Freewing 90mm F-22 Raptor - Official Thread

[crxmanpat]

I take it this is what people are using as formation lights? I definitely want them being as we always used them on my plane too! Definitely cheap enough on Amazon, and I ordered them 24hrs ago

Most of what you're seeing on Facebook is a kit that was put together by Jeremy Solt and Tom Mansell. They've created some 3D printed pockets for the lights, and are using lime green LEDs. I got a kit from them and will be putting them in my new F-22.

[adb2@suddenlink.net]

I think you have an Avanti 80mm main strut.

You were correct. I was sent th main gear rather than the nose. I should have caught that. Thank you.

[bill34207]

Three more flights for mine today. (now at 16) This is a combination video of today's 3 flights using the takeoff from the 1st flight since the camera actually followed it through the climb and roll for a change. Main flight from the 3rd flight since it lost tracking less, and landing from the 2nd flight since I finally timed it right for the camera to catch the gear coming down for the gear pass.

https://youtu.be/KIlhHlT0MYs

[Chilly Bear]

I was able to maiden today and completed 4 flights. Everything was great other than I needed some right aileron trim to level it out. The value was 28 on a DX6 but I can't remember how much throw that is. Visually on the trim indicator it isn't a lot. Looking at the control surfaces it looks much bigger. I've no idea why it's needed so far. Everything is set correctly to my knowledge and per the manual. I changed the position of one rudder and one flap slightly with the rod without any change. Whatever it is it's not detectable visually so I'm going to have to start measuring.

If anyone is worried about rough grass strips I can't imagine one being worse than the one I fly out of. I didn't taxi it it's so rough and it performed well.

[adb2@suddenlink.net]

Wondering what color grey you guys are using to touch up the F22? Think a primer grey would blend ?

I have had pretty good results using light ghost grey{ Model Master} and in the cap mix a little flat white with a small brush. Generally it comes out very close.

[Patriotic_Banana]

I was able to maiden today and completed 4 flights. Everything was great other than I needed some right aileron trim to level it out. The value was 28 on a DX6 but I can't remember how much throw that is. Visually on the trim indicator it isn't a lot. Looking at the control surfaces it looks much bigger. I've no idea why it's needed so far. Everything is set correctly to my knowledge and per the manual. I changed the position of one rudder and one flap slightly with the rod without any change. Whatever it is it's not detectable visually so I'm going to have to start measuring.

If anyone is worried about rough grass strips I can't imagine one being worse than the one I fly out of. I didn't taxi it's so rough and it performed well.

I had the exact same value for the aileron trim to the right. Only have the maiden to go off of so far because my airfield is a floodplain and it has been pouring every couple days here in NJ. I adjusted the flaps to match the ailerons a bit and then lessened the amount of aileron trim. Haven't flown it yet but wondering if it will roll to the right again.

From the 5-6 video's I've seen from other pilots, it looked like most of them had a bit of right trim just looking at the ailerons when neutralized. Maybe it is an issue with the airframe itself?

[bill34207]

I was able to maiden today and completed 4 flights. Everything was great other than I needed some right aileron trim to level it out. The value was 28 on a DX6 but I can't remember how much throw that is. Visually on the trim indicator it isn't a lot. Looking at the control surfaces it looks much bigger. I've no idea why it's needed so far. Everything is set correctly to my knowledge and per the manual. I changed the position of one rudder and one flap slightly with the rod without any change. Whatever it is it's not detectable visually so I'm going to have to start measuring.

If anyone is worried about rough grass strips I can't imagine one being worse than the one I fly out of. I didn't taxi it it's so rough and it performed well.

Check your elevators very carefully. It only takes a little out of position between the sides to cause need for aileron trim to counter.
As a side note, mine didn't need any aileron trim at all although it did need several clicks of down trim.

[Flightsss]

Still scratcjing my head in my reciever to use. Anyone know if u can run a AR7350 with a DX6i? Im aware the reciver will work but my question is whether the gyro will 1.be able to be calibrated and 2. Work.

I might jusy give up and pony up for the DX8

anyone wanna buy a DX6i great condition?! Lol

either way i have an ar5500 if anyone is interested...

[xviper]

Still scratcjing my head in my reciever to use. Anyone know if u can run a AR7350 with a DX6i? Im aware the reciver will work but my question is whether the gyro will 1.be able to be calibrated and 2. Work.

I might jusy give up and pony up for the DX8

anyone wanna buy a DX6i great condition?! Lol

either way i have an ar5500 if anyone is interested...

It will work on the first 6 channels. The gyro should also work because it controls AIL, ELE and RUD, which is in the first 6 channels.

[bill34207]

It will work on the first 6 channels. The gyro should also work because it controls AIL, ELE and RUD, which is in the first 6 channels.

But in many cases a gyro needs that 7th channel to turn on/off and or switch between the modes.

[john2kx]

Attaining HIGH ALPHA approaches ...

Guys I have 10 flights thus far. in 2 sessions.... 3 flights session 1 .....and 7 flights in session 2. I have the 6S Version. ( probably should have gotten the 8) :-) .... So, My history. 2nd year on Jets so its quite possible I have my head in my ass on this...so hear goes.

She is set up per the manual. Factory Elevator mixes included, I take off with one notch of flaps and land with 2 notches. I like High rates on Elevator and Ailerons. Rudder stays on low. ( They are powerful) I Separated the nosegear and rudder servos on different channels( Rudder trim only affects nose wheel steering. Plenty of Expo on nose wheel.

I have spent at least 3 batteries exploring the slow flight envelope and she slows down nice through the entire spectrum ( though need power in the turns) ..

I do get a bit of wing rock a slower speeds ( REAL SLOW) Question , Will a gyro help this?


Help me with getting her in to that nose high beautiful sync ( fly the glide) attitude. Are you guys starting to enter that AOA on base or down wind?

Any advice I can get to get better and be more consistent would be great!! BTW love this community!

All my best Jason.

I have just started feeling comfortable exploring the high AOA with this machine and have about 15 more flights than you at this point. Our setup is similar but I run high rates on all my control surfaces. Yes, I would install a gyro if I were you. It really does smooth things out in many areas of the flight. It was the first thing I added after performing maiden and one additional outing.

Since you have already got a feel of high AOA, it didn't take long to figure out you've got to slow down to a certain speed just to get in the groove. What I found I was doing at the early stages was taking too long to get slowed down, passing myself ,and 30 yards later I was able to lift nose and apply power to really get it slowed down. It will take some practice to learn where to start applying brakes. If you come in too hot, adding elevator only makes you climb. Check out the recent video of the guy who makes the slime lights. His entry technique is shown well in this video at about 1:23. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGJO0dDjmfI

Once you get the straight runs figured out, it's time to start practicing flat turns. You may or not want to use one step of flaps. I have tried it both ways and am not certain where I will end up here. One thing for sure, this bird is made for high alpha. I've had many ducted fans and turbines over the years. Nothing has come close to how well this one will do high alpha.

I flipped gyro on and off today as well as tried heading hold while in high AOA. Bottom line, it worked best with gyro on and in normal dampening mode. With gyro off, everything felt too sensitive.

Since you fly Jeti, I would recommend a 7 ch Rex with assist. In one device you have your gyro and rx in one unit. Fully programmable from Tx and you get can use any two virtual channels to turn gyro on/off or set to heading hold.....as well as use anything you want to adjust gain. I use the right slider and work it constantly throughout my flight and a 3 position switch for the off/rate mode/HH. And, still have one channel left over for future additions.

I've really been surprised that even thought I have tried most of my high AOA work two mistakes high, I have not been bit yet. No surprises to date, but I do keep up with wind direction.

Attached pic shows my most current setup. Rex 7 assist rx, 150 amp mui sensor for tracking mah, volts, watts, amps, castle pro bec and can run gps for speed/altitude when needed.

Hope you enjoy the world of high AOA. It's just one area this machine excels in. Big air stuff is just, if not more challenging. Have fun with knife edge flight, slow rolls to write home about, big ass loops, bad ass cobras that will blow your mind....even without TV.

John

[xviper]

But in many cases a gyro needs that 7th channel to turn on/off and or switch between the modes.

"Need" is a matter of what kind of equipment you have and how much you want to be able to choose those options via the TX. If all you've got is 6 channels, it will work. You can default everything to the gyro being "always on" and pre-set one mode (usually "normal" gyro). Even the simplest to the most complex HobbyEagle gyros and the Lemon/Admiral gyro RXs can be set up like that. OR, you can have ON/OFF on one channel that is controlled by a switch and then have another switch control "modes". Channel 8 is usually used for "master gain" that's adjustable "on the fly" using the rotary knob. Of course, this requires a higher channel TX and RX.
In this specific case of the poster's F-22, using what he's got, having the gyro always on is doable. I doubt there is any need to absolutely have any modes other than normal gyro. Setting the gain manually (and by trial and error starting with very low gain) within the RX itself is something that people have been doing for a long time. I'm not so sure that in the case of the F-22, that this encompasses "many cases". After all, he wanted to know if it will work and can it be calibrated with what he's got. Getting a DX8 would be the next evolution in his RC career. If that's what he's going to do anyway, then his questions really don't need to be answered.

[C17loadmaster]

Most of what you're seeing on Facebook is a kit that was put together by Jeremy Solt and Tom Mansell. They've created some 3D printed pockets for the lights, and are using lime green LEDs. I got a kit from them and will be putting them in my new F-22.

Is there any way to purchase that set? it would be a lot easier than my plan.

Thanks,

Jim

[Flightsss]

"Need" is a matter of what kind of equipment you have and how much you want to be able to choose those options via the TX. If all you've got is 6 channels, it will work. You can default everything to the gyro being "always on" and pre-set one mode (usually "normal" gyro). Even the simplest to the most complex HobbyEagle gyros and the Lemon/Admiral gyro RXs can be set up like that. OR, you can have ON/OFF on one channel that is controlled by a switch and then have another switch control "modes". Channel 8 is usually used for "master gain" that's adjustable "on the fly" using the rotary knob. Of course, this requires a higher channel TX and RX.
In this specific case of the poster's F-22, using what he's got, having the gyro always on is doable. I doubt there is any need to absolutely have any modes other than normal gyro. Setting the gain manually (and by trial and error starting with very low gain) within the RX itself is something that people have been doing for a long time. I'm not so sure that in the case of the F-22, that this encompasses "many cases". After all, he wanted to know if it will work and can it be calibrated with what he's got. Getting a DX8 would be the next evolution in his RC career. If that's what he's going to do anyway, then his questions really don't need to be answered.

Thanks for your responses. Im only getting an 8 if it cant be done with the 6. But it sounds like it can on the 6. Im looking for a ‘always on’ gyro setup anyway so this should be fine. I guess you calibrate the gyro setting on your PC then bind? Its hard to find info on the calibration method. I undertand you cant do it on the TX itself.

I need to look into this more, but it looks like u calibrate via phone app or pc and then bind.

Just looking to keep my 6. It works fine. Im oldschool, i keep stuff forever. I have a hobbyking 4s 1300mm J3 with over 1k flights in it for cryin out loud haha

[Flightsss]

Prob closer to 2k actually....

[crxmanpat]

Is there any way to purchase that set? it would be a lot easier than my plan.

Thanks,

Jim

If you are on Facebook, contact Jeremy Solt in Salt Lake City. He is also in a lot of the groups on there (Motion Fan Media, EDF Jet Clubhouse, etc.).

[xviper]

Thanks for your responses. Im only getting an 8 if it cant be done with the 6. But it sounds like it can on the 6. Im looking for a ‘always on’ gyro setup anyway so this should be fine. I guess you calibrate the gyro setting on your PC then bind? Its hard to find info on the calibration method. I undertand you cant do it on the TX itself.

I need to look into this more, but it looks like u calibrate via phone app or pc and then bind.

Just looking to keep my 6. It works fine. Im oldschool, i keep stuff forever. I have a hobbyking 4s 1300mm J3 with over 1k flights in it for cryin out loud haha

I have some experience with the Spektrum 636A but I'm pretty sure the principles are the same. These RXs with built in programmable stabilization generally can be altered after binding. I've done that a few times. Other features like control surface designations should also be changeable after binding but to be sure, do the binding again after adjustments or alterations. I have seen other owners do programming changes between flights without re-binding and the changes do take effect. I find the instructions hard to follow but have a good read anyway.

[C17loadmaster]

If you are on Facebook, contact Jeremy Solt in Salt Lake City. He is also in a lot of the groups on there (Motion Fan Media, EDF Jet Clubhouse, etc.).

Thank you sir!

[downwindleg]

Thank you sir!

So I guess the light strips you posted pictures of don't work for this application? I would like to know sir. You didn't answer my questions about it and then I see your asking about plan B so it seems reasonable to assume it doesn't work? Please advise.

[C17loadmaster]

So I guess the light strips you posted pictures of don't work for this application? I would like to know sir. You didn't answer my questions about it and then I see your asking about plan B so it seems reasonable to assume it doesn't work? Please advise.

Sorry... I didn’t see your comment, busy weekend. I saw other light setups and purchased what I thought they were using. It was under $10 on Amazon and only runs on 3v (2+AA) batteries. I was going to cut it up and solder wires into the sections that were cut to size for the plane. I don’t know very much about EL lighting at all. I bought it the day I posted the picture. I saw some YouTube videos on splicing them so I knew it was possible. Honestly, I don’t know much more. Here is the link to what I bought...

https://www.amazon.com/Lychee-Glowing-Strobing-Electroluminescent-Robbin/dp/B008GXRL1O/ref=asc_df_B008GXRL1O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=230695305278&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15765663407492048346&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032418&hvtargid=pla-393681783255&psc=1