Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[janmb]

Dave,

No, it's the Castle Pro 20A UBEC:

https://www.motionrc.com/collections...ns-20a-bec-pro

They are brilliant. Very cheap insurance against power dips.. Which, especially on older spektrum receivers could be quite disasterous due to long reboot.

[Pogo]

Thanks for the pointer OV10! I thought I was going crazy with the loose fit, but your explanation makes sense now. this is my second FW bird with bad grub screw fitment, and the second time my allen keys have slipped and rounded it just enough to require an extractor tool. I'll try out the soldering iron trick before I use the extractor on this one.

I got a lifetime supply of different sized grub screws from HK awhile back, as well as their Turnigy drivers, and the quality and fit is very good (and I'm not big on a lot of HK stuff). No more slipping allen wrenches! :Cool:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-v2-metric-hex-driver-2-5mm-x-60mm.html

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/metal-grub-screw-m4x5-10pcs-set.html

Tom

[Justwingit]

I know there's already been a video posted of this....

BUT....this is EPIC!!!!

FIVE Freewing A-10's FILL THE SKY over Mesa Arizona...WHOOT!!!

Turn up the volume on this one....the sound of all those EDFs at once is AMAZING!

Enjoy the SPECTACLE :Cool:!!!

[crxmanpat]

Great vid John! It was fun doing that formation flight.

[Shirty]

Thanks also for the pic. So, just checking, but the scissors part goes forward then? This might be why my mate said he had to cut the triangle and door, think his might be backwards...?

[RCAV8R]

I got a lifetime supply of different sized grub screws from HK awhile back, as well as their Turnigy drivers, and the quality and fit is very good (and I'm not big on a lot of HK stuff). No more slipping allen wrenches! :Cool:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...mm-x-60mm.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/metal-gr...10pcs-set.html
Tom

This is a great fix Tom...thanks! So M4 = 2.5mm? Rob

[janmb]

This is a great fix Tom...thanks! So M4 = 2.5mm? Rob

M4 only refers to the threads. Not sure there's any given correlation between threads and wrench size.

[Pogo]

This is a great fix Tom...thanks! So M4 = 2.5mm? Rob

As Janmb says- not necessarily. I 'd just order a variety of sizes of grub screws and keys or drivers (if you need them) and you'll be set for any scenario down the road. Replacing the stock (cheese-like) grub screws that come in these (and many other) retracts makes things a whole lot easier.
Tom

[crxmanpat]

I have this small screwdriver bit set that I use all the time for my models. It comes with allen, torx, and star bits, as well as other normal bit types. I've found that if a grub screw starts to round out on the allen bit, one of the torx or star bits can get in there and work it loose. I love this kit, one of the best Christmas presents I ever got!

https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-VCOO-Precision-Extension-Maintenance/dp/B01AL7600A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519484946&sr=8-3&keywords=screwdriver+bit+set+small

[OV10]

M4 only refers to the threads. Not sure there's any given correlation between threads and wrench size.

There is a correlation. There are international engineering standards in place such as ISO, DIN and ANSI that regulate dimensions and metal grades.
Without referencing numerous charts, I'll just list the wrench size used for the thread size of the set screw(what a lot of modelers call grub screws) commonly used in our hobby.
Be advised that socket flat/button/cap drives have different wrench size standards(they are a little larger) than set screws.

Screw / Wrench
3mm / 1.5mm
4mm / 2mm
5mm / 2.5mm
6mm / 3mm
8mm / 4mm

[RCAV8R]

Thanks guys! I've had a lot of strut changes with my FW Stinger 90 and in the process went through several stripped set screws...particularly the little one that fixes the pin to the retract. This helps and I will get after market screws to replace them all! Rob

[janmb]

There is a correlation. There are international engineering standards in place such as ISO, DIN and ANSI that regulate dimensions and metal grades.
Without referencing numerous charts, I'll just list the wrench size used for the thread size of the set screw(what a lot of modelers call grub screws) commonly used in our hobby.
Be advised that socket flat/button/cap drives have different wrench size standards(they are a little larger) than set screws.

Screw / Wrench
3mm / 1.5mm
4mm / 2mm
5mm / 2.5mm
6mm / 3mm
8mm / 4mm

Awesome - good to know

[RCAV8R]

So I just got back from my local hobby store...bought DuBro set screws and the guys sold me on a set of MIP Hex drivers. They are mostly car guys, but swore by these. They are on Horizon's site, and probably elsewhere.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/metric-...283%29-mip9502

I did some research...a lot of great reviews on these drivers!

http://www.miponline.com/store/mip_thorp_precision_hand_tools_best_hex_driver.html

Rob

[crxmanpat]

Glad I kept all the parts from my crashed A-10. Went to assemble the tail section on the replacement today and discovered that the factory had used the same two screw covers on the horizontal stab. There are actually two different styles of covers; one is shorter than the other. So I just popped the correct one off my crashed plane, popped the wrong one out of the new plane, and switched it out for the correct cover.

I'm down to hooking up the control surfaces, and waiting on some decals from Callie (I'm doing the same Davis-Monthan 357th Dragons as on the last one, but I'm going non-scale with nose art and using the one in the pic called Metal Dragon). All the nomenclature decals are on, all the weathering has been done, and she has a coat of clear Dullcote. I also swapped the stock nose gear out for the trailing link version, added the cooling vent (F-5 cheater grate), opened up the refueling port to allow air in, and put the rear antennas in the scale location. I should get her in the air next weekend.

By the way, anyone wanting to take out the stock UBEC and add a Castle CC20 Pro, DO NOT solder it up prior to running the wiring through the plane. The CC20 will not fit through. Don't ask me how I know. :Silly:

[Shirty]

Cool pat, could you post a pic of the nose gear install please mate? Thanks.

[crxmanpat]

The trailing link nose gear install is very straightforward. Take the retract unit out, loosen the two grub screws in the strut, remove the old strut, install the new strut and tighten the grub screws. Install the unit back in and you're done! Others had talked about cutting the door or removing the white plastic door guide, but I got a lot of flights in on my first plane after installing the new TL nose gear and saw no issues.

I also added a shot of how I placed the rear antennas to look more scale.

[Shirty]

Thanks heaps mate. That's awesome cheers.

[Helmsman52]

Free decals. Just pay for postage.

[dkalwishky]

If no one else has asked, I'd take them. I'll send you a PM.

[crxmanpat]

One thing I noticed on my new one is that all decals are now water slide. No more peel and stick transfers.