Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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I stretched out the mains springs to make them softer,then cut about 10mm off the nose spring and added 20,000 weight diff oil from RC cars. I’m going to switch that over to some heavier weight.Good day all,
I'm planning to purchase a A10 for me (my seventh jet) but i read about the necessity to make "a lot" MOD's in the model and want to collect more information and if it's really necessary (in our flying field we had a long grass rwy thus no problems of space neither tall grass).
Here is the MOD's list i had reached during some readings:
- BEC needs changing.
- Main gear springs are too soft (and need some help) + nose gear is too long and need to be reduced.
- Thrust nozzles need to be repositioned upward to give the correct thrust line.
Just want to hear please if someone is flying as per stock without any issues so far (all video reviews i saw didn't mentioned this mod's).
I'll really appreciate some comments.
Cheers
Everything else is what comes out of the box. No mods nessasary.Comment
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Thank you Lon.
Is good to read your feedback about no MODs with a +150 flights recorded... :-)
CheersComment
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There's pics in this thread and on RCG of how I did it....https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...9470#post89470Comment
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Just change the struts.... Take the port one and make it starboard and starboard and make it port, If you can, clip 3/8 of an inch or so off the nose gear spring... While you have these out, paint them gloss white!!!! Anyway, it works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I did the TI main gear mod . I call it the switcheroo. You basically exchange or swap the mains and then turn them around 180 deg. The whole idea was to help with avoiding the bounce that some were experiencing. It helps.
The other trend you you may hear about is the nose gear pin snapping off on hard landings. It will.
Just don’t come in too hot and keep a shallow angle glide slope and it won’t happen. I learned the hard way. Lol
Nevertheless, MRC is working on a trailing link nose strut that will be much better. They originally designed the plane with this but the scale police shamed them away from it . About 5 weeks out.
I’ve had no issues with the thrust line or bec’s. The A-10 is an excellent plane and is remarkably easy to fly. Fly’s great slow or fast. I fly off short grass. No problemo.
HawkCurrently flying: Twin 80mm A-10, 80mm F5, 80mm A6, 70mm Yak-130, 70mm F-16v2,90mm Stinger 90, 70mmRC Lander F9F, Flightline F7F TigerCat, Phoenix 46 size Tucano, Flyzone L-39
Out of Service: 80mm Mig-21,64mm F-35, 64mm F/A-18
I Want: 80mm A-4, twin 80mm F4J PhantomComment
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[QUOTE=dahawk;n109293 MRC is working on a trailing link nose strut that will be much better. They originally designed the plane with this but the scale police shamed them away from it . About 5 weeks out.
Hawk [/QUOTE]
Only shamed them half way......they left the mains as trailing link and now the crowd wants scissor link mains because of the bucking bronco effect that so many can't tame.
Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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Thank you very much to all the colleagues.
It's now much clear to me..what the result? My A-10 was ordered! :):a10
I'll give a try out of the box for the first flights and probably make the small change in the landing gears with the time. I have two brand new GensAce 5000 60C for this bird...What's the avaerage flight time ? 4 minutes?
Cheers
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Mixed throttle? Yes ~ 4 min. I get closer to 5 with the RT 6250 35 C’s
You'll love this plane ! Congrats
Look into the nerf whistle . Adds a nice touch.Currently flying: Twin 80mm A-10, 80mm F5, 80mm A6, 70mm Yak-130, 70mm F-16v2,90mm Stinger 90, 70mmRC Lander F9F, Flightline F7F TigerCat, Phoenix 46 size Tucano, Flyzone L-39
Out of Service: 80mm Mig-21,64mm F-35, 64mm F/A-18
I Want: 80mm A-4, twin 80mm F4J PhantomComment
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Thank you for the words Dehawk.
Must confess i needed to think "a lot" before decided to go with the A-10...i mean, the A-10 was always my first choice because I love the flight envelope, overall characteristics (wich includes a good electronic on board such as ESC and BEC) and general performance...looking for the youtube reviews I just saw good things around him and that´s why i felt "strange" when i found people doing "hard MOD´S" in such good/new project plane. …but after readings these feedbacks here i went for it (i live outside US thus any spare part and specially big boxes/planes is a really big issue/risk in the light of the "customs eyes", let´s say like these...it´s not a good thing pay more than USD 1400 for the same plane...the ME262 for example is impossible to purchase)...also, no NERF around here!
I passed through some other options such as F14 (the Futaba 14SG has some specific "limitations" and need to set as a Glider to have different flight envelopes with dedicated trim´s and functions, hard, "bureaucratic" and long TX config + RX with 10 CH), F104 (great but looking for a more "relaxing" jet), F15 (not the best flight envelope) and F18 (ok for the TV but i dislike planes without RUD, i use a lot in all flight phases) but must confess that i happy with my final decision.
CheersComment
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I´ve been reading this thread (from the end to the beginning) and the “main´s LG inversion” is proving to be a very good safe measure for the not 100% time perfect landings (considering a eventual nose heavy influence)…together with a smaller nose gear spring…this changes seems to be easy to be done for most of you guys but looking for a “MOD´s newbie” perspective seems challenging…in my particular case i fly only on grass so LG whit shock absorbers (for example on my Avanti S or MIG) always seems to be more positive than negative, maybe is not the case with this A-10.
A RC colleague shared with my this other solution to the mains…it seems easier to be done. What you guys think?



Cheers
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In your case, (grass field) you might be better off to stretch the springs on the mains so that they are in the semi flexed position. I'm pretty sure you would have seen that mod in the RCG thread as well. .My YouTube Videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrz...4Q-xrOOtP2C-8wComment
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I fly off a short grass field and the only thing I have done is cut about two coils from the nose spring. I also enforced the nose with carbon tubes in the channels provided just for a piece of mind. The key with this plane, as everyone has mentioned, is throttle management during landings. Extend your final and set up for a good decent with a high alpha and it will settle right in.Comment
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This compliments of Chris from the A-10 Modification thread...Merry Christmas!! Do any of you have any documentation that shows where/if there is a rotating beacon(s) on the Warthog? I have the 183 page reference book on the bird and I can't find it!!!LOLThanks for the help.... I thought I would shotgun the request to the entire group... I will find the reference book after one of you tells me!!! LOL That is the way it goes sometimes!!
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Thanks Bill.
So if i understand well you think is not necessary to change the mains springs.
CheersComment
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Thanks tclaridge.
Yes, grass rwy (around 350ft length).
I'll pay special attention to the full flaps together with both batteries all the way to the back..it seems a good strategy for a better flare.
Cheers
Thanks rlcamden!I fly off a short grass field and the only thing I have done is cut about two coils from the nose spring. I also enforced the nose with carbon tubes in the channels provided just for a piece of mind. The key with this plane, as everyone has mentioned, is throttle management during landings. Extend your final and set up for a good decent with a high alpha and it will settle right in.
I'll take a look in the NG and if it's easy i'll cut the spring (just afraid to have problems to reassemble the suspension system)...i ordered a spare NG just in case.
Thank's for the advice...we have a long rwy so no need to rush in the flare...we can hold the ELE for a long time.
Cheers
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Dear Raphael, I'll just pop in here to say that I agree with tclaridge completely. And also, make sure the batteries are placed towards the back like you said. If you land this model with the flaps hanging out, it will slow down and come in real nice. Control the throttle, obviously.... keep the nose up and you won't have any problem with the gear. It lands like a feather. But if you come in hot and don't flare, the nose will bounce the plane back into the air and you'll start bucking up and down and up and down until everything is just smashed to pieces. You can do all those mods to the gear but tclaridge and I are saying that it may not be necessary. Just our opinion! Try it and let us all know what you think.
Thanks tclaridge.
Yes, grass rwy (around 350ft length).
I'll pay special attention to the full flaps together with both batteries all the way to the back..it seems a good strategy for a better flare.
Cheers
Thanks rlcamden!
I'll take a look in the NG and if it's easy i'll cut the spring (just afraid to have problems to reassemble the suspension system)...i ordered a spare NG just in case.
Thank's for the advice...we have a long rwy so no need to rush in the flare...we can hold the ELE for a long time.
Cheers
By the way, on my model I trimmed a bit of foam off the back side of the landing gear nacelle so that the flaps could go down even further. Even with full flaps, no elevator trim is needed.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.comComment
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Thank you mudduck!
Dear Raphael, I'll just pop in here to say that I agree with tclaridge completely. And also, make sure the batteries are placed towards the back like you said. If you land this model with the flaps hanging out, it will slow down and come in real nice. Control the throttle, obviously.... keep the nose up and you won't have any problem with the gear. It lands like a feather. But if you come in hot and don't flare, the nose will bounce the plane back into the air and you'll start bucking up and down and up and down until everything is just smashed to pieces. You can do all those mods to the gear but tclaridge and I are saying that it may not be necessary. Just our opinion! Try it and let us all know what you think.
By the way, on my model I trimmed a bit of foam off the back side of the landing gear nacelle so that the flaps could go down even further. Even with full flaps, no elevator trim is needed.
Noted!
By the way, what about the throws you're using?
CheersComment








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