You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Same here OV, just a black box with an X?
    Jim.

    Comment


    • I don't see it either. Not even a black box for me
      My YouTube Videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrz...4Q-xrOOtP2C-8w

      Comment


      • Originally posted by OV10
        Must be your browser, I see it 4 by 4 ;)
        I'm not seeing it either WBC.....not even and X marked box

        Comment


        • I edited the post........is it visible now???
          Warbird Charlie
          HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

          Comment


          • Originally posted by OV10 View Post
            I edited the post........is it visible now???
            I can see it, and that is not good:Angry:

            Comment


            • Originally posted by OV10 View Post
              So I've got to go on a RANT here which is not what I have ever done on this forum but I think everyone including Motion needs to be aware of this.
              During the process of my reclamation of electronics from the destroyed Artic Thunder A-10, this disturbing find was uncovered.




              What you are looking at is the port outer flap servo that has 2 of it's leads spliced back together. THIS WAS DONE AT THE FACTORY.
              Now to me, having a repaired part installed into a brand new $600 model is just unadulterated BULL:Poo: ..................SERIOUSLY FREEWING :Angry:
              Someone needs to have the factory stop with the cutting corners practice and give the customer a full value product
              I'm going to hide under the table:Scared:

              TiredIron Aviation
              Tired Iron Military Vehicles

              Comment


              • Did the TI switcheroo mod. Need to test before re- gluing covers to see if I need to grind

                Currently flying: Twin 80mm A-10, 80mm F5, 80mm A6, 70mm Yak-130, 70mm F-16v2,90mm Stinger 90, 70mmRC Lander F9F, Flightline F7F TigerCat, Phoenix 46 size Tucano, Flyzone L-39
                Out of Service: 80mm Mig-21,64mm F-35, 64mm F/A-18
                I Want: 80mm A-4, twin 80mm F4J Phantom

                Comment


                • Originally posted by dahawk View Post
                  Did the TI switcheroo mod. Need to test before re- gluing covers to see if I need to grind
                  Touch up the paint and leave them off, eventually you'll need back in there.
                  TiredIron Aviation
                  Tired Iron Military Vehicles

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post
                    Here you go Wolf.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20170815_194604.jpg
Views:	670
Size:	100.7 KB
ID:	100138
                    A-Ha! So the mod rakes the mains a little forward?

                    Thanks Steve!

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by OV10 View Post
                      So I've got to go on a RANT here which is not what I have ever done on this forum but I think everyone including Motion needs to be aware of this.
                      During the process of my reclamation of electronics from the destroyed Artic Thunder A-10, this disturbing find was uncovered.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0721.JPG
Views:	653
Size:	116.1 KB
ID:	100161


                      What you are looking at is the port outer flap servo that has 2 of it's leads spliced back together. THIS WAS DONE AT THE FACTORY.
                      Now to me, having a repaired part installed into a brand new $600 model is just unadulterated BULL:Poo: ..................SERIOUSLY FREEWING :Angry:
                      Someone needs to have the factory stop with the cutting corners practice and give the customer a full value product
                      Yikes! Is this what caused a crash?

                      Comment


                      • wow... :(

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Sky Wolf View Post

                          Yikes! Is this what caused a crash?
                          No, he had a crash caused by an in flight altercation with TI's Corsair in which the Corsair won.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Sky Wolf View Post

                            Yikes! Is this what caused a crash?
                            As Steve indicated, it was an altercation induced by my dumbass pilot error.:Loser:

                            But back to the bigger picture..........................

                            WHY IS FREEWING USING REPAIRED PARTS ON BRAND NEW $600 MODELS.
                            I want an answer. :Straight-Face:
                            Warbird Charlie
                            HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by OV10 View Post
                              I edited the post........is it visible now???
                              I see it. Very weird, when I read your description but couldn’t view the pic I figured the 3 wires were spliced, to size the length, but why 2? Is it true you’re modifying your hog with the addition of a nose mounted HSD Skyraider 4 blade prop and motor (like the razor back T-Bolt), so you never again get the short end of the stick during formation flying? LOL

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Boots Whirlygig View Post

                                I see it. Very weird, when I read your description but couldn’t view the pic I figured the 3 wires were spliced, to size the length, but why 2? Is it true you’re modifying your hog with the addition of a nose mounted HSD Skyraider 4 blade prop and motor (like the razor back T-Bolt), so you never again get the short end of the stick during formation flying? LOL
                                LOL Thanx Boots.........I needed that laugh this morning. ;)
                                Warbird Charlie
                                HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

                                Comment


                                • Since my nose was battle "bounce" scarred I have deemed it the "Rat Hawg" and dirtied her up quite a bit.
                                  Messing up the nose lead me to reversing the mains, softening the nose strut and making a new plate to limit rearward travel of the nose gear I haven't have any issues with this plane...I would like to get a nice new pretty one to "fix" but until then I'll just enjoy this "Tired" one.

                                  Click image for larger version

Name:	20171011_220159541_iOS.jpg
Views:	514
Size:	166.5 KB
ID:	100220

                                  Click image for larger version

Name:	20171011_213931820_iOS.jpg
Views:	500
Size:	159.6 KB
ID:	100221

                                  Click image for larger version

Name:	20171011_215818629_iOS.jpg
Views:	535
Size:	172.6 KB
ID:	100222
                                  TiredIron Aviation
                                  Tired Iron Military Vehicles

                                  Comment


                                  • Mate I like it, I think you've done a great job on it. Only way it could be better is to put a kangaroo roundel on it. ;)

                                    Comment


                                    • Originally posted by TiredIronGRB View Post
                                      Since my nose was battle "bounce" scarred I have deemed it the "Rat Hawg" and dirtied her up quite a bit.
                                      Messing up the nose lead me to reversing the mains, softening the nose strut and making a new plate to limit rearward travel of the nose gear I haven't have any issues with this plane...I would like to get a nice new pretty one to "fix" but until then I'll just enjoy this "Tired" one.

                                      Click image for larger version

Name:	20171011_220159541_iOS.jpg
Views:	514
Size:	166.5 KB
ID:	100220

                                      Click image for larger version

Name:	20171011_213931820_iOS.jpg
Views:	500
Size:	159.6 KB
ID:	100221

                                      Click image for larger version

Name:	20171011_215818629_iOS.jpg
Views:	535
Size:	172.6 KB
ID:	100222
                                      Long live the Rat Hawg!

                                      Comment


                                      • Anyone have to purchase a new wing set. If so how was the installation of the retracts and servos

                                        Cheers

                                        Comment


                                        • Hey Folks,
                                          For those of us average pilots who every-so-often have a less than perfect landing:
                                          I tried a few options around the rodeo bounce and the following works best for me.
                                          See video for results of the dampened struts.
                                          Adding 500,000 wt silicon diff fluid to the nose strut works like a dream. (Thanks for the detailed steps Sockrat) I find that once that nose stays down the plane did not jump back into the air much, even with fairly hot landings Even if it did, it does so with the plane level and you simply land again with no damage to the nose gear. There is no rodeo bucking which kills the nose gear.
                                          The next thing I did was soften the mains by stretching the last coil. The plane sits lower now and the mains do not jump back into the air.
                                          I have had a 12 flights with it and it works well for me. I have had very hot landing which behaved like regular predicable plane and will simple become airborne and will gently sink back onto the mains first as it loses energy. This may not be for everyone. I just wanted to share so folks are aware of the options.

                                           

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X