The choice was made by Tom, the owner.
I am not “dismayed”. I jut have a preference.
Also not a newbie.
I am not “dismayed”. I jut have a preference.
Also not a newbie.
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I actually noticed after flying mine hard the other day, that the battery compartment, wires and all were quite warm. then it dawned on me as the gear bay is under the intake on this jet there is zero airflow through the battery bay. On most Freewing models as the gear is ahead of the battery there is air drawn in by the fan through the ESC cable route and as this creates negative pressure under the canopy it draws air in where it can which is usually through the gaps in the gear doors and through the nose gear mount but on this model there is no possibility for that. so I am looking at putting a hole where a gas port would be on the real one just under the canopy and if i can find one small enough a tiny Naca duct under the PIRATE IRST pod.Originally posted by ArnoldT View PostAfter my 6s EF's third flight the connector is so hot it melted the foam and the battery wires are very very hot. I used a clampmeter to do ground static amps test and it's 145A. I understand that static is higher than in-flight amps but my other 90mm EDF is only drawing static 120A. I changed the motor timing to 0 degrees and I still get the same 145A. Did anyone do a ground amps test on your 6s EF? Thanks.
(ignore the blue arrows)
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Motions support is awesome 🤩. They are sending me a new fuselage, which is ok. i will need to transfer the electronics. I would have liked a full new model but hey this is pretty good too 😀Originally posted by Wkhan View Post
wanted to let everyone know of the happy resolution 😀
My suggestion would be to reinforce this area and wanted to know if anyone put a carbon fiber spar or glassing to reinforce.
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Make sure you get decals too.Comment
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hey any one get a decal instruction sheet on where the decals go ?Comment
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Originally posted by TonyTaff View Post
Decked it out in RAF Demo team livery Callie Graphics did a good job. Still waiting on a couple of RAF roundels to cover Spanish ones See the battery bay No wiggle roomComment
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Disaster averted.
Blades came apart on a full power climb. They had some minor chips on the leading edge after sucking down some wires on the maiden and they finally gave out. You can see the moment it happens just before the burners go out.
quick thinking saved the plane, but too much thinking damaged the nose gear due to a half way deployment upon touchdown. Check it out here:
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On my forth take off after three gentle landings ( all on grass ) the nose gear collapsed. The nose gear pin connecting the oleo to retract block had snapped and it looks to be made of very brittle metal, Chinesium I suspect 😀 No replacement listed under Typhoon spares and a general replacement pin that is available is also reviewed as being brittle. As i dont want to be replacing this pin frequently, as to do so requires the removal and disassembly of the whole retract mechanism, has anyone made a replacement part out of a suitable metal and found it to be ok? I dont want the retract ripping out as the original pin is a weak link.Comment
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I had the same issue. On my 3rd flight on grass ops, the pin broke during takeoff! The pin and even the front nose retract is the same as Avanti, although replacing the pin is a pain. And chances are when the pin broke, the remaining pin may have dropped into the retract and jammed the retract motor and burnt it. I find the EF's nose gear's stock spring is too hard and I replaced it with the extra softer spring that comes in the box. Try it and see does it help.Originally posted by Hurridriver View PostComment
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Does anyone know if the little cylindrical weight that comes with the kit can be got separately? I need an extra one.Comment
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Why not use lead shot or BBs? There's nothing magic about the steel cylinder.Originally posted by BenOzzy94 View Post
Or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5899318Comment
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So, holes drilled with a sharpened carbon tube and then have that glued in place to strengthen the hole (pics will be added later). seems to be drawing in a decent amount of air so happy it'll knock a degree or two out of the battery bay. Now to find a Naca duct to go up front.Originally posted by BenOzzy94 View Post
I actually noticed after flying mine hard the other day, that the battery compartment, wires and all were quite warm. then it dawned on me as the gear bay is under the intake on this jet there is zero airflow through the battery bay. On most Freewing models as the gear is ahead of the battery there is air drawn in by the fan through the ESC cable route and as this creates negative pressure under the canopy it draws air in where it can which is usually through the gaps in the gear doors and through the nose gear mount but on this model there is no possibility for that. so I am looking at putting a hole where a gas port would be on the real one just under the canopy and if i can find one small enough a tiny Naca duct under the PIRATE IRST pod.
(ignore the blue arrows)
Just thinking as there are reports of over 140Amps being pulled at peak on these jets should I maybe update my XT90 plugs to EC5 too just to be safe?
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If you have a 3D printer there are a bunch of NACA duct files available on Thingiverse.com, and you can scale them to whatever size you want.Originally posted by BenOzzy94 View Post
I actually noticed after flying mine hard the other day, that the battery compartment, wires and all were quite warm. then it dawned on me as the gear bay is under the intake on this jet there is zero airflow through the battery bay. On most Freewing models as the gear is ahead of the battery there is air drawn in by the fan through the ESC cable route and as this creates negative pressure under the canopy it draws air in where it can which is usually through the gaps in the gear doors and through the nose gear mount but on this model there is no possibility for that. so I am looking at putting a hole where a gas port would be on the real one just under the canopy and if i can find one small enough a tiny Naca duct under the PIRATE IRST pod.
(ignore the blue arrows)
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ATTENTION WARNING !!!
Please check your connection cables from the control board to the receiver. For me, the AILERON connection cables were not crimped, so they were loose! Possibly an isolated case, but a security check is always worthwhile!!!
Bitte überprüft eure Verbindungskabel vom Kontrollbord zum Empfänger. Bei mir waren beim AILERON Verbindungskabel alle Kontake nicht gekrimpt, also lose! Möglicherweise ein Einzelfall, aber ein Sicherheitscheck lohnt sich immer!!!Comment
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A quick tug test to be sure is probably the best course of actionComment
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O wow. Have you told Motion or where you bought your? They should put a not on their web page to alert buyers. The same cable is on a ton of airplanes. This may be a one off but the possibility is huge.
How much force did you use? None of the other ones you had were also bad? Just the one?Comment
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Hello Evan D,
I think the best thing is the quick tug test to be sure. This is the first time this has happened in the many years since I have owned Freewing models. And I have about twenty Freewing models. So I'm assuming it's an isolated case. Nevertheless, you should be careful and check your models thoroughly before the first flight.
But to answer your question: no effort was necessary. You could simply pull the cable from the plugs on both sides. I also took the plugs apart. All crimp contacts were not crimped.
All other cables between board and receiver were tight. As it should be.
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Thank you for the reply!Comment
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Blackjack. Decals by Callie.Comment
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