Fly, that is just too cool. Welcome!!! Jerry
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Official Freewing 64mm Lippisch P.15 Thread
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Originally posted by FlyGonz View PostWell it wouldn't fly. Maybe the wings were too heavy or just aerodynamics were off. Oh well, worth the try.
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Twin lips work great. I probably should of just done that lol. But in the end it would just roll to the right. I checked CG and weight was even. Controls and trim were fine. But alas... The experiment failed. Time for a new plane lol. The airframe took too much damage to bither repairing.
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Originally posted by FlyGonz View PostTwin lips work great. I probably should of just done that lol. But in the end it would just roll to the right. I checked CG and weight was even. Controls and trim were fine. But alas... The experiment failed. Time for a new plane lol. The airframe took too much damage to bither repairing.
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Originally posted by FlyGonz View PostThat sounds fun! Now I just plan to stick to props. I am an intermediate pilot. I just want a plane with about a 50" wingspan that is faster than my Carbon Cub S. Any suggestions?
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Originally posted by FlyGonz View PostI thought warbirds took a lot of rudder to fly properly? I usually stay away from them for that reason.
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The Lippy (and the ME163 Komet) are flying wings, and flying wings have complicated aerodynamics. If you look at these planes closely you'll see they have a significant amount of reflex (twist) built into the wing, and of course they all have a significant taper and a swept-back design. You can see this kind of design on many RC flying wings as well by looking at Google, but you'll see very few long straight wings. Straight wings don't work well as a flying wing.
Here are a few pics of a few famous Northrop designs, the N9 and the B49.
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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I got another one of these to build over Christmas time. I'm debating whether to keep it stock or not. I have an FMS 3150kv 11 blade unit that needs balancing, but will handle 5s with a good 70A ESC. I have some 5s 1300 packs, which might make it difficult to get CG right, but maybe not impossible? Or an RCBlog 12 blade unit, currently with no motor, that could run a 3-4-5s motor, depending on how crazy I want to go. Maybe the motor from my v1 Habu, with a solid but lightweight 4s pack? The possibilities are endless!
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Purchased two of these and yesterday maidened number one. A few first impression comments...- This thing is small and fast and gets out of sight quickly and easily. Thus, it should come in a highly visible bright color scheme! (and/or in unfinished white so that we can paint it ourselves) - the stock darkish green is hard to paint over.
- The belly should come with a (replacable) indestructo plastic skid.
- Aerodynamically, pulling air from the bottom of the wing is NOT a good idea - air forced to go upwards into the wing inlets reacts on the airframe with a downward (negative lifting) force. Keep the hand holds, but plug them up, EDF-wise, - this should improve the powered flight performance and reduce the downward launching tendency. (Or move the wing EDF inlet holes on top of the wing?)
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All very good points, ridgerunner. Take a look at Team Associated Chassis Protective covers here:
This is an optional chassis protective sheet from Team Associated. This chassis protective sheet measures 6 1/2x18" and can be custom cut to fit your... ASC9787
They’re really strong vinyl and very smooth so they’ll glide across grass or pavement easily.
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Originally posted by ridgerunner View Postthis should improve the powered flight performance and reduce the downward launching tendency.
Insofar at belly scraping, I apply a layer of clear Gorilla tape to the underside, however, now that I've learned how to "plop" the landing, there is little scraping going on. For visibility, I've got fluorescent pink wingtips but even this will disappear at around 300 to 400 feet distance. A solid pink plane can still disappear and turn to grey/black. One just has to learn to fly this plane within a smaller volume of airspace and limit max throttle to high speed maneuvers near the pilot.
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This dip doesn’t just happen on launch, though. With open cheaters, mine would do it when I punch the throttle in a level pass, if I was gliding by with little to no power and go for a punch out. Closing the cheaters by putting a piece of clear tape inside the duct has corrected that for me. Launches are a little easier, and punching out on a level pass doesn’t dip like it used to. Others on RCG have reported a little higher top end from closing the cheaters, but I can’t tell on mine.
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I won't argue with your view point as to why the dip occurs. Early in these threads (on both forums), this "power on" dip was also attributed to the design of the exhaust tube. It caused the thrust to be directed down and when you punched it, the plane would dip. It was quickly discovered that reaming the tail cone on the top 1/2 near the end lip and also adding a small piece of overhead projector sheet in a key location eliminated the "down" direction of the thrust exhaust and hence, no more dip when opening up the throttle, even on a level cruising pass.
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