You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Official Freewing 90mm Eurofighter Typhoon EDF Jet Thread

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ask Motion, they would be the only ones who would know.

    8S can give anywhere from 25-40+% more power over 6S. Both the 6 and 8S set ups for this are new plus each set up has a little different performance in the aircraft due to ducting. Too soon to know for this aircraft and the stock EDF units or even aftermarket ones.

    While the stock 8S will be significantly heavier than the stock 6S it's not an absolute all 8S systems will be heavier. My go to is a Jetfan EDF unit and a HET motor. The EDF unit is much lighter than the metal stock units and the HET motor is about the same weight as the stock FW motors. In this plane the ESC is a 8S ESC so no change there. What's left is batteries. Most people consider a decent 6S 5000 to be around 800g. I have good 5200 6+2 8S pairing that I use in other planes that is 895g and a 5000 6+2 that is 795g. So really at the end of the day not much heavier if at all and I get about 40-45% more power than previous FW 6S set ups and more flight time.

    You can get the same from 10S and 12S choosing the right batteries.

    Originally posted by Chris_WaterGuy View Post
    Forgive me if this question has been addressed before - but does anyone know when the new 8S version will be available at Motion RC Europe, please?
    There were some for pre-order but they are gone.

    Also, what is the performance improvement likely to be over the 6S version, given the increased weight.

    Thanks anyone who can help.​

    Comment


    • Mine is "Out for delivery", Radar-Guy's tail body is printing, the "afterburners" and heavy nozzles are ready. The weather isn't ready, and won't be for at least a week.

      Comment


      • John, have your heavy nozzles been proofed to work, fit and align properly yet? Look like they are going to be a necessary mod on this like on the Gripen and Arrows MiG-29.

        Though mine showed shipped (label printed) and picked up by FedX yesterday it hasn't changed since then and still shows it in Grayslake IL.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
          John, have your heavy nozzles been proofed to work, fit and align properly yet? Look like they are going to be a necessary mod on this like on the Gripen and Arrows MiG-29.

          Though mine showed shipped (label printed) and picked up by FedX yesterday it hasn't changed since then and still shows it in Grayslake IL.
          Mine arrived and I have to say it's a beautiful piece of work. Pity about the CG problem!

          The ordnance is 1000% better than anything I've seen on a FW jet before.

          My nozzle aligns on the remains of the foam inside of the stock nozzle after the foam is cut back to leave a 6mm stub (so as to allow more room for lead if necessary, lead being denser than foam). I will include a 6mm measurement guide to help getting a clean cut in the right place. Each nozzle will hold (at least) 60g of lead, bringing the total weight up to around 100g per nozzle.

          If you need to add tailweight, Radar-Guy's design is probably better if you're using lead strip or foil that can be bent to shape. Mine is designed to hold lead shot or small lead slugs.

          I'll have my final version up on Thingiverse later today.

          I also made Radar-Guy's tail piece. It fits fine, looks good, and has plenty of room for even more lead. The supplied "counterweight" is a steel cylinder, just 20g.

          Comment


          • The Freewing Eurofighter Typhoon 6S - 90mm EDF Jet - PNP is $599 and the Freewing Eurofighter Typhoon 8S High Performance 90mm EDF Jet - PNP is $649.
            My question is what makes the 8S $50 more? Looks like the same motor KV and the ESC are 120amp. The manual for the 6S and the 8S looks like the same manual. So what am I missing?




            Comment


            • The motors are NOT the same kv. The 6s is 3668-1960kv and the 8s is 4075-1350kv. One is designed to be able to survive on 8s, the other likely will grenade within minutes on 8s at full blast. Of course it's the same manual. They aren't going to print 2 kinds of manuals just because the fans are different. Specs on the fans can be easily obtained on the respective product pages. Whether or not this would make a 50 buck difference, who knows. If one doesn't think it's worth the extra 50 bucks, there's the option of not buying it.
              Personally, for my end use, the 8S was well worth the extra money. Had there not been an 8S, I would have purchased an ARF+ and bought the 8S EDF and ESC on my own and I can assure you (having done that many times in the past) the final price tag would have been MUCH more than 50 bucks.

              Comment


              • Thanks, I did miss the different motor sizes. But when you do an ARF+ you can install what you want. I just finished an E-flite 90mm Viper and installed a JP 90mm 8S 12 Blades EDF Ducted Fan with 4250-1330KV Brushless Motor and as you said it was well worth it IMHO.

                Comment


                • Well the 8s gets you chaff and flare dispensers, actual missiles that shoot off, opening canopy, and a whole bunch more…

                  no, it’s just a hotter fan…

                  Comment


                  • As a rough estimate it will take about 70g of weight in the tail to move the CG back by 10mm.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                      Well the 8s gets you chaff and flare dispensers, actual missiles that shoot off, opening canopy, and a whole bunch more…

                      no, it’s just a hotter fan…
                      I got the 8S for the free gumball dispenser. When the center burner comes on, a jawbreaker pops out the back end.

                      Comment


                      • Your nozzles will add 200g with the lead so that should be pretty good.

                        When you put them on thingyverse can you give us a link please?


                        Originally posted by kallend View Post
                        As a rough estimate it will take about 70g of weight in the tail to move the CG back by 10mm.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                          Your nozzles will add 200g with the lead so that should be pretty good.

                          When you put them on thingyverse can you give us a link please?



                          Will do.

                          The exhaust duct does not go down the center of the tailpipe, but is offset by about 2.5 degrees. I'm just printing uo some test nozzles to make sure everything lines up properly. Should be done by midday Friday.

                          Comment


                          • Thanks. With all the hubbabaloo about balance I'm going to do the tail cones last.

                            Comment


                            • Here are some "heavy" nozzles. Printed with 65% infill mine came out to 47g empty each, and each can hold more than 50g of lead.

                              If tailweight is needed for CG positioning, each of these nozzles weighs between 30 and 50 grams depending on how you print it. Each nozzle also has slots for inserting lead shot or small weights, up to 50g per nozzle. IMPORTANT: The duct through the nozzle is offset at the front by some 3mm to match the hole in the foam where it attaches. You will need to ensure that the nozzle is in the correct orientation for the nozzle to align with the hole. Just rotate it until the best fit with the hole is found, mark the position, then glue it to the stub. The cutting guide slips over the foam stub where the stock nozzle would attach, and indicates where to cut so a 6mm foam stub is left to which the new nozzle will be glued. (Shortening the stub leaves more room for weights). I suggest marking the stub so you can correctly align the petals on the new nozzle, since the original alignment grooves will have been removed. Make sure it is securely attached so it can't fall off in flight. I suggest taping the join on the inside both to strengthen the joint and to smooth the airflow.


                              Be aware that

                              (1) it does require cutting the foam stub onto which the stock nozzle is glued. A cutting guide is provided in the file.

                              (2) the duct does not go down the center of the nozzle, but is offset at the front by some 2mm to align with the duct in the foam which is not centered in the stub. This means that you have to make sure the orientation is correct or the nozzle duct and the foam duct will not be aligned..

                              (3) It fits my EF perfectly. This does not mean it will fit yours perfectly.

                              (4) The exit diameter is 55mm, same as the stock nozzle. This amounts to 90% FSA as best I can tell.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                                Thanks. With all the hubbabaloo about balance I'm going to do the tail cones last.
                                Radar-Guy's tailpiece is my first choice for placing tailweight, since it can hold a lot, can easily be opened up for changes, and is better supported by the structure than a glued-on nozzle.

                                Comment


                                • Mine just got delivered! Whoo Hoo!

                                  Comment


                                  • What have missed ? In regards to the cg problem ? I was looking to fly on 6s 5000?

                                    Comment


                                    • So what have I missed in regards to the cg problem? I was hoping to us a 6s 5000?

                                      Comment


                                      • I guess I missed it too, what is the CG problem?. If I purchase one, I also will be using 6S 5000mah pk.

                                        Comment


                                        • I'm not of the impression that "problem" is the correct word to use in this particular subject. So far, only a very few private owners on the east side of the Atlantic have flown this plane. Besides them, we've seen Wes (MotionRC), Arthur-RC and those guys in SE Asia (FNRC videos) fly this plane (and they don't tell us much). The rest of us in N. America who have this plane, are in various degrees of "winter" and can't fly.
                                          I see it as an individual's ability to balance this plane, given the battery they plan to use, taking into consideration how they wish to fly it. Any plane that comes with CG marks or CG measurements printed in the manual, has always been "recommended" balance points. As Wes has already demonstrated, the plane will fly fine at the recommended marks, but he even stated in one of his first videos, that balancing it several mm in front of the marks made for a better flying plane when wind penetration is required. In another video, Wes also said that for slow, "high alpha" flight, being aft of the CG marks is preferred. Arthur-RC has done flights with and without armament and he found that without armament, the plane was severely nose heavy (for his tastes). With armament attached, he found that the balance point was more to his liking 20mm aft of the CG marks, PLUS some weight in the tail. He found this to be the best for high alpha flight.
                                          Then there was some discussion as to the need to relocate the control board so that the battery could go rearward even more to get it to balance for the desired flight characteristics. Mine is 8S and that's a lot of battery weight with my chosen MAH. My twin 4S, 6000mah, HV, Coddar LiPos shoved right back to the rear lip balances the plane, with ordinance, about 10mm aft of the marks. When I use twin 4S, 5300mah, HV, SMC LiPos, I will want to move one of them more aft to balance it the way I might like it to fly. Hard to say because I haven't flown it yet, just playing with it in the basement, driving it back and forth on the floor.
                                          Arthur used a 4000mah, 6s, CNHL in his flights. These weigh ~700g. A 5000mah, 6s,CNHL will weigh well over 800g. A 6000mah, 6s, HV Coddar weighs only 665g. It then becomes a matter of what type of 5000mah battery you choose to use.
                                          We've seen this plane fly fine with a forward CG and we've seen it fly fine with an aft CG. It all depends on what you want to do with the plane and how you wish to fly it. A "problem"? I don't think it's a problem as such.

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X