Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

[bobolos]

my retracts are loose when fully up on my 1600 spitfire , they dont quite seam to close up tightley in the wheel wells , is there a way of adjusting them tight without damage to the servos please

[Evan D]

There are set screws in the strut (2) and also in the retract unit (2).

[paulrkytek]

my retracts are loose when fully up on my 1600 spitfire , they dont quite seam to close up tightley in the wheel wells , is there a way of adjusting them tight without damage to the servos please

By tight I take it you mean the covers not the wheel as the wheel should not be too tight at the bottom of the well otherwise an electrical overload devise might kick in and stop the retracts operating. If you undo the 2 screws holding the shiny retract cover you will see 4 screws holding down the retract, check if they are tight and the unit does not rock because the screws are loose. If the 4 screws are tight remove the screws, insert thin washer under each of the 2 screws furthest away from the wheel, this will increase the distance the wheel travels into the the well and hopefully close the gap but please be aware that if you do this there is a danger that you will end up with the wheel too tight on the bottom of the wheel well and the retract gear may well lock up as there may be an overload sensor which kicks in to prevent motor overload. Better screw down the unit in the wheels up position so that you can check that the wheel is not tight in the well. If a lockup happens switch the retract power off immediately then undo the screws to relieve the pressure and use thinner washers. I assume you have already checked that the wheel covers are tight in relation to the oleos? Its a bit of a juggling act really so go carefully and good luck !!!

[bobolos]

many thanks, i will try a thin shim so it leaves a few thou of play, one i can live with but the other drops down quite a bit . all the screws are tight

[paulrkytek]

many thanks, i will try a thin shim so it leaves a few thou of play, one i can live with but the other drops down quite a bit . all the screws are tight

let me know if it works bobolos

[Jeffco]

I had my Spitfire for Christmas, what a great plane! Can't wait to fly it but my club here in South East England is closed.

[Jeffco]

Having a problem with these decals, this the triple thickness sheet. There is no adhesive on them! Anyone know about this?

[Jeffco]

Any advice about assembling the wing to fuselage. I've ordered a foam model stand to use on site. But I have fitted the receiver in the fuselage with three 10cm extension leads for ailerons, flaps and gear. Plus the plug for the strobe light. Is there a better way?

[Jeffco]

Finally, would a 18x6 2 blade prop work? Or 18x8? The 4 blade is 16x6.

[Evan D]

My post from the other site... the rondel are not water slides.


No, they are all different, not duplicates. One sheet with small nomenclatures like "don't walk" are waterslide, roundels and the tail tricolor are dull stickyback, and the side squadron are stickyback but with a over clear that you peel off after application (or before if you want). Someone said Callie is making the waterslides in her awesome stickyback with clear over. I suggest getting those

[Elbee]

ED, my error, completely. Best, LB

[Jeffco]

Yes they're sticky back with no sticky! Will Callie supply to the UK?. I'm going to ask for a replacement from Motion with sticky glue. Or I could apply my own contact adhesive.
As for why change the prop, there is no reason. Never in 40 years used a 4 blade, but it's an amazing bit of engineering and very reasonably priced. With no spare I'm concerned about breaking it.
Not sure about foam planes, most of my friends are traditional and don't think much of them. Do you think they'll be impressed when they see this one fly?

[Hugh Wiedman]

Any advice about assembling the wing to fuselage. I've ordered a foam model stand to use on site. But I have fitted the receiver in the fuselage with three 10cm extension leads for ailerons, flaps and gear. Plus the plug for the strobe light. Is there a better way?

My only complaint on the Spitfire is plugging and unplugging multiple servo leads if you remove the wings for transport, which I do. To make assembly and disassembly easier at the field, I removed the Ail/flap/gear connections and wired all three into a 5 pin latching connector, doing the same for the leads coming from the RX. This way, it only requires one quick plug in and I'm ready to bolt the wings on. I've done this on other MRC products that do not have the ribbon cables for easy connection, like the Stinger 90. Makes life so much easier and guaranteed that leaving it the way it comes will sooner or later cause a failure of the servo connections.

[Elbee]

Yes they're sticky back with no sticky! Will Callie supply to the UK?. I'm going to ask for a replacement from Motion with sticky glue. Or I could apply my own contact adhesive.
As for why change the prop, there is no reason. Never in 40 years used a 4 blade, but it's an amazing bit of engineering and very reasonably priced. With no spare I'm concerned about breaking it.
Not sure about foam planes, most of my friends are traditional and don't think much of them. Do you think they'll be impressed when they see this one fly?

JC, I apologize for misleading you. My mistake, Best, LB

[paulrkytek]

Yes they're sticky back with no sticky! Will Callie supply to the UK?. I'm going to ask for a replacement from Motion with sticky glue. Or I could apply my own contact adhesive.
As for why change the prop, there is no reason. Never in 40 years used a 4 blade, but it's an amazing bit of engineering and very reasonably priced. With no spare I'm concerned about breaking it.
Not sure about foam planes, most of my friends are traditional and don't think much of them. Do you think they'll be impressed when they see this one fly?

Jeffco, the problem is that they are REALLY super sticky, cut a circle around the roundel leaving 3mm clear see through border all around ( very sharp new knife blade) then very carefully separate the sticky backing ( very difficult to do, you need eyes of a hawk as you cannot see the surface joint !!! use the knife and a lot of patience) once apart be careful they stick like magnets to any surfaces so you need to template the position on the wing FIRST, preferably with frogtape so as not to pull off the paint. Do this before you take the backing off so that you are ready cos you only get one chance , Practice separating the backing on a spare bit of the sheet beforehand, stick one edge and work your way across removing air as you go . same logic with the vertical band on the fuselage, you only get one hit. If you want to talk about it I am here in UK just send me private message with your contact details ( click on white envelope on your avatar to send message)
regards Paul

[paulrkytek]

Finally, would a 18x6 2 blade prop work? Or 18x8? The 4 blade is 16x6.

stick with the 4 blade, they are pretty tough, just check out youtube for take off and landing videos, if you have flown warbirds and your field is well cut grass you will be fine. Fields are very wet at the moment so be ready to feed in plenty of up elevator to guard against nose over ONCE YOU HAVE TOUCHED DOWN. as you are likely to slow down pretty quick on grass right now. You will probably have to add lead to the front to achieve correct cg as per book. check the main gear carcasses the glue is sparse!!! Do the flap to elevator mix as per book, I really enjoy flying the spitfire.it has lots of power and torque so a bit of up elevator to get you rolling, ease off elevator a touch ease the throttle up on starting your takeoff,, it lifts at 1/2 throttle, be smooth on the throttle and power away, touch of right rudder and enjoy the ride..

have fun, Paul in W Yorks

[Jeffco]

Thank to you all for the advice. I'll let you know how I get on. Paul, I'll PM and phone you if necessary but your description of what to do is very clear.
I've not checked CG yet, but will let you know how it is with my Admiral 5000 battery set as far forward as possible. This is my first 6 cell prop plane, as I bought these batteries for the Avanti.
Chichester club has a hard runway so nosing over won't be such a risk. But I can't fly right now otherwise I'd have had it finished by Boxing day.
I have some of the foaming type Gorilla glue which I use to re-stick gear boxes, and I may try and get some to flow in via small drilled holes.

[paulrkytek]

Good luck Jeffco,, with the hard runway touch down on the mains and let the tail settle on its own as it slows down., just cut the throttle as the wheels touch, no flaps required..

[Jeffco]

I've assembled it, fitted the 5000 Admiral battery and it balanced at 90mm back.
This air intake, do you glue it onto the wing or leave it loose to be fixed with the screw?

[Evan D]

Loose with the screw so you can take the wing off.

[Beetlemankurt]

Well, it been a while since I posted as work has been crazy busy and I’ve been spending some time doing RC Trucking which is also massively fun.

Now I’m on holiday I finally got my aces of iron pilot and the cockpit kit in! You can’t see much of the detail in the cockpit kit in the photos but if you peer really closely through the glass in person you can........

Overall, I’m really pleased with the extra detail it adds. Just need to rebalance as I’m not too sure what effect it’s had on CG and I’ll be able to take to the skies again. enough talking, here’s some pics .

Happy New Year everyone!

Regards
Kurt