Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

[Evan D]

More important to have the TE even than a perfect 22.5/22.5… a slight twist of the links on both rods should fix it.

[Aros]

Aros, the “clamp” technique in the video….may help.

https://youtu.be/Gfb-nzEUHVE

What was the wiring issue you were having?

-GG

I kind of brushed over that part since I don't have the tools for that...I will go back though to give it another look at least to absorb the concept...The wiring issue actually wasn't an issue at all. When I powered her up today on my lunch break everything was acting normal (deflection-wise, minus having to reverse everything in my radio)...

[Evan D]

You can use anything to clamp them, hair clips, Bulldog clip…

[GliderGuy]

Aros, It is a cat and mouse game for sure. I gave up with 25 mm high and 25 mm low = 50 mm wide vs 45 mm wide to get both sides flush with the outer tip at full rudder deflection. Worked fine in flight.

-GG

[Aros]

The latest version of the manual is out for those looking for it...

Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber Instruction Manual
This is the latest version of the manual (2.5) which covers the proper measurement for the "clamshell" rudders and trim settings for the elevators and ailerons. Refer to page 8.

[GliderGuy]

Aros, Thanks!

Any possibility of clarifying page 17 next time? For full scale pilots, instructors saying “stick up” means move the stick so the nose goes up. The “stick up” “stick down” terms therefore confused my “pilot” brain. I thought the manual drawings were wrong.

May be silly, but “stick back” and “stick forward” seem less confusing. Or….maybe there’s even a better way? Please give it some thought so full scale pilots are not potentially confused.

-GG

[Aros]

Aros, It is a cat and mouse game for sure. I gave up with 25 mm high and 25 mm low = 50 mm wide vs 45 mm wide to get both sides flush with the outer tip at full rudder deflection. Worked fine in flight.

-GG

Good to know...I'll keep tinkering until it's correct. No way am I maidening this bird until all the control surfs are locked and dialed.

[Aros]

Aros, Thanks!

Any possibility of clarifying page 17 next time? For full scale pilots, instructors saying “stick up” means move the stick so the nose goes up. The “stick up” “stick down” terms therefore confused my “pilot” brain. I thought the manual drawings were wrong.

May be silly, but “stick back” and “stick forward” seem less confusing. Or….maybe there’s even a better way? Please give it some thought so full scale pilots are not potentially confused.

-GG

Excellent points and yes that IS confusing even to this low time student pilot!

[mshagg]

Appreciate that there's likely to be slight differences based on rates, how well servo horn centers at neutral etc but it would be useful to get some measurements of the linkages from ball to ball for those who have got theirs dialled. Every time you pop one of these ball links off to tweak them, they get a little looser.

[Bill b]

When they going to be in stock??? Tell to order more this time!🤣 I got off work went in to order they was gone,bummer!

[Evan D]

They were on stock for like five days! Poor excuse!

[viper1gj]

I finally got my gyro gain setup and deleted the mode control switch entirely. I got the single wire lead to the gyro gain pin and to the Rx gain channel using a slider on the Jeti DS-24. I found that -100 to +100 was not quite enough range to get the gyro to 0 gain and off so I opened the window to -125 to +125 and now the gyro is off at the bottom of the slider scale and 100% of pre programed gain at +125. So now if I need to reduce the gain in gusty or high wind conditions it is possible.

Since I do not intend to change the gyro mode out of basic normal dampening mode I deleted the mode channel and switch. As I removed the gyro lead from the Rx I noticed it is clearly labeled GYRO MODE which I did not notice before. So it all works as intended now. The gyro initializes to basic normal mode with a solid red light with the gain set to 100% of the pre programmed gain which is 40% roll, 5% pitch, and 100% yaw. Ready for test fights Thursday from grass runway. Fingers crossed it will have thrust needed to take off.

Thanks for all the help getting me straightened out.
Gary

[Gravythe clown]

Aros I had the same issue on both wings when I first setup. All I did was turn both ball joints at each clam rudder 1/2 turn same direction. It seamed as though my upper was pushing both down. Believe it or not that worked and I didn’t notice any difference at neutral stick.

Gravy

P.S. Never mind looks like after I posted there was a refresh with your question answered already.

[Bill b]

Well evan d they sold almost 200 in less than 24hrs,one fastest selling models I ever seen them sell I Kno I have over 30 of there planes

[Evan D]

Still, Bill, I bought mine like five days after they got them. Only 30?

Edit, Motion got them on 4/5 and they went out of stock 4/12, you had a week...

Well evan d they sold almost 200 in less than 24hrs,one fastest selling models I ever seen them sell I Kno I have over 30 of there planes

[viper1gj]

Does anyone have a Home Depot touch up paint code color match for the B-2 paint?

[viper1gj]

...One other thing I’ve done is set up a mix with my unused rotary flap control channel. I made the channel I normally use to control the flaps (for aircraft that have flaps) the master and the elevator the slave. Now when I slow down and put the gear down, I roll in full what normally would be “flaps down control”. This adds just the right amount of additional up trim needed for the slow, gear down, pattern part of the flight. I can set 1/2 what would normally be “flaps” for take-off for just the right touch of up trim needed during the slow part of the flight right after liftoff.
I just pretend like I am flying a “flapped” bird…but of course the B-2 isn’t a flapped bird.
This could be implemented with a switch you would normally use for “flaps”, but she will jump up when the switch is first moved unless she is slowed quite a bit first. Would still work. For example, you’d slow down, drop the gear and when the nose starts to drop…flip the switch to “add flaps…I mean up trim”. A multi-position switch would make the transition smoother.
Also putting the mix on what would normally be the rotary flap knob gives me a “fine tune” capability for elevator trim.-GG

I like this idea. I will look at a gear up and gear down flight mode with digital trim setting for each and just add a 2-3 second delay for flight mode change when moving the gear switch.
Gary

[Jax Quad]

[Radar-Guy]

Successful first flight from grass! The "single main wheels" mod plus 50mm nose wheels did the job. HRB 6s 5000 mAh Lipo, AUW 3950g, setup as per latest revision of the manual (V2.5).
The landing is missing on the video, after three go-arounds the battery was depleted and the following "emergency approach" ended ten metres short of the field. Surprisingly no damage at all. To be continued.
It would be great when Motion RC would release a "single main wheel" strut option for operations from this kind of grass.

Warning: Mobius 4K Hatcam video

[Flying Dutchman]

Glad that your experiments worked out successfully, RG.
Well done and thanks for sharing!

Gives me an extra option on our grass field, since I don’t have any intention to send back this beauty!