is this the part you're all referring to?
Official Freewing 90mm F-4 Phantom II Thread
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It appears that the nose pins for the A-10 at least are now being made of a new material. They seem to be the same metal used in the Spitfire wheel axels instead of the brittle black metal they were made of.The A-10 strut pins are the same way and there was a rash of snapped pins it seemed for awhile and now you don't hear hardly anything about them snapping anymore. A harder than desired landing, even mains first, can still snap the pin as it is hardened and brittle and as such I believe it is designed for that purpose.Comment
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I have not seen a new one so I couldn't tell that is the case. Definitely news to me.Comment
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"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
AMA#116446Comment
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Wow those seats look BEAUTIFUL!!! Did you print or buy?
Current Hanger: FW, F4.F22,F14, Byron T-6, Top Flite P-47, Top Flite P-40, Top RC P-51 H9 P-51, SebArt Avanti, Yellow aircraft Spitfire, T Jeti Extreme Flight EDGE, DS-24 Carbon,Comment
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Wait , just got my answer!
RC Jet Dude.... Which 3D printer do you have? or recommend......
Current Hanger: FW, F4.F22,F14, Byron T-6, Top Flite P-47, Top Flite P-40, Top RC P-51 H9 P-51, SebArt Avanti, Yellow aircraft Spitfire, T Jeti Extreme Flight EDGE, DS-24 Carbon,Comment
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He actually bought the 3DPUP set from Motion.
As for printer recommendations, I suggest a Pruse i3 MK3. It's pricey ($750), but the quality is MUCH better than I've seen with other less expensive printers (like the Anet for example). A friend of mine printed up the F-4 parts for me on his Anet a month ago, then I got my Prusa last week. Huge difference in print quality.PatComment
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Many Thanks brother! :Cool:Current Hanger: FW, F4.F22,F14, Byron T-6, Top Flite P-47, Top Flite P-40, Top RC P-51 H9 P-51, SebArt Avanti, Yellow aircraft Spitfire, T Jeti Extreme Flight EDGE, DS-24 Carbon,Comment
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I'm looking at getting one of these for the hangar, can you post some pictures of the F-4 parts you printed?He actually bought the 3DPUP set from Motion.
As for printer recommendations, I suggest a Pruse i3 MK3. It's pricey ($750), but the quality is MUCH better than I've seen with other less expensive printers (like the Anet for example). A friend of mine printed up the F-4 parts for me on his Anet a month ago, then I got my Prusa last week. Huge difference in print quality.Comment
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I haven’t seen anyone able to duplicate the precision of Freewings prints , particularly the cockpit. Most hobbyist level printers will not be able to come close to the required resolution. The nozzles and ordinance come out “ok” here’s my nozzle prints and a sparrow done on a Cel Robox2 PhotosComment
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What printer are you using?I haven’t seen anyone able to duplicate the precision of Freewings prints , particularly the cockpit. Most hobbyist level printers will not be able to come close to the required resolution. The nozzles and ordinance come out “ok” here’s my nozzle prints and a sparrow done on a Cel Robox
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And as we have now come to expect from FW. The customer reactions drove them (via MRC ;)) to remedy out the brittle ones. :Cool:
I remember how FMS reacted (then/now) :Yawn: to the marketplace concerns. :Straight-Face:
Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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Here's a pic of the nozzles done on the Prusa. I'm printing up the cockpit and ladders now and will post images when done (the right one is painted, the left unpainted, my PLA is silver). Orientation plays a big part in the quality of the print, and I'm working on that now.1 PhotoPatComment








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