Tank, Hien Jackson:DH-2 BH:macchi200 Extr:fw190 Holman:me109F H9spit2 FL:F4u,spit 9 FW:me262 GP:us60, Stuka, cub, F4u PZ:me109, albi EF Hurri, T-28 FMS: 2x fw190, me109 Lone Star:Skat Kat RSCombat:2xfw190d9
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Every model is different. This is a relatively large model (compared to other foamies) and the Corsair's ailerons are not gigantic - so this plane needs a pretty significant deflection in order to maneuver smartly. This is very much a matter of your preference... if you want to fly your plane in a more "scale" manner then using less throw will provide good results. If you think the roll rate is too slow for your own style then you may want the higher deflection. You can also mix in a little rudder as an option, that will increase the roll rate as well.Originally posted by easyjack View PostI have flown a few planes in my day but other than a 3d aircraft have I ever seen the recommended aileron settings for both low and high rate at 32mm or approximately 27 degrees. It appears to be a lot. Are you "guys" flying these setting as final settings for day to day flying? Thank you for your reply. JackMarc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Hi all,
My ailerons still not working on the Corsair, I’ve tried every combination of the ports as well.
not easy to test the Servo as trying to find the ail lead amongst the very tightly crammed multiplug in mid wing is tricky. None of them are labeled either at that point.
ive included some pictures below of the current set up, incase you spot anything obvious.
Everything else works that goes through that multi plug so don’t thing that’s the issue.
even if I got working new Servos trying to feed them through the whole wing will be a nightmare.
thanks
fin
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Sometimes, you have to use a little "out of the box" thinking. Yes, it's tight, but not impossible to do. You need some small hemostats. Just make sure you don't test the lights (2-wire) as you'll burn them out using a servo tester. That's why a servo tester is handy - for those situations where nothing is labelled.Originally posted by fin121 View PostHi all,
My ailerons still not working on the Corsair, I’ve tried every combination of the ports as well.
not easy to test the Servo as trying to find the ail lead amongst the very tightly crammed multiplug in mid wing is tricky. None of them are labeled either at that point.
ive included some pictures below of the current set up, incase you spot anything obvious.
Everything else works that goes through that multi plug so don’t thing that’s the issue.
even if I got working new Servos trying to feed them through the whole wing will be a nightmare.
thanks
fin
Failing the above, have you tried the servo tester on the AIL lead that goes into the RX? If you look at the schematic that's included in the manual, you can easily see which one is the AIL lead. Yank that out of the RX and run it on a servo tester. (If memory serves me correctly, there is also a schematic of that wing board telling you which one is AIL.)
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Yes, but that still requires you to find and isolate the AIL leads from the wing center.Originally posted by fin121 View PostHi,
thanks for reply. I’ll have to buy a servo tester as I don’t have any of the kit.
If it isn’t the servos (ie they work) a fella above mentioned to bypass the multi plug, is that the next best bet?
thanks
Fin
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A little late here but my 2 cents for what it's worth. Since both ailerons do not work, I doubt the problem is with the aileron servos, nor is it likely the 2 ribbon cables going to the blue box. I would think it is either the single lead coming out of the blue box that connects directly to the receiver, possibly a poor solder connection inside or the lead itself (the blue box takes both wing leads and essentially connects them together with a single lead coming out to the RX), or for some reason you have your TX not set up correctly. I would try the following:Originally posted by fin121 View PostHi,
thanks for reply. I’ll have to buy a servo tester as I don’t have any of the kit.
If it isn’t the servos (ie they work) a fella above mentioned to bypass the multi plug, is that the next best bet?
thanks
Fin
1) Since you don't have a servo tester, then as per the wing connector board pictured below, disconnect the aileron lead on one of the wings (should be easy to get at since you have it exposed and it is the first lead plugged in-opposite end is a 2 pin light lead), attach an extension to it and plug it directly into the RX. If it works, then there is a problem with the Blue Box. If it doesn't, then could be the servo or your RX setup.
2) If it doesn't work above, try the same with the other wing. Still nothing, then check your RX setup. I use Spektrum, so not familiar with Futaba, but I suspect that you need to make sure that your servo port for aileron is in number 2. Check the servo travel that shows the inputs on the aileron when you move the aileron stick itself and make sure it goes from 0 to 100 and 0 to -100. You can always connect the rudder servo wire directly to the aileron port in your RX to make sure the TX is sending the correct commands and now the rudder with move with as your aileron stick is deflected.
I think it most likely that either the blue box has an issue or there is something in the RX that is not set up correct, like the correct port, the amount of travel at 100, possibly for some reason the dual rates on aileron are at 0%.
Good luck, I know there is nothing more frustrating than having something so basic not working and being unable to get it right!
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" Edge
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Hi Hugh,
thank you so much for your help. And I think I have found the problem - as per advice 1) I have plugged the aileron directly into the RX ( it was long enough I could do without extension ) and it works so I think it is the single lead from blue box to Rx with a poor solder like you mentioned... anyhow I’m going to order an extension so I can plug both ail directly into RX, but before that I’ll order a new lead and try getting it working as per normal from blue box to rx
Either way problem and solution found.
thanks everyone for the help couldn’t have done it without!
fin
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I added a link to the video. Great job!My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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