Hey guys hope u r all safe an well....... im getting more adventurous in my endevours. 8s on f4 cooool thing,, anyway ,, 3 minuts not long on this thing so made myself a parralel xt90,,, 2 5000 mah givs 5 minuts or there.... the hrb 6000 is 820 grams,, the 2 5000 hrb 5000 1400 grams.. i no i will need to keep speed up,, but was interested if anybody had done similar things im hopeing so.... maybe 2 4000 better,, looking 4ward too some advice slash guidence:partying_face:
Official Freewing Twin 70mm AL37 Airliner Thread
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My AL37 in the Boeing P-8 Navy Posidien Scheme is almost ready, ill be posting pics this week.ill be doing setup with my radio very soon with the AR637T, should the flap range be in line with the manual?,Im also thinking to bypass the blue box for the elev,rudder,aero. and go direct to the AR637T.Comment
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I just acquired a friend's AL37. Have thought an Iberia Airlines livery would be unique and I have flown my share on Iberia. My question pertains to upgrading the current older out runners that originally came with it, to the newer and more powerful inrunners. I currently have the original 60 amp ESCs with the 5A BEC. The current ESC on the MotionRC website for the AL37 is a 60 amp with an 8A BEC.
Would anyone advise as to whether it is necessary or recommended to switch to the newer ESCs along with the new inrunners or OK to fly with existing ESC.. In which case, would be cool to use an ESC that would do thrust reversing.
Any input will be much appreciated.
thanks
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I did experience a hard lesson over again with this jet, 15mph crosswind on the ground, 20+ at 100+ft, landing approach to base, gear down, 1st stage flap, medium rate on aileron and elevator, reducing power for base, wind lifted wing and rolled jet over...won't do that again, keep speed up in heavy crosswind approach!!! It's a large surface area jet and I should have known better!!Comment
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Mines stock. Only thing I did was bypass the blue box for the elevator. I wanted more throw.
Mike\"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"Comment
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Hi GliderGuyHi SR,
I used what I had handy. 2 inches in length, and small enough diameter so you can drill holes in the fuselage walls and leave foam all around the rod.
2 rods embedded length wise on either side of top dead center and going across the fuselage joint is all it takes. Go about 1 inch “into” each fuselage “half”.
If you want to avoid top wing skin cracks that will happen after a lot of flying, remove the motor nacelles from the wing so you can get to the wiring channels in the wing. Flip the wing over so the top wing skin is on the work surface. Cut as long a piece of about 1/4 inch square carbon rod that you can fit into the length of the wiring channel and epoxy the rod against the inside of the top wing skin. Use 5 min epoxy because you will need to press the rod against the top wing skin while it cures.
If you elect not doing this, after a lot of flights, she will look like this…..
-GG
the carbon rod you recommend to put in the cable channel, did you put it parallel to the wing spar tube, or at an angle in the channel? See attached photos of how i see the tube fitting in the channel.
Cheer,
SR
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I did no cutting or drilling…,simply followed the wiring channel. It is thusly angled.
Hi GliderGuy
the carbon rod you recommend to put in the cable channel, did you put it parallel to the wing spar tube, or at an angle in the channel? See attached photos of how i see the tube fitting in the channel.
Cheer,
SR
You’ve got the right idea. Make sure to put top skin against the work surface and press down on both ends of the rod while the epoxy sets.
This makes a HUGE difference in reducing top skin stress cracking over time.
-GGComment
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flys nicely
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