I was not too keen on the original paint scheme initially but after getting it and flying it a few times I almost did not want to change it. The scheme shows up good in the air.
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You hit on an interesting point, RCJetDude. I can share some behind the scenes information in this regard:
uring our flight evaluations earlier this year, we tested four different color schemes on the L-39. Each time, we gravitated toward the brighter color. The milspec gray disappeared in the clouds (not to mention, we have enough gray birds in the lineup right now). The camo disappeared at certain angles and became very difficult to see, even with yellow tips (not to mention, the recent F-4 was camo and we wanted to deliver a more sunlight-friendly paintjob). One of the test schemes was yellow and red, and we kept painting more yellow on the leading edges, mostly out of desperation to orient the model during diving turns. Ultimately, the Slovak scheme we selected was the easiest to orient at extreme angles, and recognizing that this bird was fast and would likely be flown by customers in wider patterns and/or more aggressively than typical level-flight birds, we decided it was advantageous to err on the "More Visible" side of the spectrum. It's also a unique color palate, which is important when you've got 50+ jets on a product menu all vying for attention.
Whereas some of our models select the "classic" schemes, such as the Spitfire, F-15, and A-10, from time to time we also like to push the envelope and expose our customer family to lesser known liveries that we still think are worth some spotlight. The Mirage Tiger Meet is another example of this, and we've got others in the pipeline to break up the monotony.
I also think we've reached a certain point where enough of our customers are interested/willing/capable of customizing these models with their own livery using Home Depot and Callie Graphics, so that has some influence on our willingness to experiment with PNP schemes as bases for customization or candidates for a complete repaint.
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I understand that and truly have no problem with the livery on the L39. Not exactly my taste but if we all liked the same thing, this would be a very boring world to live in! I do have one question though. With the current lineup of edfs from FW, there are 12 (if I counted correctly) models offered in more than one color/livery. I, personally, think that is GREAT to do. But, I have no clue what it costs to offer multiple colors on the same model at the same time. Any insight on that and also if MRC plans to continue offering jets in multiple schemes down the road on future releases or continue to do "repaints" on some models as a refresh? Thanks!Comment
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Maidened mine this morning. I don't generally video the maiden, so nothing to show here. I didn't get a 2nd flight as there was an intermittent oscillation in the motor. (I got the ARF Plus.) I think my old Sunrise ESC may have been the culprit. I will throw in a Freewing ESC that came out of and F/A-18 and try again in a couple of days. But whatever air time I did get, was superb. My friend commented on how effortlessly it got off the ground and the landing was just like the Avanti S, so I greased it and no surprises there. The flight was solid as a rock and with the 9 blade power unit from the A-10, it may have been a bit faster than the Avanti S (when there was no motor oscillation). Once I get that figured out, I'm going to love this plane.Comment
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Hey JamesonC, the calculation is different for every model. Releasing multiple liveries simultaneously has Pros and Cons which we weigh on a case by case basis. Inventory, especially spare parts inventory, are prime considerations, as is the potential drag on production line efficiency. As far as Repaints, that's also a fairly careful equation. It helps to Repower/Repaint/Replace an aging model with new equipment and color to give it new life. That being said, sometimes the investment to retool (paint mold = $) isn't worth the risk to recoup. Suffice to say, where we can keep things interesting and change things up, we try to do so with good reason, but never unilaterally.
Xviper, I'm glad to hear you got your maiden out of the way! Try not to leave too much butter on the runway with all your greased landings.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
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I find the factory scheme to be very nicely done and highly visible in the air. The decals are really nice. And we fly fast and far away. The red really helps confirm orientation under certain sky conditions.Meridian Aeromodelers, Meridian MSComment
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Got mine yesterday. It looks awesome! This is my first EDF and model with retracts. My Flap pushrods were too short (measured 80mm though) with the servos centered so I had to sub-trim them. If I hadn’t already glued the pylons in, I would have moved the servo arms. When checking the CG, should it be right side up, gear up?Comment
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Howdy. The pushrods are not too short for the flaps.... What radio are you using? You have to set the flaps up so that the servos are in the " flaps up" position. That gives you the correct amount of length for your pushrods.... Let me know if you need more info. I can help with Spektrum radios... (DX-9) And Welcome to Hobby Squawk!!!! I balanced mine inverted with the gear down. That way, when the nose gear retracts forward, it shifts to a touch nose heavy... 103 mm worked great. Right at the edge of the tape that covers the servo leads in the wing...
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No dude they are not too short. The horns should not be centered with flaps up. The horn should be over toward the flap with flaps up.
Book CG is perfect. Right on the edge of that tape. 103mm. Inverted or right side up does not matter. Gear down is better like Hardway said because NW retracts forward.
Don't be afraid to fly her on the maiden. This bird is a sweetheart. Just take it nice and smooth. She is not a park flier.
You have now left park flier world.....no high G pulls at slow speed, no floating in and plopping her down. Ease her down. You might need a little throttle on final to smooth out the flare, depending on your sink rate. Also, she likes flaps. But, she will slow way down with flaps. So prepare to add a little throttle with flaps.
Good luck!Attached FilesMeridian Aeromodelers, Meridian MSComment
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Shiny intake edges..... Me likey...
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Shiny!!!! :Drooling::Drooling::)Comment
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Thanks Hardway and Seaviper! This is also my first model with flaps so now I know. Would have been helpful if it was mentioned in the manual. I am using a DX9 and its flap system. Is using sub-trim to accomplish it harmful?Comment
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No, not as far as flaps go. When setting flaps up, always have the rod disconnected. Use sub-trim to run the servo near the end of it's travel. This will be your "no flaps" position. As an alternative, you can also use the flap menu and in position "0" (no flaps), dial in whatever it needs to run the servo to near the end point. Test for movement in position 2 (landing flaps) set at greater than zero flaps so you know that the servo is moving in the right direction when you throw the switch. Now, you can hook up the rod in "flap '0' " and dial in what you need for position 1 (1/2) and position 2 (full). Also, sometimes, you need both sub-trim and flap adjustment in the flap menu to "zero" the flaps at the starting point. Be careful you don't have any flaps dialed in (% wise) in the menu when programming a new plane. If you have the flap servo reversed, you can over-drive the servos and kill one or both.Comment
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All she lacks is a clear coat.
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Only thing i can do with paint is two tone and single color. Other than that, im a lost cause. Lol
to put it loosely a 2 yr old has more paint skill than me.Comment
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