Official Freewing 80mm EDF L-39 Albatros Thread

[Possum62]

I had the battery as far back in the tray as it would go. It was butted up against the shelf for the blue box .. speaking of blue box ... when I first set the plane up the rudder and nose gear steering would not work . I installed a “y” plugged straight into the receiver and problem fixed.. kinda has me concerned about the reliability of the blue boxes !

[Spencer Keith]

Mine will arrive tomorrow and ready to see what everyone’s talking about.

[Jets and Wings]

Possum62 Hello and welcome to HobbySquawk, I have several Freewing and FlightLine planes with the bluebox without any issue. It is a bit of an unknown thing! Thousands of customers have no problems with it.

[Jets and Wings]

Spencer Keith Welcome to HobbySquawk, you will love the L-39 for sure...

[Kahmed]

Has anyone here have problems with the nose gear door not closing flush on the L39?

[Possum62]

A flying buddy just assembled the F18 and he had issues with the blue box on his as well .. maybe we just got two of a bad lot .. his was having rudder issues as well .. hopefully that’s all that’s affected.. will keep an eye on it for sure.

[Jets and Wings]

A flying buddy just assembled the F18 and he had issues with the blue box on his as well .. maybe we just got two of a bad lot .. his was having rudder issues as well .. hopefully that’s all that’s affected.. will keep an eye on it for sure.

Yes it seems to happen sometimes, good you recognized it before flight, you should contact MRC Customer Service about that, just to let them know that it still happens and may be you get a new blue-box if you want.

[Jets and Wings]

Has anyone here have problems with the nose gear door not closing flush on the L39?

Not really, but you can try to bent it a little, but carefully it is plastic.

[Kahmed]

Not really, but you can try to bent it a little, but carefully it is plastic.

Ok thanks I’ll try that.

[Pogo]

Has anyone here have problems with the nose gear door not closing flush on the L39?

At the risk of stating the obvious, would adjusting the rod length to the servo work ? A photo would help...
Tom

[Kahmed]

At the risk of stating the obvious, would adjusting the rod length to the servo work ? A photo would help...
Tom

I did play around with the length of the rod but it didn’t help much. Will post pic.

[xviper]

At the risk of stating the obvious, would adjusting the rod length to the servo work ? A photo would help...
Tom

The front gear door on this plane is not servo actuated. Yes, there is a servo rod but it's not connected to a servo. It's connected to a bar that is pushed on by the strut. The whole mechanism is spring loaded to stay open when there is no strut against it. And yes, it's a matter of playing with the length of that servo rod and through trial and error with repeated closing and openings that the gap in the door is reduced to the desired amount when closed. However, there is a compromise between having a small gap to having the door stay open insufficiently and it gets in the way of the strut as it tries to retract, thereby causing a jamb mid-travel. Some doors, I believe have a slight warp in it and this makes it impossible to close that gap completely without it catching the strut in a bad way during the closing phase.

[Kahmed]

The front gear door on this plane is not servo actuated. Yes, there is a servo rod but it's not connected to a servo. It's connected to a bar that is pushed on by the strut. The whole mechanism is spring loaded to stay open when there is no strut against it. And yes, it's a matter of playing with the length of that servo rod and through trial and error with repeated closing and openings that the gap in the door is reduced to the desired amount when closed. However, there is a compromise between having a small gap to having the door stay open insufficiently and it gets in the way of the strut as it tries to retract, thereby causing a jamb mid-travel. Some doors, I believe have a slight warp in it and this makes it impossible to close that gap completely without it catching the strut in a bad way during the closing phase.

I did play around with all of that. Did have the strut catch the door and backed off. But then the gap increased a lot. I’m thinking about maybe heating the door a little and shaping it.

[xviper]

I did play around with all of that. Did have the strut catch the door and backed off. But then the gap increased a lot. I’m thinking about maybe heating the door a little and shaping it.

That's the way mine is. It doesn't really bother me since, in the air, nobody can tell anyway and on the ground the gear is down until it's time to pack it back into the car.

[Kahmed]

That's the way mine is. It doesn't really bother me since, in the air, nobody can tell anyway and on the ground the gear is down until it's time to pack it back into the car.

Yeah I messed around with it a bit more and gave up. It might have to do with the spring tension. It’s fine I guess.

[Spencer Keith]

Question please. I tried calibrating my esc and now when I throttle up my elevator goes up? What did I do wrong and how do I fix that? Look at mixing and nothing

[xviper]

Question please. I tried calibrating my esc and now when I throttle up my elevator goes up? What did I do wrong and how do I fix that? Look at mixing and nothing

That’s really hard to say, You haven’t told us what type of receiver/radio you are using. We don’t know if all your wiring is correct - ie, throttle lead to throttle port? AIL to AIL port? Etc. Can you confirm that all the stuff plugged into the blue box are in the right pins by cross referencing with the blue box diagram? What happens when you work the elevator stick? When you work the throttle stick, does both the motor and the elevator react? Look at the channel and port assignments in the TX. Have any of these been altered? If all of this checks out OK, then it could be a bad blue box and you’ll have to bypass it by using “Y’s” and extensions to go directly to the RX.

[Spencer Keith]

That’s really hard to say, You haven’t told us what type of receiver/radio you are using. We don’t know if all your wiring is correct - ie, throttle lead to throttle port? AIL to AIL port? Etc. Can you confirm that all the stuff plugged into the blue box are in the right pins by cross referencing with the blue box diagram? What happens when you work the elevator stick? When you work the throttle stick, does both the motor and the elevator react? Look at the channel and port assignments in the TX. Have any of these been altered? If all of this checks out OK, then it could be a bad blue box and you’ll have to bypass it by using “Y’s” and extensions to go directly to the RX.

Got it all fixed and had 4 great flights today. Thank you

[JPriami]

If your going to run a 5000mah pack. Does it still need to be 60C+ or will 50C be just fine? I’m trying to look at pack specs & taking weight into account. Some packs even though they are rated similar. Can greatly vary on weight depending on brand.

[xviper]

If your going to run a 5000mah pack. Does it still need to be 60C+ or will 50C be just fine? I’m trying to look at pack specs & taking weight into account. Some packs even though they are rated similar. Can greatly vary on weight depending on brand.

It depends on the brand of LiPo. Most brands exaggerate the marked "C" rating, usually by twice what it actually is. My 50C GensAce will perform better than any of my 65-130C Graphenes. An EDF doesn't really need even 50C, but it's what the battery really gives that counts. If you put in a 70C Zippy that puts out only 30C, your jet is going perform like a wet noodle. Don't look at "pack specs". Go by proven tests. You can find them on the internet. From that, you'll know what you are getting.