Originally posted by jetfool
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Happy to assist, as for printing time, that is totally dependent upon the nozzle size of the 3D printer and the detail setting, i.e., layer height of the print. Does your grandson know which Slicer Program that the Industrial Arts' 3D printer uses? For example, I use a .25mm nozzle and the smallest layer height for the most detail. These parameters will increase the printing time 3 or more times what a standard .4mm nozzle at a modest detail setting would take to print the same file sets. Additionally, does he know what plastic material (PLA, PETG, ABS or somethng else) that the school uses? I can send you the Spinner Hub files later tomorrow. Best, Steve"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"You just need the will to do what the other guy wouldn't."~Keyser Soze~
AMA#116446
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I would have loved to be there, too! Speaking of the MOH, many years ago, Joe Foss of Guadalcanal and WWII fame, was coming through the metal detector to go to his flight at the airport. The person running the security saw the 5-pointed metal star around his neck and thought it could be used as a weapon, apparently having no knowledge of what it symbolized! Apparently, they had a conversation with the supervisor, and eventually Joe, AND his MOH were allowed to proceed to his flight. I had Serious heartburn reading that in the paper that morning!Originally posted by jetfool View PostGreat picture. Glad to see him wear his MOH. Glad your friend recognized the medal and spent time talking
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Steve, I think that was accompanied by steam coming out of the ears, too! Not to put too fine a point on it, but as I recall, that was during a time before TSA, pre 9/11 (not that I am a TSA fan!) but the airlines were tasked with paying through private companies to provide processing and security of passengers in the airport terminals. Needless to say, some of those hired, at minimum pay, weren't our finest representatives of airport and airline passenger security!
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True, I recall those airport pre-911 days and little did we realize, that was only the beginning. Disclaimer on my part, I believe for the most part TSA does a thankless job decently. I have had few issues other than time which has always been an issue. As for our gov't schools, that's getting difficult to justify their results. Best, LB
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Good points, Elbee, and I agree. Regarding that story of Joe Foss having the issue with the security person at the Phoenix Sky Harbor airport, I found an archived article on the unfortunate incident with Foss, then 86 years old, former governor of South Dakota, president of the NRA and Commissioner of the American Football League. For those interested, it is somewhat amusing in spots, and others exasperating to read. But Foss does also describe the background of the reasons he was awarded the MOH by President Roosevelt in 1943.Originally posted by davegee View Post
Steve, I think that was accompanied by steam coming out of the ears, too! Not to put too fine a point on it, but as I recall, that was during a time before TSA, pre 9/11 (not that I am a TSA fan!) but the airlines were tasked with paying through private companies to provide processing and security of passengers in the airport terminals. Needless to say, some of those hired, at minimum pay, weren't our finest representatives of airport and airline passenger security!
And, keeping to the general topic of Corsairs, in 1944 Foss took command of VMF-115, a Corsair squadron that saw considerable action in the Philippines.
Here is the link for those wanting to read it: https://www.cnn.com/2002/US/02/27/war.hero.cnna/
cheers,
davegee
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Thanks Steve. I gave him all your parameters for set-up. He and his teacher set it up and looks like it is going to be a nice cockpit. What do you do first to start painting, wash with soap and water, sand, prime
then paint? My first time finishing 3-d parts. I have watched the videos on here and practicing.
Going to be a great x- mas for me this year. Birthday is next week and wife has ordered the Tiger Tank Pro from Motion today for b-day present. Got everything paid off and enjoying retirement. Rex
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Rex, Other than ABS, most 3D prints using PLA or PETG plastics do not sand well. Depending on the detail level, examine the part for major defects, these can be filled with Thick CA. The parts you have printed are going to need some clean up as the curved side panels were printed with supports most likely. Those can be testy to sand/cut away, but you've no doubt done this before.Originally posted by jetfool View PostThanks Steve. I gave him all your parameters for set-up. He and his teacher set it up and looks like it is going to be a nice cockpit. What do you do first to start painting, wash with soap and water, sand, prime, then paint? My first time finishing 3-d parts. I have watched the videos on here and practicing.
Going to be a great x- mas for me this year. Birthday is next week and wife has ordered the Tiger Tank Pro from Motion today for b-day present. Got everything paid off and enjoying retirement. Rex
. You can use a Bic lighter to quickly melt away the fine hairs and goobers if need be. A good off the shelf primer will work, I use Black or Dark Grey Rust-Oleum from Home depot. I usually do not sand the parts after priming. Any enamel, acrylic or lacquer paints will work as long as the primer is dry.
Congrats on the King Tiger and Happy B-Day
! Should be a great building season at your place.
Any questions or comments, please do not hesitate to ask. Best as always. Steve"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"You just need the will to do what the other guy wouldn't."~Keyser Soze~
AMA#116446
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Thanks Steve Yeah gonna be a great winter building in my houseOriginally posted by Elbee View Post
Rex, Other than ABS, most 3D prints using PLA or PETG plastics do not sand well. Depending on the detail level, examine the part for major defects, these can be filled with Thick CA. The parts you have printed are going to need some clean up as the curved side panels were printed with supports most likely. Those can be testy to sand/cut away, but you've no doubt done this before.
. You can use a Bic lighter to quickly melt away the fine hairs and goobers if need be. A good off the shelf primer will work, I use Black or Dark Grey Rust-Oleum from Home depot. I usually do not sand the parts after priming. Any enamel, acrylic or lacquer paints will work as long as the primer is dry.
Congrats on the King Tiger and Happy B-Day
! Should be a great building season at your place.
Any questions or comments, please do not hesitate to ask. Best as always. Steve
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Oh Boy!,
Santa just let me know that I've been a very good boy and I have a special present on the way!.
A BUBBLE TOP CORSAIR!
Happy dance time!.
Boy is the Wallsburg Warbird Works going to be busy this next year.
Time to text Callie for the decorations for my Christmas present. Yay!.

Big box with blue tape hurry, hurry, hurry...
Aghh...
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Originally posted by Spad Driver View PostI have a special present on the way! A BUBBLE TOP CORSAIR! Happy dance time!. Aghh...Congratulations! Merry Christmas!!
Best to you and yours, LB"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"You just need the will to do what the other guy wouldn't."~Keyser Soze~
AMA#116446
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WB, probably not. I know that sounds terrible, but no use sugar coating it. I have fixed similar spots with Sherwin-Williams light weight wall filler, primer and matching paint. It is a process. If you pull the marking across itself, rather than up and away from the airframe, sometimes you can lessen/avoid some damage. i wish you the best, Sir. Let us know how it all turns out. Best, LBOriginally posted by Whiskey Bravo View PostIs there anyway to remove some of the decals I have installed to make a change and not remove the paint on the foam?"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"You just need the will to do what the other guy wouldn't."~Keyser Soze~
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I have found that at least some decals, namely the adhesive, have a reaction to the foam and even when the decals are removed as carefully as possible, there will be damage from the decal being there. As LB ably said, you will need to make some repairs with spackle or filler, sand, prime, sand again, and paint. It is a process, but if you have a special model where you want it to look its best, you pretty much have to do that, at least on some of the decals. Sometimes you get lucky, and minimal repairs will need to be made.Originally posted by Elbee View Post
WB, probably not. I know that sounds terrible, but no use sugar coating it. I have fixed similar spots with Sherwin-Williams light weight wall filler, primer and matching paint. It is a process. If you pull the marking across itself, rather than up and away from the airframe, sometimes you can lessen/avoid some damage. i wish you the best, Sir. Let us know how it all turns out. Best, LB
Good luck!
davegee
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Davegee,
2019 my wife and I took our trip to Florida and visited the Naval Museum. Saw your Corsair and it is amazing. Then we visited the Valiant Museum and I spent close to an hour and half just looking, taking pictures and taking notes on all the details you added to your P-47 that they have under glass. Amazing! I have an old Scale R/C magazine of you and Bob Frey flying it in competition. Came home and added (Stole) many of your details on my Yellow P-47. Your work gave me the encouragement to try more details on mine. For that I Thank You, Rex
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Gotta love our gov't schools
I give the benefit of the doubt to most, but 'a weapon'...seriously? Best, Steve



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