Originally posted by Mad Baron
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Originally posted by Mad Baron View PostWill I have to run the printer from my computer? I'll have to order a printer to practice with it.
Just like SuperJames said, mine uses a memory stick, so I just copy the file I want onto the stick from my PC, then take the stick over to the machine and start it up - in other words it does not need to be connected to the PC. If I wanted to I could take my Prusa to a friend's house and print there.
MB, it might be useful for you to check a few on-line videos to get familiarized with how these machines work.
Check this one out, its very helpful. (scroll down, the video is halfway down the page)
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Hi guys, Got some flights in on my Corsair today. I was fighting with my roll trim. If I rolled right then leveled off it would creep roll to the left. I’d trim, then if I rolled to the left it would creep roll to the right. Turned out the right aileron was going back over center in both directions. Has anybody experienced this? Servo replacement maybe? I did log the 70th flight to day.
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Md_cobra ForIf a single servo begins to behave like that, instead of all of them at once, it suggests an issue with that single servo. I would isolate the aileron servo and plug it into a servo tester directly to verify if it isn't centering properly. If any problem persists, for peace of mind, I would replace the servo.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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So I tried it plugged in to another receiver and battery and worked normal. By passed the blue box worked normal. Ran it back thru the blue box, normal. Put it all back together and it’s doing it again.
Here is a short video of what it is doing.
Plus the way the wires are done at the wing, they are twisted to shorten them. Maybe that has something to do with it.
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We've had some discussion here about the 3D-printed cockpit (panel, sides, seat, and back armor plate) and how the panel and sides aren't quite a perfect fit. Some work is needed to make these parts fit.
I had the opportunity to install mine a second time (long story) so I took some pictures to illustrate the entire process.
(This is on the bubble top model. I added the later-model gunsight, the birdcage uses the original gunsight. The panel's instruments are a glossy decal from Callie Graphics that fits perfectly)
All the 3D parts were painted ahead of time.
The first step is to peel off the plastic cockpit canopy. Then, remove the original instrument panel decal, the pilot and the entire original chair. Keep the pilot!
1) use a very sharp blade to "straighten" the cockpit side, because it's necessary to widen the space for the instrument panel. Trim to bring it about 1/16 from the edge. This shows the first cut in the right side.
I use an OLFA 9mm, the sharpest knife I've ever used on foam. It makes straight cuts very easy
Here's what it looks like after the sliver of foam is cut away.
Then I repeated on the other side
2) Here is a picture of the panel - I've trimmed off a bit from the outside ends, but all of the instruments are still there.
2) I placed the 3D parts into place to make sure they fit. Here is the panel going in.
It was too tight and so I trimmed off another 1/8 inch of foam from the sides, you can see that the sides are slightly thinner in the next pics.
3) the left and right side panel parts are installed. They are designed to slot into the side of the front panel and they sit on the bottom edge (on either side of the seat)
You'll notice some exposed white foam in the left and right front corners where the sides were widened, and below the panel. I painted all these exposed interior surfaces a green color to pull everything together.
The front panel, the two sides, and the seat back are all glued in once the fit is adjusted. I found that the side pieces were a little too long, so I just shorted them a little bit.
I also trimmed the top edges of the side pieces so that they were straight and flat.
Once this is all done, the side panels will sit too high - the edges will be sticking up over the edge of the cockpit.
3) Last step - I used a little scrap foam to even out the sides. Then I used a little foam-filler to hide the seams, and painted.
"Before" and "After":
The only thing I am missing is legs for the pilot. I am hoping to install a pilot with legs one day!
By the way I glued the pilot to the chair and then added a 1/4" thick piece of foam under the 3D-printed seat to raise the pilot a bit, so that his head would be even with the backrest. (this is the original MRC pilot).
Then I glued the chair and pilot into place.
Here's a closeup pic showing the entire cockpit, without the canopy. (The interior center is all green, the camera made it look brown in the middle)
The sides look a little rough but that's just the camera showing the closeup detail - in person this isn't very noticeable and won't be seen after the cockpit is reinstalled.
Here's a pic with the canopy on.
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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TMD, Thank you, this is truly great work. Your documentation and pictures are comprehensive and methodical that even I could get this right the first time. I would like to see a link to this post 'attached' to the STL Files on the "Support" page on the MotionRC website. Perhaps Aros can work something out. Bravo Zulu, Sir.Best, LB
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Originally posted by I-fly-rc-aircraft View PostI finally finished designing and 3D printing a drop tank and scissor links for my Bubble top Corsair. Installed them today. Happy New Year to All.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by I-fly-rc-aircraft View PostThank you LB. Everything was printed in PLAMarc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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These are the .STLs for the drop tank. I had to print the tank in two pieces lengthwise.(stood it vertically on my bed). I used magnets to join the front tank support to the plane and the rear support slid into it's plate. I used magnets from a crashed F16's cockpit for the front mount.
I can modify the front support to slide on. Just PM me if you need it. I don't plan to fly the plane with the tnak mounted.
Tom
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Originally posted by I-fly-rc-aircraft View PostHere are the ,STLs ...
Tom
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Originally posted by I-fly-rc-aircraft View PostCan someone measure the length and width of the front mast on the 1600 mm Corsair?
TIA,
Tom
The entire piece is 11cm tall (including the part that plugs into the model)
So its 110mm long x 11mm wide at the base, and 2mm thick.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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