Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[Dirty Dee]

Getting close to finishing. Cant wait for some fully loaded flights at Jet Jam :a10

[fhhuber]

Originally posted by crxmanpat View Post

As far at RTs go, my 5800s test out at a true 22C, which means they'll put out about 128A constant without damage to the packs.

Sorry if this is a dumb question. How do you do these calculations?

Calculated max current (by battery rating) is: capacity * C rating = current.
2000 mah * 20C = 40000 ma = 40 amps (1 amp/1000 ma =1 )

But crxmanpat is doing practical testing to find the REAL max current the batteries can deliver.
He's doing a test that loads the battery and watches the % voltage drop and cell heating among other factors to see what is actually safe.
But max safe is not max for best battery life... you can pull max safe and destroy a pack in as little as 5 cycles.
The tests can give an indication of max you can pull and get decent battery life also.

There are a few version of tests for max current, but all will at least involve watching voltage drop under load and the heat generated (temperature rise) in the cells.

[crxmanpat]

Sorry if this is a dumb question. How do you do these calculations?

If you're asking how I figure out the true C rating of a pack, I use this:

https://www.progressiverc.com/universal-esr-analysis-meter.html

This meter measures the IR of each cell individually and tells you the true C rating of each. I then use the lowest C rated cell as the rating of the pack. I then determine how many amps the pack can put out, and use it in planes that pull less amps at WOT. The A-10 pulls less than 100 amps, and these 5800 35C packs have worked great in it. In over 2 years of flying using this method for all my planes, I've not damaged a single pack, and they continue to perform flawlessly.

[crxmanpat]

Getting close to finishing. Cant wait for some fully loaded flights at Jet Jam :a10

Wow, that is some high quality work! My Prusa arrives tomorrow. Can't wait to get it up and running so I can do some of this stuff for myself.

[sam51401]

I’m having small success on searching this thread on the 90mm upgrade but am asking for feedback on any flight time increase potential. My comparison is on a WOWPlanes A10 that I used ARC 1600kv in HET 90mm with 100A Castles an 5500ma twin packs. I got 6min flights on this 20lb foamy. I searched the MRCsite for the nacelle package and it is not listed. I did come across a pair of 3748-1500 FW fan units for a two for one deal so i just need the nacelles which are still available. I will be at the Jet Jam as it’s our club hosting so look me up. Thanks

[Spookyeng]

Hello Guys,

First post and I hope many more! I mainly post on RCSB and Flying Giants, but I really like this forum and have been reading many of the threads, so I figured I would post here as well! I bought my first plane from Motion RC, I have many more more that I want to buy too! I hope to get it up and flying in the next week or two, just need to install linkages, final setup and balance. Got the A-10 and really love it, it has been one of my favorite jets since I was stationed at Pope AFB from 1996-2004 as a Flight Engineer on the C-130E.

I tried to go through all 417 pages before posting, but got through half and did not see anything similar to the battery tray I finished designing for the A-10, so hope you guys don't mind me sharing. If there is already something like this in the thread, please let me know, I don't want to step on anybody. Anyway. I have never run a BEC and like to have a separate power system for the servos and in this case, gear and lights too. So I decided to use a Fromeco Wolverine switch and two Turnigy 2300 mAh pack for the servos, RX and accessories. It is also nice to have everything secure and functional in the airplane. Plus I did not think the original aft battery tray was very robust!

I took some measurements and spent some time in CAD designing up the tray. I have 60W laser cutter and CNC router, and decided to do this on the Laser Cutter, since I am only using 1/8" ply. The new battery tray is very strong and worked out well. I glued the tray together with Vogelsang Aeroscale Aerobond white glue and it is my favorite wood glue on the market! I glued the completed tray into the plane with Hysol 9462 and it is a tight fit, but worked out great. For anti-slip, I use tool box liner glued down with 3M 77 and I have been using that method on all my larger electric airplanes with great success, so I did not see any reason to change. Once the batteries are strapped down they are both very secure and will not move. I also made a small removable tray for the Wolverine switch and it is also a tight fit, but liked the way it turned out

Overall it did not add much weight, the tray with all hardware was only 3.3 ounces and the tray for the switch was 1,0 ounce, forgot to take a picture of that. I plan on getting another A-10 so I can paint in the Arctic Camo Scheme and will design all these items in one piece the next time, along with organizing the wires better! I hate looking at the wires on the other side of the switch tray, but not a lot of options unless you want to move a bunch of stuff around. But I have a lot of ideas after the first one! Also added 1/4" x 1/4" square carbon rod for extra strength along the front half of the fuse and there is a nice slot already in the airplane as you guys already know!

I think the pictures explain it well, I try to design everything tab and lock, so I do not solely rely on the glue and that is my preferred way to design part. I know a boring detail, but thought I would share and if you guys have any questions, please do not hesitate to post or PM me. Thanks and looking forward to flying the A-10!

I do have one question as the manual does not mention it, or I missed it, balance with gear up or gear down?

Edit:

Sorry, I do not know why the pictures got all mixed up, I posted them in order. Next time I will upload them one at a time!

Jason

[Elbee]

[QUOTE=Spookyeng;n136396]Hello Guys, First post and I hope many more!

Jason, A belated welcome to Hobby Squawk. Like your battery box. CG balance with gear down and all ordinance attached. Best, LB

[Spookyeng]

[QUOTE=Elbee;n136413]

Hello Guys, First post and I hope many more!

Jason, A belated welcome to Hobby Squawk. Like your battery box. CG balance with gear down and all ordinance attached. Best, LB

Thanks! I will balance with gear down and I was planning on flying the first couple of flights with no pylons or ordnance,. But looking forward to adding all the ordnance!

[RCAV8R]

So today I finally got bit by the dreaded "bounce"! Nothing to blame it on...I confess I have been struggling to feel comfortable with landings, and probably too tentative as a result. There was a strong crosswind, and I elected to keep flaps in, but I don't think that had anything to do with it. These were flights 22 and 23. Though I've had a few hard drops and bounces, there's never been anything I wasn't able to recover from. But today, I pulled back on throttle too much, it dropped, and then when it bounced it stalled big time. There was no recovery and it dropped again, hard! I bent one main and shattered the NG retract and broke the plastic where the retract screws go in. It certainly could have been a lot worse, but it was humbling. I have thought about landings more than I care to share, and probably to a fault (after the bounce, when I knew I had to get her back down with one shot, I landed perfectly). I'm loving the process!! Rob LOL

[RCjetdude]

Hello Guys,

First post and I hope many more! I mainly post on RCSB and Flying Giants, but I really like this forum and have been reading many of the threads, so I figured I would post here as well! I bought my first plane from Motion RC, I have many more more that I want to buy too! I hope to get it up and flying in the next week or two, just need to install linkages, final setup and balance. Got the A-10 and really love it, it has been one of my favorite jets since I was stationed at Pope AFB from 1996-2004 as a Flight Engineer on the C-130E.

I tried to go through all 417 pages before posting, but got through half and did not see anything similar to the battery tray I finished designing for the A-10, so hope you guys don't mind me sharing. If there is already something like this in the thread, please let me know, I don't want to step on anybody. Anyway. I have never run a BEC and like to have a separate power system for the servos and in this case, gear and lights too. So I decided to use a Fromeco Wolverine switch and two Turnigy 2300 mAh pack for the servos, RX and accessories. It is also nice to have everything secure and functional in the airplane. Plus I did not think the original aft battery tray was very robust!

I took some measurements and spent some time in CAD designing up the tray. I have 60W laser cutter and CNC router, and decided to do this on the Laser Cutter, since I am only using 1/8" ply. The new battery tray is very strong and worked out well. I glued the tray together with Vogelsang Aeroscale Aerobond white glue and it is my favorite wood glue on the market! I glued the completed tray into the plane with Hysol 9462 and it is a tight fit, but worked out great. For anti-slip, I use tool box liner glued down with 3M 77 and I have been using that method on all my larger electric airplanes with great success, so I did not see any reason to change. Once the batteries are strapped down they are both very secure and will not move. I also made a small removable tray for the Wolverine switch and it is also a tight fit, but liked the way it turned out

Overall it did not add much weight, the tray with all hardware was only 3.3 ounces and the tray for the switch was 1,0 ounce, forgot to take a picture of that. I plan on getting another A-10 so I can paint in the Arctic Camo Scheme and will design all these items in one piece the next time, along with organizing the wires better! I hate looking at the wires on the other side of the switch tray, but not a lot of options unless you want to move a bunch of stuff around. But I have a lot of ideas after the first one! Also added 1/4" x 1/4" square carbon rod for extra strength along the front half of the fuse and there is a nice slot already in the airplane as you guys already know!

I think the pictures explain it well, I try to design everything tab and lock, so I do not solely rely on the glue and that is my preferred way to design part. I know a boring detail, but thought I would share and if you guys have any questions, please do not hesitate to post or PM me. Thanks and looking forward to flying the A-10!

I do have one question as the manual does not mention it, or I missed it, balance with gear up or gear down?

Edit:

Sorry, I do not know why the pictures got all mixed up, I posted them in order. Next time I will upload them one at a time!

Jason

Very clean install Jason! Great idea and welcome to HobbySquawk!

[RCjetdude]

So today I finally got bit by the dreaded "bounce"! Nothing to blame it on...I confess I have been struggling to feel comfortable with landings, and probably too tentative as a result. There was a strong crosswind, and I elected to keep flaps in, but I don't think that had anything to do with it. These were flights 22 and 23. Though I've had a few hard drops and bounces, there's never been anything I wasn't able to recover from. But today, I pulled back on throttle too much, it dropped, and then when it bounced it stalled big time. There was no recovery and it dropped again, hard! I bent one main and shattered the NG retract and broke the plastic where the retract screws go in. It certainly could have been a lot worse, but it was humbling. I have thought about landings more than I care to share, and probably to a fault (after the bounce, when I knew I had to get her back down with one shot, I landed perfectly). I'm loving the process!! Rob LOL

Yeah, you bent her good Rob LOL Looks very repairable though.

[Spookyeng]

Very clean install Jason! Great idea and welcome to HobbySquawk!

Thanks! I am glad to be part of this community! I am looking forward to flying the A-10.

On another noter, If anybody wants the BEC or the graphics package from the airplane and is willing to pay the postage, I will give them to you. I did my livery in the Idaho ANG A-10 from Callie. I would hate to see them just sit here and go to waste or get thrown out. PM me if you want them and I can get them in the mail to you. Thanks.

Jason

[Spookyeng]

Thanks! I am glad to be part of this community! I am looking forward to flying the A-10.

On another noter, If anybody wants the BEC or the graphics package from the airplane and is willing to pay the postage, I will give them to you. I did my livery in the Idaho ANG A-10 from Callie. I would hate to see them just sit here and go to waste or get thrown out. PM me if you want them and I can get them in the mail to you. Thanks.

Jason

BEC and Graphics have been claimed, so they are no longer available. Thanks!

Jason

[dahawk]

RCA,
Feel your pain. Like the UConn women’s b-ball team, I went 29-0 before my first bounce and snapping the NG pin.

Now with the Tired Iron switcheroo mains mod and the new trailing link NG, no issues.

[janmb]

Getting close to finishing. Cant wait for some fully loaded flights at Jet Jam :a10

Looks ridiculously good. Can't wait to snatch your maverick design.

Started another attempt at a TER myself, but finding aesthetic modelling really challenging tbh. I'm making all sorts of functional, complexe parts all the time, but as soon as it needs to look good I'm kinda useless lol

[Grossman56]

Hey Jason, welcome to the Squawk first off!

That's some great information, thanks for posting it!

Grossman56

[Spookyeng]

Hey Jason, welcome to the Squawk first off!

That's some great information, thanks for posting it!

Grossman56

Thanks for the welcome! More then happy to share. I am always thinking about ways to make things more functional and will keep sharing if that is OK. I just finished up a Lipo Caddy, this one is for a eight batteries, so I call this one the 8-Pack! It is all tab and lock as well. I am happy with it, but will probable redesign the center center section for 1/4" Baltic birch, instead of the 1/8". No problems with strength to hold the batteries with 1/8", but I think the 1/4" ply would feel more solid! I know not related to this airplane, but here are a couple pictures.

[crxmanpat]

I did something similar a few years ago. Mine holds eight packs of up to 8S, then three 3S (or 4S if they are thin) packs on each end. And then it has a cover over the main packs. Very handy, especially when going to events, and I have 3 that I use regularly. I used 1/4" MDF for material, and a friend laser cut them for me.

[rlcamden]

So, two things. First, has anyone a spare wing rail mount for the weapons pilons they are willing to part ways with. Motion happens to be out of stock, and I am willing to pay the cost for shipping if so. Second, I know this has been posted many times, but I am unable to find the exact post. I am at the point of repairing my Hawg from the power line touch and go and am doing my first airbrush touch up. The question is what is recommended to mix Home Depot paint to thin it down and to what ratio? I can paint a car with no problems, but this will be my first attempt painting foam using HD acrylic.

[Spookyeng]

I did something similar a few years ago. Mine holds eight packs of up to 8S, then three 3S (or 4S if they are thin) packs on each end. And then it has a cover over the main packs. Very handy, especially when going to events, and I have 3 that I use regularly. I used 1/4" MDF for material, and a fried laser cut them for me.

That is an awesome Lipo Caddy! Great design!