I had the battery as far back in the tray as it would go. It was butted up against the shelf for the blue box .. speaking of blue box ... when I first set the plane up the rudder and nose gear steering would not work . I installed a “y” plugged straight into the receiver and problem fixed.. kinda has me concerned about the reliability of the blue boxes !
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Originally posted by Possum62 View PostA flying buddy just assembled the F18 and he had issues with the blue box on his as well .. maybe we just got two of a bad lot .. his was having rudder issues as well .. hopefully that’s all that’s affected.. will keep an eye on it for sure.
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Originally posted by Pogo View Post
At the risk of stating the obvious, would adjusting the rod length to the servo work ? A photo would help...
Tom
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Originally posted by xviper View PostThe front gear door on this plane is not servo actuated. Yes, there is a servo rod but it's not connected to a servo. It's connected to a bar that is pushed on by the strut. The whole mechanism is spring loaded to stay open when there is no strut against it. And yes, it's a matter of playing with the length of that servo rod and through trial and error with repeated closing and openings that the gap in the door is reduced to the desired amount when closed. However, there is a compromise between having a small gap to having the door stay open insufficiently and it gets in the way of the strut as it tries to retract, thereby causing a jamb mid-travel. Some doors, I believe have a slight warp in it and this makes it impossible to close that gap completely without it catching the strut in a bad way during the closing phase.
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Originally posted by Kahmed View Post
I did play around with all of that. Did have the strut catch the door and backed off. But then the gap increased a lot. I’m thinking about maybe heating the door a little and shaping it.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostThat's the way mine is. It doesn't really bother me since, in the air, nobody can tell anyway and on the ground the gear is down until it's time to pack it back into the car.
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Originally posted by Spencer Keith View PostQuestion please. I tried calibrating my esc and now when I throttle up my elevator goes up? What did I do wrong and how do I fix that? Look at mixing and nothing
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Originally posted by xviper View PostThat’s really hard to say, You haven’t told us what type of receiver/radio you are using. We don’t know if all your wiring is correct - ie, throttle lead to throttle port? AIL to AIL port? Etc. Can you confirm that all the stuff plugged into the blue box are in the right pins by cross referencing with the blue box diagram? What happens when you work the elevator stick? When you work the throttle stick, does both the motor and the elevator react? Look at the channel and port assignments in the TX. Have any of these been altered? If all of this checks out OK, then it could be a bad blue box and you’ll have to bypass it by using “Y’s” and extensions to go directly to the RX.
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Originally posted by JPriami View PostIf your going to run a 5000mah pack. Does it still need to be 60C+ or will 50C be just fine? I’m trying to look at pack specs & taking weight into account. Some packs even though they are rated similar. Can greatly vary on weight depending on brand.
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