They all have those nuts. Cheaper to add nuts than to re-engineer the mounting bracket. :Silly:
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Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread
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If you're going to replace the stock retracts (highly recommended if you plan to fly in cool temps), you might want to dry fit the new ones before making the plate. They may fit differently and your plate may not be the same as what is needed for the stock retracts.Originally posted by Mad Baron View PostWell I am going to cut out a spacer out of aluminum plate instead of these nuts.
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Maidened mine today with a full bomb load, but got a little distracted with the nose wheel not going up. What a great plane. This thing is going to be getting a lot of flight time now. Flew 7.17 minutes Dirty and Heavy on a Glacier 3300 4s battery. Definitely needs more run way then my B-17 without an flaps on take off and the runouts on landing are pretty long,but she is well behaved for the most part. I did almost blow the first landing by pulling the elevator too hard. She looked like she wanted to start a tip stall so I pushed the nose down to a one strut at a time landing. Second landing was a greaser.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Congrats, Adam! You'll need to bring a larger foam village to Apollo now.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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No I didn't release the 4 bombs on both flights using one battery. The nose wheel got hung on the plastic cover and I kind of got distracted looking at the plane as it flew around to see if the retract was indeed back in the down position or did I burn the motor on it. If flew around with the gear hung for a few circuits before I noticed it wasn't up. 7 minutes felt like nothing. I was playing with the flaps a bunch too. I don't think the bombs effect CG as they are basically on CG and as long as the plane is slightly nose heavy like mine was to begin with it should be fine. I used 60mm as my CG. @NoDirt. without making custom fiberglass doors there is no hope of fitting 4 bombs inside using the stock foam as doors. The most that would fit using the foam would be 2, but it would be easier to make. I highly recommend that everyone move their servos back one bay as I did. Access is super easy and it just makes sense for CG purposes. It was also really easy.
@ Alpha The foam village usually is good for no wind, but you didn't get to see the Hokaze Destroyer.1 PhotoDon't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Adam, I will be building my second B-26 today and plan to move the servos back as you recommend.Originally posted by quitcherbitchen View PostNo I didn't release the 4 bombs on both flights using one battery. The nose wheel got hung on the plastic cover and I kind of got distracted looking at the plane as it flew around to see if the retract was indeed back in the down position or did I burn the motor on it. If flew around with the gear hung for a few circuits before I noticed it wasn't up. 7 minutes felt like nothing. I was playing with the flaps a bunch too. I don't think the bombs effect CG as they are basically on CG and as long as the plane is slightly nose heavy like mine was to begin with it should be fine. I used 60mm as my CG. @NoDirt. without making custom fiberglass doors there is no hope of fitting 4 bombs inside using the stock foam as doors. The most that would fit using the foam would be 2, but it would be easier to make. I highly recommend that everyone move their servos back one bay as I did. Access is super easy and it just makes sense for CG purposes. It was also really easy.
@ Alpha The foam village usually is good for no wind, but you didn't get to see the Hokaze Destroyer.
Bob
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I finally got up the nerve this weekend to break out the Xacto knife and start cutting the bomb bay (and I was sooo close to flying this thing!)
I'm going the single bay/two bomb route. I raised (lowered?) the tail servos to make some room and cut out some foam. I have a couple servos but no hinges so, not knowing which ones would work best I ordered these two gear door styles to try. If they work I'll let ya'll know.
And thanks to you "early modders" for the tips and photos.2 Photos
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Hello ND..........I was looking at those exact two different hinges on HK for my big Invader and Tigercat projects but of course couldn't find any dimensions.Originally posted by NoDirt! View Postnot knowing which ones would work best I ordered these two gear door styles to try.
Would you possibly snap a pic or two of them with a mm scaled rule next to them in L & W and PM them to me.
Thanx,Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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I am sorry! I forgot that the Dynam instructions are not really helpful... I have my TO Flaps at about 15 degrees...:Cool:Originally posted by capecoral View PostI went to that page BEFORE i posted .. it does not show any settings for flaps. so that is the one i really need from some one that has experiance.
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