Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread

[Helmsman52]

It shouldn't do that. It should be able to full collapse and spring right back, even with the weight of the plane on it. There should already be a spring inside the cylinder. Check to see if there is one in there. When you compress it by hand, does it feel "sticky"? Something is binding it. I suggest you use a drop or two of machine oil or 3in1 oil and work it into the sliding plunger part. Also put some oil on those links that need to rotate on the pins. Also check to make sure there is no screw on the side of the cylinder that might be screwed in too much and it's touching the piston that goes in and out. I don't have mine handy to know if there is a screw or not. I'm guessing based on another trailing link suspension where there is a screw that goes into the side of the cylinder. Once loosened a bit, the piston goes in and out freely. If there is a screw, put it back in with some FoamTac on the threads so it won't fall out.

It feels like... once compressed to a certain point it kinda stays holds its angle in a way but will eventually return. Yes it kinda sticks and by no means a smooth operation. I guess I’ll take her apart and see what’s really going on in side tomorrow. Not a good thing after 4 flights though.

[Shirty]

Cool, glad you got it sorted mate. Take offs should be a lot easier without the nose-down pitch you were getting.

[Pogo]

Helmsman (Bill), I think the problem is there is very little of the inner tube inside the outer when the strut is fully extended, hence the binding. I've had mine completely apart, lubed it etc. and I'm afraid it's just not designed right. I'm going to take it apart again and shorten the spring a couple of coils so the inner tube is engaged a little more.:Angry:
Tom

[Helmsman52]

Helmsman (Bill), I think the problem is there is very little of the inner tube inside the outer when the strut is fully extended, hence the binding. I've had mine completely apart, lubed it etc. and I'm afraid it's just not designed right. I'm going to take it apart again and shorten the spring a couple of coils so the inner tube is engaged a little more.:Angry:
Tom

Your right about the design. Here’s what I just did. I added a compression spring. Then I used marvel oil on all hinges and piston.
Hell its a lot smoother and you won’t have to do the rear gear door mod because of the added spring. It doesn’t look scale but hey it works!

[downwindleg]

Hey guys, can someone please remind me where the esc wire that wraps around the green nut plugs into? Can't find it in the instructions.
Brad

[RCjetdude]

Hey guys, can someone please remind me where the esc wire that wraps around the green nut plugs into? Can't find it in the instructions.
Brad

I can't remember, are there two or just one of the green ferrites?

[xviper]

This model utilizes an external BEC and has the twin wires in it (red and ground) and wraps around the green ring. This BEC is wired directly to one of the battery leads and does not have any connection to the ESC. It powers the RX and can go into any empty port on the RX. After binding, it can go into the bind port. The one labelled "throttle" goes into the throttle port and comes from the ESC. It has 3 wires in it and has no green ring.

[themudduck]

Just for fun I'd like to share a couple of aerial videos from this past Sunday. These were taken using a Mobius camera that is mounted to the inboard weapons station on the left side. The first one features a bouncy takeoff - I was dealing with a crosswind... so on the second flight I took off in the other direction. Both videos feature some aerobatics and some great views of the grass field that I fly from. Its surrounded by a farm field, which was being plowed this day. On the second video the terrific landing ended with a very sharp turn to avoid running off into the field.

These flight videos show how much abuse the landing gear takes even on a relatively smooth grass runway, its quite remarkable.
By the way, this is the original stock gear.

Sortie #1

Sortie #2

[RCAV8R]

Interesting perspective Marc! Have you considered going to the trailing link NG? That seems like it would be a better match for your field. I have a new one you could have for a discount if you're interested! Rob

[Sky Wolf]

Just for fun I'd like to share a couple of aerial videos from this past Sunday. These were taken using a Mobius camera that is mounted to the inboard weapons station on the left side. The first one features a bouncy takeoff - I was dealing with a crosswind... so on the second flight I took off in the other direction. Both videos feature some aerobatics and some great views of the grass field that I fly from. Its surrounded by a farm field, which was being plowed this day. On the second video the terrific landing ended with a very sharp turn to avoid running off into the field.

These flight videos show how much abuse the landing gear takes even on a relatively smooth grass runway, its quite remarkable.
By the way, this is the original stock gear.

Sortie #1

Sortie #2

Very nice and secluded grass field! Nice flights Mudduck!

[themudduck]

Interesting perspective Marc! Have you considered going to the trailing link NG? That seems like it would be a better match for your field. I have a new one you could have for a discount if you're interested! Rob

I have been resistant to changing since I've had very good results with the original gear on my landings. I fly on "pavement" (Geotex) as well as grass.. In two years that was literally the first time I'd ever had a bouncy-bounce situation and it was on takeoff, which really caught me off-guard. I certainly don't mind the idea of trying something that might help! I've seen that the trailing-link nose gear is highly recommended. Please send me a PM and we'll make a deal! thanks, Marc

[downwindleg]

This model utilizes an external BEC and has the twin wires in it (red and ground) and wraps around the green ring. This BEC is wired directly to one of the battery leads and does not have any connection to the ESC. It powers the RX and can go into any empty port on the RX. After binding, it can go into the bind port. The one labelled "throttle" goes into the throttle port and comes from the ESC. It has 3 wires in it and has no green ring.

Thanks xviper. Tried to bind it last night which worked but the motors are still beeping. I'll try putting the BEC wire into the bind port as you say and see if that makes the difference. Otherwise I can't figure out why the motors are beeping......not happy somehow.

[gravity tester]

Hi Brad-
Not sure if this is helpful or just noise but maybe a reference point for you. I had a similar issue last night in setting up my #2 A-10 to the point where I woke up this AM still hearing beeping. I am using a new DX18 and 6 ch. Rx and admittedly, I seriously suck at it after so many years of less complex radios. I have to carry the manual around on a string wherever I go and I am learning and relearning every time I am in the shop or at the field. Anyway, to get to the point, I was trying to set up the throttle and associated throttle cut feature but all I got was beeping (the BEC wire was connected in the bind port) no matter what I tried or what position the switch was in. Even tried reversing the throttle command, nothing. I had initially tied the throttle cut to a two position switch (H) on the top of the radio. After several minutes of muttering "what the....?", in desperation I tried changing the throttle cut to the "F" switch, a 3 position on the front of the radio and like magic, the beeping stopped and everything works perfectly after calibrating (throttle stick all the way forward, then back to idle).

I have already admitted ignorance so it is clear I have no idea why that worked and the other didn't, and still don't know the root cause of the beeping. Again, I just offer this as a data point. It is painfully obvious I need a class on this radio. Ha ha.

Good luck,
Dan

[Woodcock]

I just followed what Ryan said, and moved the throttle trim down. It Didn't stop until I was at the bottom of the range though.

Woody

[fhhuber]

I just followed what Ryan said, and moved the throttle trim down. It Didn't stop until I was at the bottom of the range though.

Woody

Need to reprogram the throttle range of the ESC.

You probably were also not getting 100% and you could prove that by use of a wattmeter and running the trim up with the stick at the high end.

[Dirty Dee]

Finally finishing up with the rest of my markings. Cajuns Desert Rose pinup finally applied as well as the kill markings.

Good practice for my fine tip brush skills :)

[MikeT]

Thanks xviper. Tried to bind it last night which worked but the motors are still beeping. I'll try putting the BEC wire into the bind port as you say and see if that makes the difference. Otherwise I can't figure out why the motors are beeping......not happy somehow.

I had the same issue with mine during assembly tried everything. Turns out my BEC was bad. I had a castle laying around and used it and solved the issue .

Mike

[xviper]

This beeping can be caused by all of the above mentioned reasons - bad BEC, too high on the throttle trim or sub-trim, wrong polarity on one or more of the RX plugs, one or more loose (or broken) connections to the motor(s) or in the case of this plane (with a control board), a bad connection at the board.

[MikeT]

I know this sounds silly but have you checked to be sure everything is plugged in correctly. I've actually plugged things in reverse from what they should be from time to time.

Mike

[Elbee]

Finally finishing up with the rest of my markings. Cajuns Desert Rose pinup finally applied as well as the kill markings.

Good practice for my fine tip brush skills :)

DD, Those 'kill markings' look familiar. :Thinking: Absolutely, love the pinup, "Desert Rose". Your A-10 is looking great, brother. Best, LB