Front top battery is right at the edge where it drops down to the bottom shelf, bottom battery is about 5mm from the foam stop just below the top battery. I can get some pics later, I put it away on my top shelf already...:Cool:
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Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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Thank you for your video and advice. Very informative. Could you tell us if your using flap settings per manual or did you reduce flaps as well? ThanksOriginally posted by DCORSAIR View PostThanks guys, one thing I would like to add to this that I don't mention in my video, all this is with these rates, 30mm/ail, 30mm/elev., very little rudder/steering and I have no elev./flap mix or exp and no dual rates, I don't use any expo or dual rates on any of my EDF's, and my CG is in between 78mm-82mm with the 60c 5000mah, with my 45c 5000mah, I do mount them in the same position and fly it, so 85mm or so it flies fine but I like my jets and planes nose heavy and not neutral, so keep that in mind if your setting up your A-10 like mine.
One last thing, when I say cut the power, I'm not talking about just coming in and chopping your throttle at any time and expect it to glide in, I cut the power and use the weight of the A-10 to keep my speed up as I decend to the runway, so I trade altitude for air speed. Didn't want some new guy to go out and just chop the throttle on final and expect it to glide in.
;)
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Mine only come down warm too, and that's even flying on a hot day. They are a little warmer than on some of my other jets but they are still OK to hold in hand which tells me they aren't getting too hot. I have a pair each of Pulse 6s 5000 mAh and 5500 mAh. Still get 5 minutes from each set and still have plenty left when they come down.Originally posted by xviper2 View PostRe: Cooling mod for batteries.
I'm talking about punching out that hole in the black spot in front of the cockpit a larger exit in the belly. I know that some folks believe it's necessary but those who haven't done this, what do you experience? Do the batteries get that hot? Perhaps those fellas who have done the mod are using older low C batteries that naturally get warm? I'm not averse to punching holes in a plane, just maybe not this one.
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Don't want to derail this thread too far but I would love to figure out how to get longer flights like yours. 5 minutes would be free-king awesome. I am using new Roaring Top, 5000 mAh, 70 C batteries. My timer is at 3:30 and I figure that allows me a slow go around if I have to. After a full throttle take off, I loiter around the pattern at no more than 1/2 throttle (OK, maybe one pass at 3/4 throttle to appease the rabid spectators lust) and after about 3:15 of pure joy, I start to set up for landing. I am routinely putting about 3500-3600 mAh back into the batteries and measuring around 3.74-3.76 volts per cell after each sortie, which seems safe to me. The batteries are warm, yes, but not to the point where I need nuke gloves to handle them. I know the drill on EDF and don't expect miracles, but then I read your post about 5 minutes and I am insanely jealous and wondering if I should push my timer out a little farther?Originally posted by Mike_Then View PostStill get 5 minutes from each set and still have plenty left when they come down.
Cheers,
Dan
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Yeah, that would be awesome to get at least 4 minutes out of my 5000 but I can only do about 3 to 3-1/2 minutes and mine come down a little warm, of course I can't help but do those high speed low inverted passes and that will suck the battery quick, it's not scale flying but it sure is fun, will have to make another video of what this hog can really do...........LOL
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Well Dan, I have been wondering the same thing...
I am flying Admiral 5000 50c packs exclusively...
I do not fly wot and I have my timer set at 2:45 minutes. When it goes off I drop the gear and set up for landing...
I have 3.70 to 3.79 volts per cell...
At least with these batteries I sure wouldn't want to push it much past 3 minutes...
I am new to electric RC and read about timing and setting up the speed controler??? I just put it together and flown as it came...
Am I missing something???
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Most new ESCs come pre-set to "auto" for timing. The owner shouldn't need to change that. The only other thing to do after binding (with throttle trim tab as low as it will go), is to do the throttle range calibration so the ESCs know where 0 throttle is and where 100% throttle is. Program in a throttle cut so your plane doesn't accidentally fly off the table.Originally posted by TomPatton View PostI am new to electric RC and read about timing and setting up the speed controler??? I just put it together and flown as it came...
Am I missing something???
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It's probably been asked before, but wouldn't it be great if you could buy the weapons and ordinance separately ??
We were discussing this at Nefi, so if you wanted to change out your load to, say , all stinger missles, you could purchase the required amount instead of a half dozen weapons packages ??
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Hi Tom - If you are, I am missing it as well. Mine is stone stock, except for a few scale only for me cosmetic thingys and a Jomar gear door sequencer. I did program a throttle cut off in the Tx as xviper suggested. I wouldn't feel confident messing with any of the ESC settings, even if I knew how to get to them. Probably better for humanity that I stay ignorant there. Besides, it sounds like I am in the middle of the bell curve anyway when it comes to flight time, at least based on what I am reading here. I just saw 5 minutes in Mike's post and got envious. :-)Originally posted by TomPatton View PostI am new to electric RC and read about timing and setting up the speed controler??? I just put it together and flown as it came...
Am I missing something???
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There was some horse trading going on earlier, maybe over at RC groups. What are you looking for, and are you willing to trade anything;-)Originally posted by Grossman56 View PostIt's probably been asked before, but wouldn't it be great if you could buy the weapons and ordinance separately ??
We were discussing this at Nefi, so if you wanted to change out your load to, say , all stinger missles, you could purchase the required amount instead of a half dozen weapons packages ??
Grossman56
By the way, not sure Stingers are available, that is the shoulder fired air defense weapon used by the Army and incorporated into some other ADA weapons. The air to air missiles on the A-10 are Sidewinders. The larger air to ground missiles are Mavericks. I would like to have a couple more Mavericks.
The Sidewinders are most likely to get damaged since they seem to protrude forward a bit further than the other weapons. I have already had to repair one of mine when it fell victim to a bit of renegade tall grass near the end of our runway. I'm thinking I may just make my own Sidewinders with some Evergreen styrene 1/2 inch tube from the hobby shop.
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I've been considering the same thing. They'll handle the amp load easily, especially since you don't have to fly the A-10 at close to full throttle to keep it in the air.Originally posted by Thomas W View PostQuick question if I may. Would the Roaring Top 6s-5500-45c packs be good enough for the A10, or should I really consider the 70c packs instead? Really wish MRC had 5500 50c Admiral packs.
I'm also looking at the 5800/35C packs. Like most, I'd like a bit more flight time, and this aircraft doesn't need a high C rated (and thus heavier) battery since it has a lower amp draw. So I'm considering exchanging a lower C rating/weight to increase the mah capacity/weight for a longer flight time.
Sean
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