Fellas what’s the CG range you guys are finding to be the sweet spot these days? It’s been a minute since I had one of these models.
Also, Hugh Wiedman does the AS3X+ rx need to be perfectly flat/horizontal? I placed it under the battery tray but can’t get it to sit perfectly flat due to all the gaps under the tray. It’s close but not perfect.
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Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread
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Finally decided to upgrade the horizontal stab servo's in both my F-18's, just in case. The stock FW servos would occasionally chatter as it "searched" for neutral, never a good sign. Although I have generally had decent luck with stock FW servos, better safe than sorry. I'd already upgraded the flap servos in both F-18's to hitecs, as I had a hell of a time with one or the other flap not deploying as those tiny 9gr servos just didn't cut it. For the elevators, I wanted to go with ProModeler's which I used in my Mig-29 several years ago and have been very happy with.
ProModeler is made here in Florida, they are competitively priced with hitec and MKS and IMO are much better. They are powerful, quiet, smooth as silk and consistently return to neutral with no searching or chattering. For the 2 F-18's, I used 2 DS1010DLHV's ($45 each) and a ProModeler servo reverser in each and beefed up the servo mounts. The stock 23gr servos have one mounting screw on each side where the ProM have 2 on each side. Also upgraded my F-4's with a single ProModeler DS1660CLHV (cost $95).
If you replace your F-18 servos, a word of advice. The servo wire channels in the F-18 are barely large enough to get the plugs through and even worse snake around at several points. Almost impossible to pull the wire out for the existing, with a cord attached, and then pull new wires back through. So if you decide to replace the entire length, as I did, it's going to be a B....(female dog).
I exposed a section in the main wheel well underneath were the rudder and elevator servos snake at an angle and it made it much easier to pull from each side. I then cut a thin piece of .040 white styrene and glued it back shut over the exposed channel (one of the photos below). Sweeeeet Upgrade!! 
A few steps are below if you go that route:
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I’ve had my suspicions on these flap servos and I’m going to purchase the ones you suggest.Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
She sure flies nice with that Plus RX!!
Love the dust on the runway, makes it look like the real thing.
On the flaps not working, both of my F18's have had that issue. Definitely doesn't fly well when one flap goes to full flap deployment and another stays flat.
On mine, it was never the same flap that didn't deploy. First I wired the flaps directly avoiding the circuit board-still didn't help. Finally replaced the flap servos with Hitec flaps and that solved the issue on both!
It seems the stock Freewing flap servos just don't have enough guts when in flight with high aerodynamic forces to work 100% of the time. Hate to say it, but the only way to solve that issue is replacing the flap servos, drop in fit for the hitec HS-5065MG+ Digital Mighty, 11.9g servo (23.68mm X 11.6mm X 24mm), about $38 each. I know, more
to make things work properly.
I'm sure other similar servos will work as well. Sorry I forgot to warn you about the flap servos earlier, but actually thought it was just an issue for me since we all know I'm SPECIAL! 
My step son, Marine reserve F-18, purchased one and has several flights on it and says it’s flying characteristics mimic the real thing. He called me yesterday and said he went vertical and let it fall out into flat spin, several turns and the recovery was flawless.
Richard
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She sure flies nice with that Plus RX!!Originally posted by jetpltrich View Post
Love the dust on the runway, makes it look like the real thing.
On the flaps not working, both of my F18's have had that issue. Definitely doesn't fly well when one flap goes to full flap deployment and another stays flat.
On mine, it was never the same flap that didn't deploy. First I wired the flaps directly avoiding the circuit board-still didn't help. Finally replaced the flap servos with Hitec flaps and that solved the issue on both!
It seems the stock Freewing flap servos just don't have enough guts when in flight with high aerodynamic forces to work 100% of the time. Hate to say it, but the only way to solve that issue is replacing the flap servos, drop in fit for the hitec HS-5065MG+ Digital Mighty, 11.9g servo (23.68mm X 11.6mm X 24mm), about $38 each. I know, more
to make things work properly.
I'm sure other similar servos will work as well. Sorry I forgot to warn you about the flap servos earlier, but actually thought it was just an issue for me since we all know I'm SPECIAL!
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Sorry, don't know why it posted twice or how to delete one, just severely disabled when it comes to anything newer than a rotary phone or Cobalt programming!
The battery bay of my other F18 and the Mig 29. Nice to have open areas to install the batteries. All you need is a hydraulic press to squeeze everything under the floor boards.
The Mig has an AR10360T RX, along with all the TV wires and RC Geek AB wires and controller, all below deck, so with a will there is a way. 
+
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As jetpltrich stated, not a soldering thing. Just remove the battery tray and put everything including the RX under there, although Richard has a good reason to not put the RX under.Originally posted by Aros View Post
Absolutely will take you up on the gains!
You lost me on the wires. Is that a soldering thing? Sorry but my electrical ineptitude is showing.

Jandro suggested it to me first a couple years ago and now I do it on everything, including the Mig 29 which REALLY cleaned those rats nest up.
See below picture:
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I took Hugh's suggestion and tied the Gains to the flaps switch. With it on the flaps switch you'll have three settings, and the gains tightens up with full flaps and with flaps up not so much. I found with Hugh's flaps up gain setting I was getting aileron wobble so I reduce that gain down to 28% and it stopped, I first start with 35% then lower. With Takeoff and Landing flaps settings I increased the rudder gain an additional 10% to 20%.Originally posted by Aros View Post
Absolutely will take you up on the gains!
You lost me on the wires. Is that a soldering thing? Sorry but my electrical ineptitude is showing.

Flaps UP Gains: 28/55/10 (R/P/Y)
Take off Flaps: 50/60/20
Landing Flaps: 60/70/20
As far as the wires you can unscrew the battery floor and put the RX below it. This will clean everything up. However, I didn't do that because I want to have access to the RX for a future configuration to Full span flaps and Tailerons plus I switch the GPS from plane to plane. If anyone has the configuration setup for the Full span flaps and Tailerons for the F-18 let me know.
Richard
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Absolutely will take you up on the gains!Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
Way to go. I also put a satellite RX in, just to be safe, although maybe not necessary. If you nee the gains I set up, let me know. jetpltrich has refined my gains even better, so don't hesitate to copy. Additionally don't forget to set up the in-flight battery voltage telemetry using the included wires, plugged into the RX and all you need is to splice the red + to the battery cable (- black is already wired into the RX). And try getting all the wires and the RX under the battery tray for a nice, clean set-up. I'm balanced around 100mm back, gear down.
Tally Ho!
And Elbee, it seems all women are mysterious to me!!
You lost me on the wires. Is that a soldering thing? Sorry but my electrical ineptitude is showing.
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Way to go. I also put a satellite RX in, just to be safe, although maybe not necessary. If you nee the gains I set up, let me know. jetpltrich has refined my gains even better, so don't hesitate to copy. Additionally don't forget to set up the in-flight battery voltage telemetry using the included wires, plugged into the RX and all you need is to splice the red + to the battery cable (- black is already wired into the RX). And try getting all the wires and the RX under the battery tray for a nice, clean set-up. I'm balanced around 100mm back, gear down.Originally posted by Aros View Post
Tally Ho!
And Elbee, it seems all women are mysterious to me!!
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[QUOTE=Aros;n421977]Hugh Wiedman Behold fine sir! For I have the key to unlock this girl's mysteries in hand! :laughing[/QUOTE
Ahh, is there anything more beautiful than a 'mysterious woman'? I think not. Best, LB
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Aros jetpltrich nuts-n-volts
So happy you're enjoying the F18 with Plus. I agree that possibly since the airframe is so inherently unstable, the RC model would be a
to fly, and both of mine were. Since I spent weeks redoing each ones livery, and loved the result, I was severely disappointed in my ability to enjoy flying them (even with the Ar637T AS3X). They both turned into hangar queens until I came upon Plus. Now I look like a semi competent pilot even with the F18 and it's a blast to fly.
I converted all my aircraft (military jets/props/3D) to plus and it significantly enhanced each one, especially with landing. My Mig/SU/F4 etc are now incredibly easy to fly and land. No more fly for an hour, repair for a week.
Spektrum initiated the Plus enhancements to compete with the "Gold" standard gyro: Cortex. All turbine and expensive gas Modelers tend to use Cortex, but that's a $350+ investment, a small fraction of the overall cost. So the AR637T/8/10 are more in our pocket book.
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The Spektrum Plus is a great gyro for this bird as well as anything else really. The Plus or the Assan Nose Gear Gyro is a must for any narrow main gear. They both work great, taming the beast. Here's another little trick I've been using for almost 10 years now...
When taking off or landing, you really don't need a bunch of steering input. In fact, almost none! You also don't ever push down elevator, or need to, while taking off or landing, unless you have brakes. However, this program can work with brakes too. First, I make a switch out of the elevator stick in "Analog Switch Settings". You want it to turn on Taxi Steering when you push elevator forward at 10% down, or your preference. Anywhere behind this point or at Elevator Neutral or UP, the NGS is minimal to help keep you straight down the runway. This Elevator Switch, the Gear channel, and the Rotary Knob will control TO/Landing Steering, Taxi Steering, and NGS Trim. The Switch Positions I quote are for example. Yours may differ, but are probably the same. Obviously, check mix + and - values, each side, to to get your directions correct.
Analog Switch Setup: Highlight the first % block (Pos 0-1) of the Elevator. Move the Elevator forward until this changes to 10%. While holding steady, click it to save. You should now see Pos 0 highlight in any mix whenever you move Down Elevator Switch past 10%. Pos 1 and 2 highlight when the Elevator Stick is behind this value.
Mix#1 for NGS Taxi: Rudder to NGS at 100%(or preference). Combo Switch: Gear Down (Pos 0) is ON - AND - Elevator slightly down (Pos 0) is ON.
Mix#2 for NGS TO/LND: Rudder to NGS at ~30%(or preference). Combo Switch: Gear Down (Pos 0) is ON - AND - Elevator (neutral or UP) less than 10% down (Pos 1 and 2) is ON.
Mix#3 for NGS Trim: Rotary Knob to NGS at ~25%(or preference). Switch: Gear Down (Pos 0)
When you first taxi out, check your NGS Trim with the Rotary Knob. You could also put this control on a digital trimmer to save the position from plane to plane, but I find that the mechanical connection on any plane is subject to the terrain. They almost always need to be trimmed from flight to flight anyway. While rolling out this first time, remember, your NGS at Neutral Elevator will be very small and only give you enough motion to gently go from side to side down the runway.
Pushing 10% down Elevator will give you Taxi Steering. It should be set just enough to get turned around on the runway and lined up or whatever you need for your flightline/pits. It is like riding a bike after one uses it a few times. I put it on every a/c I own. The cool thing is that it also gives another feature. Pushing down elevator to turn around at slow speed "plants" the nose gear, making it more effective. It's only used at very low speed for taxing. Note: One could also create a mix for Brakes to come on AFTER this mix. In other words, pushing further Down Elevator to activate brakes.
You can fine tune TO/LND Steering Travel with its mix, however you need it. I keep it very small. Max travel should only be enough to feel the runway at speed. Any more and a/c can dip a wing. It does a magnificent job keeping you right down the centerline. The Rudder is unaffected during any of these mixes and swings at full travel as long as you have the NGS on a separate channel. If not, this program will still function for you. In this setup, the Rudder will travel less when taking off and landing. It will resume full travel with the gear up.
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I went out to the airport and got some more footage. It's just me with an old GoPro on my head and though the aircraft looks far away it's a lot closer than it appears. I really wish I had someone to film this so please bare with me. While I was flying an aircraft radioed on the unicom his intent to land. My agreement with the airport is A/C have priority, and I will have a radio. I did an abrupt chopping of the power, pitched up to shed airspeed, dumped everything and landed. Once he was on the ground I resumed flying. The final landing would've never have been possible without the Plus receiver.Originally posted by Aros View PostFantastic, thank you!!
video link
March 1, 2025
Link to shopping list:
Freewing F/A-18C Hornet "Gray Diamonds" High Performance 90mm EDF Jet - PNP [FJ31424P] Motion RC
Spektrum NX8+ 20-Channel DSMX Transmitter Only | Horizon Hobby
Spektrum AR8360T+ DSMX 8-Channel AS3X+ & SAFE Telemetry Receiver | Horizon Hobby
Spektrum GPS Telemetry Sensor | Horizon Hobby
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