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Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

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  • Originally posted by EDFjetpilot View Post

    I did a 4 minute scale flight today with the RT 6250/35Cs and batteries came down at 3.85v per cell. I got 30 more seconds of flight time with .02 more volts burned over my last test flight. So I'm feeling more confident a 5 minute scale flight is achievable with these batteries. I'm shooting for a 5 minute flight with 3.78v per cell remaining.

    Sean
    That's encouraging news. How was the battery temp? I don't recall seeing any special cooling mods on your ship so I am curious how they held up?

    Thx,
    Dan

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    • Originally posted by gravity tester View Post

      That's encouraging news. How was the battery temp? I don't recall seeing any special cooling mods on your ship so I am curious how they held up?

      Thx,
      Dan
      Dan,

      Battery temps were great...based on my experience. Started at 93°F (it's been hot down here) and were 109/112°F immediately after the flight. ESCs were 112/114°F. You're correct, no special cooling mods...all stock.

      My test flight profile included a half flap, 75% throttle takeoff, then backed down to 50% throttle (to stay consistent with my testing, I set the throttle and leave it until setting up for landing...so really no throttle management on these flights), perform basic aerobatics, then land with half or full flaps depending on the wind.

      I'm real happy with these RTs...now gotta get some more!

      Sean

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      • Having an issue with the BEC. I plug the BEC (+/-) correctly into the x8r rx with no other connections on the rx and the red led on the BEC nor does the rx's green led (indicating power on). If I unplug the BEC from the rx the BECs red led lights up as normal. I tested the rx with a 2s pack and the rx works as it should (green light indicating correct bind and powered on), plus turned the x9d off and got the usual failsafe red led on the rx. I plugged the throttle lead into channel 1 as usual and plugged the BEC power lead into different empty channels of the rx to test. Even had a Y cable into channel 1 then throttle and BEC power leads into the Y. Not sure what to try next. Had it all powered up and running the other day to program my eepe and set control throws.

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        • Originally posted by Shirty View Post

          Me too mate. I'm having flying withdrawals....

          btw, really keen to see how you go with the light blue. Try as we might, we couldn't even get close to the shade in the pic. (That said, I'm still over the moon with mine). best of luck mate hope it goes awesome for you can't wait to see it. ;)

          Ps: I'm not 100%, but pretty sure you could get the a-10 file for your 4.1. I'm almost positive it has that capability. Email Andrew mate, I've always found his service awesome and I've spoken with him about custom sounds before. (Helped him with some ideas on a heli card a fair while ago when I was looking for a nice turboshaft sound for my big md500e). Worth a shot I reckon.
          Thanks! That gives me hope. I contacted him via email last night. I hope he can provide some options for the sounds. That would be incredible to have available, even if only for the cannon sound. MrRC sound does seem like a great company.

          Your A-10 is looking amazing, and honestly, I like your blue better than what the photos I've seen of the blue used on the larger model. I may purposely alter the blue to get a color different than the larger model just for preference. If I were you, I'd be over the moon with the paint you chose too! :Cool:

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Thomas W View Post
            Having an issue with the BEC. I plug the BEC (+/-) correctly into the x8r rx with no other connections on the rx and the red led on the BEC nor does the rx's green led (indicating power on). If I unplug the BEC from the rx the BECs red led lights up as normal. I tested the rx with a 2s pack and the rx works as it should (green light indicating correct bind and powered on), plus turned the x9d off and got the usual failsafe red led on the rx. I plugged the throttle lead into channel 1 as usual and plugged the BEC power lead into different empty channels of the rx to test. Even had a Y cable into channel 1 then throttle and BEC power leads into the Y. Not sure what to try next. Had it all powered up and running the other day to program my eepe and set control throws.
            Any programming changes on specific channels of the radio that may be altering the way things are operating?

            Try plugging the BEC cable into the RSSI channel port, but he sure of the polarity as usual. Have some of your other cables plugged into the receiver as well. Be 100% that your radio has a specific identity for that receiver number used and no other aircraft has been binded with that identity. Just in case, go ahead and rebind the receiver, but be sure none of your models have that receiver number being used in your programming screen. Also, be sure you are testing the electronics with the LiPo plugged into the connector that has the BEC power leads attached to it (and with the BEC cable connected to the receiver in a safe unused channel port).

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            • Well damn, put a digital meter on the output of the stock BEC, and am only getting 3.3 volts out of it. An x8r requires 4-10 volts to run. Guess its better that it crapped out now instead of in the middle of a flight. I do have a spare CC BEC 2.0 that I can install.

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              • 2nd flight now complete. I got the dreaded bounce on an otherwise perfect landing. Different field, hit a bump and nothing I could do to stop it. 4 bounces. After I taxied back the nose gear trailing link was jammed into shock strut inward. So I'll have to figure that out. Flew the FMS also with a perfect greaser landing. Breezy and a little gusty down the runway. All in all, a good day. No videos this time and the Model Sounds Inc system worked great.

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                • Originally posted by Ironfrog25 View Post
                  Hi I finally got my A-10 together and decals applied except the nose art. I was hooking all the leads to to receiver and centering all the control surfaces and notices a few things. First thing was I had to unscrew a good bit of the linkage from the ball link to center the control surfaces. There is only about 1/4 inch of thread in some linkages which I think should be fine. Another thing I noticed was that one of my flaps when lowered was lower then the other three. At half flaps it would be about 1/16 inch and at full flaps it would be about 1/4 inch. I am thinking this could be due to servo arm not being centered in the same position as other servos. Would this cause a problem when landing? I really don't want to drill a small in wing on an angle to remove servo arm but if that is only way to fix it guess I have too

                  Here is the report on my fixes to the above post. First I had to move the flap servo arm about 3 teeth on the servo. I had to cut a v shaped notch in wing to get my screw driver in there to loosen it then glued it back in place. Now the flaps match when lowered. As for the gear being wobbly all I had to do was loosen the 4 screws that hold the plate to main retract and slide it forward to make gear snug. I can see this coming loose again in the future after a few landing. Thanks for your replays and suggestions on fixing these minor things.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by EDFjetpilot View Post

                    Dan,

                    Battery temps were great...based on my experience. Started at 93°F (it's been hot down here) and were 109/112°F immediately after the flight. ESCs were 112/114°F. You're correct, no special cooling mods...all stock.
                    Sean,
                    Thanks very much for the info. Guess I should have gone ahead and grabbed some. They are out of stock at Jet Werx. :Crying2: Looking forward to giving that a try soon.

                    Cheers,
                    Dan

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by gravity tester View Post

                      Sean,
                      Thanks very much for the info. Guess I should have gone ahead and grabbed some. They are out of stock at Jet Werx. :Crying2: Looking forward to giving that a try soon.

                      Cheers,
                      Dan
                      Dan,

                      I highly recommend these RT 6250/35Cs. I've got 2 still coming in the mail, but also noticed this morning RC Jet Werx was out of stock when I went to order more.

                      Don't tell anyone, but my math on these tests says a 6+ minute scale flight is possible. I don't completely trust the math, so I'll keep pushing the timer to see how far I can get.

                      Sean

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by gravity tester View Post

                        Sean,
                        Thanks very much for the info. Guess I should have gone ahead and grabbed some. They are out of stock at Jet Werx. :Crying2: Looking forward to giving that a try soon.

                        Cheers,
                        Dan
                        I'm kind of partial to these in my A-10 http://www.genstattu.com/gens-ace-55...eans-plug.html
                        Good for a full 4 minutes of flight without being hot and the model balances well with them. Best of all, they are in stock and even on sale at the moment.
                        My YouTube Videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrz...4Q-xrOOtP2C-8w

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                        • Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post
                          Does anyone know where this part goes? It came off my A-10 after the "Bucking Bronco From Hell" landing last weekend and I have no clue... :Silly:

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	unnamed (5).jpg Views:	1 Size:	275.2 KB ID:	88614
                          GRRR!!!!!

                          I went to change the receiver in my A-10 tonight and when I went to test everything my nose gear wouldn't fully extend. Turns out that this piece is missing, I've had 10 flights and apparently on the last one it went bye bye.

                          I was really looking forward to flying this tomorrow but now I'll have to wait and order a replacement on Monday.

                          There have been numerous reports of these coming off I think something more than glue is needed to secure it.

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                          • Where exactly is this piece located? Picture of it in place?

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                            • Originally posted by xviper2 View Post
                              Where exactly is this piece located? Picture of it in place?
                              I concur!
                              My YouTube RC videos:
                              https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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                              • It attaches to the front landing gear door. As the landing gear comes down it pushes against this plastic piece pushing the door open and is pulled shut by a spring. I put a screw top and bottom through the door to hold it on and then painted the screws.

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                                • I got some Testers plastic model cement and went around the edges where it sits against the gear door and seems to be working well. It pretty much fuses the plastic pieces together...

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                                  • M2x6mm socket head screws with nyloc nuts.

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                                    • Jet Junkie, Thanks for the information. It was very helpful.

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                                      • Update, yesterday I finalized a small production run for oleo main struts and trailing link nose struts, to be sold as separate Options. Y'all can mix and match to your heart's desire. Pricing will be similar to comparably sized struts from Freewing plus a marginal percentage, even though this is a significantly smaller batch than our normal quantities. Production and overseas shipping times as they are, though, these won't arrive for 6-8 weeks, or so.

                                        We'll also be adding different spring sets as Options. Material options are limited in these quantities, but it's at least an alternative option for those of you wanting different rebound or tension values.

                                        More info will be published as we get final photos, pricing, ETA, but for now, you heard it here first.
                                        Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

                                        Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

                                        Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

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                                        • Had a friend notice that the spring that closes the nose door was twisting the gear as it retracted casing a bind. He stretched the spring a bit and problem solved.

                                          Mike
                                          \"When Inverted Down Is Up And Up Is Expensive\"

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