Originally posted by Pizza Guy
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Official Freewing MiG-29 Fulcrum Twin 80mm Thread
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Well, let's see.Originally posted by Pizza Guy View PostYou don't think I know that, dont have to be an a@s. Walmart is being well stocked which most ifs from China, so I was wondering if this was just demand in the RC industry as usual. My sister-n-law died at 66 from covid so you don't have to school me on covid. Happy a healthy day.
Walmart is valued at roughly $1/2 TRILLION. MotionRC not quite so much.
I wonder which company gets priority when there's a serious shortage of freight capacity. Hmmmmm.......
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Beautiful job, your pilot and lit HUD are outstanding, not to mention the fractured camo.Originally posted by Griffon Wings View PostTires look good, the pilot said... just waiting for Callie’s .
i need to switch the stock linkages of the elevator and she’s ready to go up .
no the best not the wroste, once in the air should look good .
thank you again ,Sir with the red eye
What pilot is that and how did you do the painting, with masking tape of some sort? I'd love to see a video of your technique. Didn't know Moscow installed chandeliers for lighting in their hangars, but a nice "sophisticated" touch.
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" Edge
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Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
Beautiful job, your pilot and lit HUD are outstanding, not to mention the fractured camo.
What pilot is that and how did you do the painting, with masking tape of some sort? I'd love to see a video of your technique. Didn't know Moscow installed chandeliers for lighting in their hangars, but a nice "sophisticated" touch. 

Thank you Hugh, nothing crazy at all, just yellow frog, main mistakes come from the poor availability of color bases at the store, so i had to use the eggshells instad of matte. Tape had serious hard time to stick on it, few lines are not that good, i’m honest .
little note if i may on the PRIMER . Please oh please try to use the rustoleum 2x FLAT GRAY .
For any good reason , once you paint does never peel off. I did only 2 jets using specific this gray and i had zero problems.
Painting with a tiny airbrush took forever, especially the white base and especially if you are not good ( I’m learning, not shame on that ) .
this was paint number 7...
i will definitely do the video of the maiden to share.
thank to everyone to like the post, THANK YOU.
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[QUOTE=Griffon Wings;n297211]No, it doesn't look good, it looks great! I put one of their pilots with the moving head in my Corsair and it looks IMO awesome, if not a little big, but I always say go big or go home! I've been trying to come up with a nice pilot for when I do my Mig, but didn't even think about the warbirds pilots, so thanks for the idea, hope you don't mind if I steal it since he looks so good. I didn't have to cut mine down in the Corsair, only had to remove his boots so his bare feet could direct the elevator and rudder servos.Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
Beautiful job, your pilot is that ...
the pilot was a full body from Mr Adam of Warbirdpilots.com . I have to cut it , no thrill on that specially for the price, but does look good.
BTW, I actually always use the Rustoleum flat white primer on my aircraft, so far only about 5 of them that have been a total repaint. I also put a couple coats of Varathane Spar Urethane on after the primer and it seems to help hold the base for masking. Then 3-4 final coats of the Urethane after all paint and graphics are done. I use the white so the final paint coat gives true colors but with your repaint, I see the grey is the perfect base for that. Anyway, can't wait to see the maiden.
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" Edge
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Thanks for the info Rich, I have a similar setup but haven't flown the maiden yet. What is your reasoning for plugging the second BEC lead into the Blue Box, instead of into another receiver port as per the manual with the Castle Pro?Originally posted by RC Rich View Post
I have 40 flights on mine now and am very happy with how it flies. My modifications are a combination of ideas from others that made sense to me.
I replaced the elevator servos with ProModeler DS150CLHV. They are almost a drop in and not reversible. You either need to plug them directly into the Rx like I did and reverse one at the Tx or purchase one of their in-line servo reversers and plug into Blue Box. The elevator servos were moved out, 8mm from the fuselage outside edge for a better pushrod geometry. Any further out risks the pushrods interfering with the elevators. The pushrods were replaced with titanium 4-40 x 4 1/2" and upgraded connectors. The rear half of the rudder was epoxied in place to stiffen the back of the fuselage were the elevator pivots.
The elevator servo extension wires were replaced with heavier gauge to minimize voltage drop and the external BEC was replaced with Castle Creations 20 amp Pro BEC, using the default 5.1 volt output with one plug going to the Blue Box and the second plug into the Rx. Everything is running at 5.1 volts.
I'm flying with 3mm of reflex on the ailerons and flaps and have cut and glued the wing tips to match that reflex.
I'm using the RC Geek afterburner's kit and really like how it looks even in bight sunlight. They are programed to turn on at half throttle and add some aft weight to help with desired CG. My Rx and Cortex gyro are located on the right side pocket by the rear battery. The BEC and afterburner battery (Dinogy 300mah LiPo, 9gr.) are located on the back left side.
With my SMC 5600-60c batteries (800gr each), the rear one all the way back and front as pictured, along with modifications, my CG is 15mm aft of factory mark. Front of elevator is slightly above the bottom of the fuselage for neutral flight. Inverted requires slight push, Knife edge is very good and landings are easy. I take off with halve flaps and land with full flaps. I fly with the control surfaces at the recommended high rates except for the ailerons have 25mm of throw instead of 43mm. Flight time is around 5:00 with mixed throttle and 25-30% battery remaining.
Hope this info helps.
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I don't have a good answer for that except for two things. One, maybe I should have read the BEC manual more carefully and two, I was short on Rx ports. All eight ports on my Rx were already taken and the one lead going to the Rx had to be Y'd into the throttle cable. I thought I read somewhere another person doing it this way and it seemed to make sense to me. Because everything is working good and flying well, I would do it this way again.Originally posted by Legman01 View Post
Thanks for the info Rich, I have a similar setup but haven't flown the maiden yet. What is your reasoning for plugging the second BEC lead into the Blue Box, instead of into another receiver port as per the manual with the Castle Pro?
Does anyone know if plugging one BEC output lead into the Rx and the second into the Blue Box could be bad or a waste of an output power lead schematic wise?
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Doesn't matter.Originally posted by RC Rich View Post
I don't have a good answer for that except for two things. One, maybe I should have read the BEC manual more carefully and two, I was short on Rx ports. All eight ports on my Rx were already taken and the one lead going to the Rx had to be Y'd into the throttle cable. I thought I read somewhere another person doing it this way and it seemed to make sense to me. Because everything is working good and flying well, I would do it this way again.
Does anyone know if plugging one BEC output lead into the Rx and the second into the Blue Box could be bad or a waste of an output power lead schematic wise?4QR1HU9N7
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It will create a ground loop. Whether or not this is a problem depends on your receiver's noise rejection. Do a range check to be sure.Originally posted by RC Rich View Post
Does anyone know if plugging one BEC output lead into the Rx and the second into the Blue Box could be bad or a waste of an output power lead schematic wise?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)
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Doing that is precisely why that particular BEC comes with two outputs in the first place.Originally posted by RC Rich View PostDoes anyone know if plugging one BEC output lead into the Rx and the second into the Blue Box could be bad or a waste of an output power lead schematic wise?
You should certainly never input two different battery sources or two different BECs into the same Rx system (without hardware that is intended for it), but the twin outputs on the CC BEC is intended for exactly that.
Freewing A-10 turbine conversion: http://fb.me/FreewingA10TurbineConversion
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The twin outputs on the CC BEC has common ground. So no.Originally posted by kallend View Post
It will create a ground loop. Whether or not this is a problem depends on your receiver's noise rejection. Do a range check to be sure.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)Freewing A-10 turbine conversion: http://fb.me/FreewingA10TurbineConversion
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