Got myself a custom pilot.
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I had the original figure from Slimline Products. www.slimlineproducts.com/product-p/7011.htm I have several of their pilot heads. I have a vendor I use for my business that does some 3D printing, and he was able to take the figure I had and enlarge it to look more appropriate in the cockpit. I don't know if Slimline is still around, as I've seen various threads on other websites to that effect. I hope I'm wrong.Comment
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Next question - going to install the horizontal stab. I removed the covering, and see this piece of wood at the tail end of the fuselage. Do I remove this piece to slide the stab in, or does this piece stay in. The dimension of the stab indicates that this piece of wood should be removed, but I don't like cutting out anything unless I'm 110% sure.
Thanks.Comment
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RCBobP The slot for the horizontal stab should be open at the tail, so the stab slides in from the rear.
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Thanks. I did see that photo on other posts, but there was no mention of cutting out the wood. As I said I always want to confirm before I do real damage!
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What is everyone's thought on the friction connection (bolts) to hold the wings on? Seems like the aluminum U shape bar that slides into the fuse is a bad idea. Has anyone modified that yet? Had a few of the Top Gun guys in my club show real concern with it. Seems like an easy fix. Might come up with something this week and post pictures later.Comment
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As long as the two bolts are tightened down, it would be difficult to try to pull a wing loose. The big wing tube keep the wing pretty rigid, so it shouldn't move against the mount hardware.Comment
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You could solder a piece of metal across the tips of the opening, which would keep the wings from sliding out. But then you'd have to remove the bolts every time, and they are not easily accessible. I might replace the washer with a bonded washer, so that when I tighten the bolt the rubber o-ring will compress. That would take out some of the risk of the bolts vibrating loose.Comment
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I had this same concern with the wing connections when I first got mine. I can say now after have 30+ flights on the Gilmore that the U connector from the wing and bolt tension system works just fine. I believe they could of had a better design, but I have not seen any problems with it to date.Comment
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WOW!!!!Originally posted by 406PIlot View Post
30+ Flights means someone is enjoying their Gilmore.
I was wondering just this morning how things appear to have gone quiet and that it maybe an indication of more flying than building.
Please feel free to wet our appetites with pictures or flight videos.
DaleDComment
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Gilmore air time, that's what it all about. Have fun at the fly in.Comment
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Did you mount the wheel pants and they didn't hold up? Or some other reason you're going commando?
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The wheel pants cracked and split on my very first landing on paved runway. I took them off. In the process of repairing then to go back on. Just haven't gotten that far. It fly's a-ok without them 😉Originally posted by RCBobP View PostDid you mount the wheel pants and they didn't hold up? Or some other reason you're going commando?Comment
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Mounting the Dualsky GA6000.9 motor, painting the false radial engine, and mounting the cowl is what's in this next episode of my 92" Black Horse Gilmore ARF from MotionRC. Enjoy!
"Pratt & Whitney supplied the powerplants, Wasp Jr. engines with 985 cubic inches of displacement. The factory beefed up and supercharged the engines with high-compression pistons and individual stacks for less back pressure. In 1932, the manufacturer rated them as follows: 525 horsepower at 2,200 revolutions per minute and 550 horsepower at 2,300 RPM when racing." - Wedell-Williams Air Service page 34
"The engine cowl for the Model 44s was a NACA-type provided by Hill Aircraft Streamliners. The full pressure cowl created a venturi effect at the trailing edge for the exhaust to exit the stacks. Turner's cowl tapered slightly more inward at the trailing edge than the other two. " - Wedell-Williams Air Service page 35
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Some of us have begun to see some splitting at the seam in the wheel pants. Luckily, my split had just begun for about 2" at the aft end of one wheel opening.
Unlike the typical butt joint fiberglass wheel pants, these have a slight overlap joint. While it's a good idea, it appears that the adhesive may not be up to the task.
To repair and prevent further cracking, the following method was used.
I took some 2" self-adhesive drywall mesh tape, cut about 6" lengths and cut those to 1" wide strips. This material was chosen because #1 it was on hand, and #2 because it is strong, light, and sticks by itself.
It was then stuck down over the entire seam area. Then some 30 minute epoxy was mixed and brushed on using disposable acid brushes. Should do the trick.
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Thanks for the heads up and repair tip.Originally posted by Twowingtj View PostSome of us have begun to see some splitting at the seam in the wheel pants. Luckily, my split had just begun for about 2" at the aft end of one wheel opening.
Unlike the typical butt joint fiberglass wheel pants, these have a slight overlap joint. While it's a good idea, it appears that the adhesive may not be up to the task.
To repair and prevent further cracking, the following method was used.
I took some 2" self-adhesive drywall mesh tape, cut about 6" lengths and cut those to 1" wide strips. This material was chosen because #1 it was on hand, and #2 because it is strong, light, and sticks by itself.
It was then stuck down over the entire seam area. Then some 30 minute epoxy was mixed and brushed on using disposable acid brushes. Should do the trick.
DaleD
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