Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

[Aros]

I am adding the 8mm of up trim for the elevators to the latest rendition to the manual. What about the ailerons? I thought I read somewhere 4mm of up trim, is this correct? Appreciate any help.

[Gravythe clown]

That's where I ended up. 8mm on inboard and 4mm on outboard.

Gravy

[Aros]

Great thank you!

[franknitti]

I am adding the 8mm of up trim for the elevators to the latest rendition to the manual. What about the ailerons? I thought I read somewhere 4mm of up trim, is this correct? Appreciate any help.

This is a excellent video on the set up.

https://youtu.be/Gfb-nzEUHVE

[Evan D]

GG, yes to fin (for now).

You always put an amazing number of flights in. Any gear issues yet? Seem to be a probable weak area to me.

[Mud Duck]

Got the LED landing lights all hooked up and wired in...

I have all of the items I need to try to get this accomplished too. Do you have any other installation photos / videos of your procedure? Looks awesome and surprised they didn’t include this in the model. I’m also going to add the refueling guidance lights to the top.

[mikedlv1]

I have a issue maybe someone has seen...Jeti ds24 gyro on a three position switch...i am getting the correct LED colors ...solid red, flashing red and blue / red.
when i have the solid red LED everything works great

when i switch to trainer mode and do any control inputs the elevator & ailerons really jump around, a lot ...no wat it could fly in that mode...

i did have to reverse the ail & elev. in the radio to get them to the corrected throw.......i tried switching the wires on the board but no luck..

input??

[Flying Dutchman]

Same behavior as on my DS24 with the gyro on a 3-position switch.

But since I am not planning to use modes other than the Basic Gain (solid red led), it doesn’t bother me.

With the rudder/elevon a switch of wires on the board was sufficient for me to reverse them. I did not need to reverse them in the radio.

But if this works for you, that should be just fine!

I am still struggling myself with the rudder (clams) setup.

Even with reduced travel rates to start with (60%), I was not successful yet to set them up. Despite following the worthwhile tips of other users of this forum and two instruction clips on YouTube.

I hope you have more luck with it than I do at the moment.

[avanti127]

I have all of the items I need to try to get this accomplished too. Do you have any other installation photos / videos of your procedure? Looks awesome and surprised they didn’t include this in the model. I’m also going to add the refueling guidance lights to the top.

My LED's I ordered for the top just arrived today so I will be completing the top refueling lighting as well. I will post pics later.

[mikedlv1]

Thank you flying dutchman...im going to confirm gyro movements and keep the gyro unpluged as not to hit a switch by mistake...rudders took a bit but i got them by reducing the rudder throw to 70%...

[GliderGuy]

That's where I ended up. 8mm on inboard and 4mm on outboard.

Gravy

Yep…me too for starters. Added a few more clicks of up on the maiden, but a lighter battery won’t need it.

-GG

[GliderGuy]

GG, yes to fin (for now).

You always put an amazing number of flights in. Any gear issues yet? Seem to be a probable weak area to me.

Hi Evan,
No gear issues so far, but I’ve only landed on pavement.

I hasten to add….all perfect landings so far (LOL - just kidding, but couldn’t resist).

Actually, I only got 3 bouncy-ish landings. So not much stress on the gear so far. Give me more time.

One other thing I’ve done is set up a mix with my unused rotary flap control channel. I made the channel I normally use to control the flaps (for aircraft that have flaps) the master and the elevator the slave. Now when I slow down and put the gear down, I roll in full what normally would be “flaps down control”. This adds just the right amount of additional up trim needed for the slow, gear down, pattern part of the flight. I can set 1/2 what would normally be “flaps” for take-off for just the right touch of up trim needed during the slow part of the flight right after liftoff.

I just pretend like I am flying a “flapped” bird…but of course the B-2 isn’t a flapped bird.

This could be implemented with a switch you would normally use for “flaps”, but she will jump up when the switch is first moved unless she is slowed quite a bit first. Would still work. For example, you’d slow down, drop the gear and when the nose starts to drop…flip the switch to “add flaps…I mean up trim”. A multi-position switch would make the transition smoother.

Also putting the mix on what would normally be the rotary flap knob gives me a “fine tune” capability for elevator trim.


-GG

[Evan D]

Calling it flaps may confuse some people…

[GliderGuy]

Calling it flaps may confuse some people…

Edits made….thanks.

[Aros]

I got the rates and trims all set. Everything looks pretty good but the starboard clams (on left rudder stick) close a few millimeters below the TE of the wing and aileron...On right rudder the left clams close pretty darn close to the TE. Both rudders are dead nuts 45mm deflection from the neutral position. Not sure how to fix that if the neutral setting is already set. Any thoughts are appreciated.

[Evan D]

I’d get it right, what you have now is basically aileron offset.

[GliderGuy]

I’d get it right, what you have now is basically aileron offset.

It actually moves all 4 non-rudder surfaces. When I rotate the knob what would normally move flaps down on a flapped bird, all 4 surfaces move up a little. The amount they move at full knob rotation is, of course, set in the mix settings.

I’m lazy….I got tired of holding up elevator in the landing pattern.

-GG

[Evan D]

Sorry GG, that was to Aros having one drop brake low…

[GliderGuy]

Aros, the “clamp” technique in the video….may help.

https://youtu.be/Gfb-nzEUHVE

What was the wiring issue you were having?

-GG

[Aros]

Sorry GG, that was to Aros having one drop brake low…

Any thoughts on how to fix? If they are already centered at neutral at their 22.5mm deflection respectively, how do I trim them to deflect properly without off-centering neutral? Am I overthinking this? It's likely the case, lol.