Originally posted by Denniswpb
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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm F7F-3 Tigercat Thread
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Ready for first flight, always get the nervous feelings before the first flight even though all the reports are of a great flying plane. Waiting for perfect weather.
Has anyone reversed the directions of the motors for the correct top in rotation of the propellers on their Tigercat? The P-38 is correct with outward rotation due to buffeting of the horizontal stabilizer with inward rotation, but you remove the critical engine problem with top inward.
I know the full size Tigercat doesn't have counter rotating props but this change would add a small safety if we lose a motor or prop.
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Originally posted by Bob Vincent View PostI'm confused? Mine is all stock and it has contra rotating props. Watch the video I posted a page back and you can see them.
To answer Puregreen7 question, this bird flies equally well on any of the 3 prop rotation direction cases of CCW/CW, CW/CCW, CW/CW.
Most electric twins are set up as inward turning contras for Pfactor stability incase of a motor loss. Yeah contras on the Tiger do not reflect the full size beast whereas both the motors were norm CW rotation and this was to keep maintenance parts the same for both engines unlike the P-38 Lightning which had separate reverse gear box parts for the port engine. Again on the P-38 model, prop rotation is not a aerodynamic factor like it is on the full size.
Regards,Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Originally posted by Puregreen7 View PostMaiden complete, what a great flying warbird! Was a little windy but it handled it great. Some adjustments to be made and I think I will swap the props and change the motor rotation. It just seems weird to have the props turn tip out.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Originally posted by Puregreen7 View PostMaiden complete, what a great flying warbird! Was a little windy but it handled it great. Some adjustments to be made and I think I will swap the props and change the motor rotation. It just seems weird to have the props turn tip out.
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Originally posted by themudduck View Post
I haven't tried changing it, I've been flying it tips-out from the get-go, but I remember much earlier in this thread someone from Motion said that this model was designed this way on purpose. They said that they found that the model seemed to fly better with the backwards rotation but I don't remember what the reasoning was. Again, I don't know because I've never tried flying this model with the "tips-in" rotation! So please let us know, give us a report on whether it feels any different.Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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I recently picked up a Tigercat that was in pretty good condition. I decided to remove the existing decals and sand the entire plane down and fill in any minor dings. I then used a HVLP touch up spray gun and resprayed the plane. Put new graphics on it from Callie and then put 3 coats of clear over it.
I upgraded landing gear, but man, what a beoch to get the grub screws out of the landing gear retracts!! Here is wat I did to get 4 of the 6 stripped grub screws out: Even heating the grub screws with a soldering iron and using WD-40, they still stripped. I had to take a 1/16" drill bit and drill the down the center of the grub screws then use a 3/32" drill bit and carefully drill down the center again. Next use a #2 screw extractor to back out the remaining shell of the grub screw. Using that process, they then came out easy.2 Photos
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Prop Hub Issue. I took the Tigercat to the field today and flew it for the first time. All went pretty well as expected and it only needed a few clicks of right aileron to get it flying straight. I got it 3 mistakes high and flipped on the Admiral receiver stabilization mode, and it worked perfect as usual! Made a nice landing and then when turning to taxi back, the left prop flew off... WTF!! After inspection, the screw was still in the motor shaft. What happened was the flange broke inside the prop hub which allowed the prop to just come right off over the screw.
I've read where a few people have lost their Tigercat when this happened in flight and I sure as hell don't want that to happen!! I just ordered 2 more of the hubs, but I'm wondering if this is an inherent issue with these hubs and if there is an alternative. I would certainly pay more for a better hub design.
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Originally posted by Denniswpb View PostI've read where a few people have lost their Tigercat when this happened in flight and I sure as hell don't want that to happen!! I just ordered 2 more of the hubs, but I'm wondering if this is an inherent issue with these hubs and if there is an alternative. I would certainly pay more for a better hub design.
I had 200+ flights on without issues before it was lost along with 25+ other planes to the garage incinerator incident.
I would put a very good guess that the issue is just a simple matter of over zealous tightening practices by gorilla handed owners.
Can't count the times I've witnessed folks reefin down a metal screw against a plastic flange and causing undetected stress fractures in the plastic.
Those screws only need to be snug, not torqued, If your worried about it loosening up, use a dab of FoamTac on the screw flange.
That's all I ever do.
Best Regards,Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Thanks Charlie, that's good to know. I'll be extra careful when I replace both prop hubs to not overtighten the screws. I've also heard that if lock-tite gets on plastic it will deteriorate the plastic and I notice that a little blue Lock-Tite got on the flange when inserting the screw. I'll use the FoamTac this time!!
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Originally posted by Larry D View Post
Dennis, I don't use Admiral receivers or AS3X type stabilization on the Tigercat, so no, it was/is not the receiver or stabilization gain. Still don't know what the issue is, but the Assan AG61 has taken care of the steering for me. Wish I could take a picture to show you but this little device is installed on the floor of the fuselage below the Fuselage Control Module (FCM). Sorry - not taking it all apart again for a picture. Briefly, I removed the connectors on the FCM for Gear and Nose Steering (see page 6 of the F7F manual) plugged those into the AG61 and plugged the connections (they are labeled) from the AG61 into the respective slot on the FCM. The challenge was where to mount this little device. I thought I could just add some connector extensions - oh NO - apparently it does not like extensions. Tried it with extensions and it would not work, took the extensions off and it works perfectly. I finally installed it on the floor of the fuselage pretty much directly beneath the FCM. Running the wiring was a little challenging. I removed the lower battery tray to get to the location easier, got everything secured eventually with double sided tape and re-installed the lower battery tray (it's just four screws), powered everything up, bench tested, then taxi tested, then flight tested and it works great. Still don't know what causes the steering problem without this little gyro correcting it, maybe someday...but for now, I am happy using gyro assisted steering for take offs and landings :)
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Originally posted by Denniswpb View PostI upgraded landing gear, but man, what a beoch to get the grub screws out of the landing gear retracts!! Here is wat I did to get 4 of the 6 stripped grub screws out: Even heating the grub screws with a soldering iron and using WD-40, they still stripped. I had to take a 1/16" drill bit and drill the down the center of the grub screws then use a 3/32" drill bit and carefully drill down the center again. Next use a #2 screw extractor to back out the remaining shell of the grub screw. Using that process, they then came out easy.
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Originally posted by radfordc View Post
Drilling the stripped grub screw with a left hand drill bit will often bring the screw out by itself.
https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-...0aAmq3EALw_wcB
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