Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[Aros]

The world needs more Elbees.

[davegee]

Post deleted by author

[Hugh Wiedman]

The world needs more Elbees.

Me thinks that one Elbee is quite enough. We wouldn't want to cheapen the original and could you imagine having to keep up with more Elbee's? We can't even come close to this one. Any more and we'd have to retire in ignomanious defeat!

https://youtu.be/A7r-B3gsxcY?si=pFFrmWyv0wXEjHBS

Like Harcourts 500 wives.

[f4u ausie]

Yes not to b corny,,, there r many good (clever) people , but only a certain few.. u would like to shake hands in respect. Of constant niceness and helpfullness... but hese still a clevorD?? With that 3 d printing stuff

[Elbee]

Hey Y'all,

As per Rex and many others, I am back at trying my hand at weathering the Corsair.

I am using pastels, airbrush acrylics, pencils, and so on.

This picture doesn't quite catch the tone/hues, but is representative of the changes in intensity when comparing one wing half to the other,

I am trying for faded more so than dusty, but it looks more dusty than faded.

This is probably due to what I understand is called post-shading rather than painting a faded looking shade at the start.

I think the post-shading works well with modern jets, but maybe not so much with WW 2 era aircraft,

Again, I have not really grasped the concept of weathering, though I know it when I see it.

I can live with this look, but I am concerned how all this will look after I spray the Matte/Flat coat.

Any one have experience with what happens when you spray matte on pastels?

Best, LB

[davegee]

Hey Y'all,

As per Rex and many others, I am back at trying my hand at weathering the Corsair.

I am using pastels, airbrush acrylics, pencils, and so on.

This picture doesn't quite catch the tone/hues, but is representative of the changes in intensity when comparing one wing half to the other,

I am trying for faded more so than dusty, but it looks more dusty than faded.

This is probably due to what I understand is called post-shading rather than painting a faded looking shade at the start.

I think the post-shading works well with modern jets, but maybe not so much with WW 2 era aircraft,

Again, I have not really grasped the concept of weathering, though I know it when I see it.

I can live with this look, but I am concerned how all this will look after I spray the Matte/Flat coat.

Any one have experience with what happens when you spray matte on pastels?

Best, LB

Looking good, Elbee! For one who has trod the runway where these planes operated out of on Peleliu, I can attest there was Plenty of coral dust that ground its way into the surfaces of the aircraft and everything else, and also a LOT of fading on the upper surfaces due to the intense heat and humidity there. I like the fading and weathering you have done on your top "left" wing so far.

Regarding your question spraying a matte finish over your weathering handiwork, I'd say be careful! I have run tests of spraying on a matte overspray on top of chalks I used for weathering, and it essentially obliterated all my work. It basically disappeared when the matte was sprayed over it. For my Corsair, I guess I look at it as a "living canvas" and add a touch or two when it needs it, in my opinion. I also find I learn other minor touches using the chalks that I wasn't previously aware of, but then found a period photo that justified a minor change. For instance, these R2800 engines that flew on the Corsair, P-47, and F6F Hellcat, put out some light grey streaks in several areas of the fuselage, starting just aft of the cowl flaps. I think those could be wiped down by the ground crew if they had the time and inclination to do so. I add them on my P-47s, and after awhile they fade or are wiped off through handling and then I reapply them.

My point to the above being, that you can try a matte spray but you might want to do some testing on a separate foam sample piece or on a less obvious place on your Corsair as a test, first. Just my two cents' worth. Maybe you'll find a matte spray that won't cover the chalks, and if you do, please let me know!

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

Elbee,
Weathering is looking great. My weathering looked terrible in the beginning but as I kept gently rubbing it in, the dust disappeared so I got the look I was after. Darker aeras blended into the lighter aeras and if too much I washed it off and started again. Once you have what you want let it set a few days. Seemed the weathering settled into the clear poly coat and now 2 yrs later it looks even better. I tried spraying clear over my weathering but it disappeared so I left the weathering alone. Yes, as you wipe it down it does lose some but I figured I can always touch it up. Haven't had to touch it up yet and it gets better and better with age.

Best Regards, Rex

[Elbee]

jetfool davegee

Points well made, I had had the thought to shoot the matte first and after reading what you've both written, that appears to be a logical step.

I want/need to seal the whole airframe, so markings are less noticeable as stickers or decals.

I might have put the cart before the horse it would seem.

As stated, like all things, it is a process not a one shot task.

I am very thankful for all of y'all and truly appreciate the advise and welcome the criticism.

Best as always, LB

[davegee]

jetfool davegee

Points well made, I had had the thought to shoot the matte first and after reading what you've both written, that appears to be a logical step.

I want/need to seal the whole airframe, so markings are less noticeable as stickers or decals.

I might have put the cart before the horse it would seem.

As stated, like all things, it is a process not a one shot task.

I am very thankful for all of y'all and truly appreciate the advise and welcome the criticism.

Best as always, LB

I appreciate your desire to seal in the decals so that they don't look like stickers. On several of my models in the past (non foam) I have always painted all my markings and nomenclature on with stencils, just as they did with the real ones. Especially if you have details behind them like rivets (flush or non-flush) panels, hinges, etc., this allows those things to show through, as they should. But with foamies, I just haven't found stencils in most cases that won't damage the foam or pull up paint that didn't have all that good of adhesion to the foam and really can make a frustrating mess. So, in most cases with these foamies, I put the markings on as "stickers." But painting all these things on as stencils is definitely the preferred approach, when it can be done, IMHO.

I'm wondering, even though I haven't done it this way before, if you put the matte clear down first before doing all the meticulous weathering with chalks and the like? I think if you spray over that left wing test pattern with the weathering, it will go back to looking a lot like the right wing that hasn't been weathered yet. That would pretty much put you at square one, but at least you'd have the markings looking more like they are painted on, versus stickers.

How did you do your F-4? Did you lay a clear coat down and then do the weathering?

Cheers

Davegee

[jetfool]

Elbee,

When I started my Corsair I took your advice and brushed on 3 coats of clear polyacrylic before I painted my scale colors. Made the model hard. Then I sprayed my colors and added the oil stains,exhaust ,chipping, decals, ect. and sprayed my clear coat on over all this. The clear coat sealed the decals and leveled the paint. After that I started the weathering with chalks. Looked like I had chalk dust over everything until I brushed and rubbed the aera's that I wanted. My sun faded top sides I used white, light grey and baby powder mixed together. Not only getting the look I wanted it smelled good too. LOL

Best Regards, Rex

[f4u ausie]

Been busy late the meeting... firstly that wing elb looks absolutely awsome i like em dirty and dusty(just my taste) im an infant rcwarbird stuff,,,, compared to u guys weathering etc..... my thoughts on a matt clear!,,, leave it i agree with dave ( living canvas) they r were constantly getting dirty then being cleaned,, they never looked the same(of course not that i was there) i agree that u will also loose most of the dirty look if u clear it.. mayb brush off the loose chalk ,, from front to back of course.. hav fun b safe,,🙃🙃

[Elbee]

jetfool f4u ausie davegee,

thinking it through, I agree that spraying on a Matte clear now, will dilute the pastels to the point of making it all moot.

Craig, I thank you, Sir. And the idea of a 'living canvas' is appealing, even welcome, as that allows for myriad errors.

Rex, Spraying the matte finish down first and sealing the decals and stickers, then weathering makes much more sense, thank you.

Dave, on my Phantom, I used exterior semi gloss latex from Home Depot for the finish, it is bullet proof.

All the nomenclature went down including the stickers, then weathering, and I finished with a matte coat.

I did the same with my F-18C with the exception of the middle gray was Ammo MiG Acrylic as the color was perfect and I no reference to scan for the color at HD to buy exterior latex.

Again, like the F-4 the Hornet was finished with a matte clear.

Best, Steve

[Aros]

Fantastic beginnings Elbee. Already looking the part as usual.

[Hawks51]

My white diamond tail Flightline Corsair VMF12 Carrier

[Elbee]

My white diamond tail Flightline Corsair VMF12 Carrier

Hawks51, Welcome to Hobby Squawk, beautiful Corsair. Best, LB

[jetfool]

Hawks51, Beautiful Corsair. Off the Carrier Franklin. Very nice Rex

[JClark]

Ok guys, really don't have time to read the whole thread 🙄. What is the go to motor upgrade for some more power on the stock three-blade?

[Evan D]

Stock is really good.

[Aros]

Leave her be. She's beautiful as is.

[rifleman_btx]

For real, the stock motor can lift the plane off the ground in about 10ft, and has the power to get out of trouble when warranted. Keep it stock.