Originally posted by jetdoc
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Official Freewing 70mm Twin Me 262 Thread
Collapse
X
-
Hey guys, this seems appropriate. Too cool not to post. Sorry Preston I need that part as well! I ended up sheeting mine with foam and painting the gun ports.
Someone needs to design a 3D-printed replacement....
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
- Likes 1
Comment
-
No additional nose weight. I had noticed that with my Dymond 5000 the plane was very "tippy" and required a lot of extra up elevator when taxiing. The Graphene 4000 is heavier than an Admiral 4000, but not as heavy as the Dymond 5000. I fly with the Graphene fully forward and it flies perfectly to my tastes. Keep in mind though, I like all my planes toward the aft CG limit. I find them more maneuverable in the air and more well-mannered on the ground.Originally posted by e4dragongunner View Post
Did you have to add nose weight? I have an admiral 5000 almost all the way forward... and yes love my clipped wing !!!
- Likes 1
Comment
-
That was no flaps. When it's that windy and gusty, I won't use flaps for take off or landing. On most of my planes with flaps, I've learned that the wind can cause an even worse upset if flaps are down.Originally posted by Dual Prop Dave View PostNice save! Beautiful landing as well! :Cool:
Was that with or without flaps on takeoff and landing?
- Likes 1
Comment
-
I’ve had this plane hung in my “hangar” since September, un flown. It’s pretty fast on the stock 12b setup right? I sold the stock outrunners and used the 60a ESCs in smaller prop planes. I pulled it down last night and remembered how cool of a model it is. That being said, I’ve always loved German 262s, 190s, and 109s. I want to get a power system back installed so I can Maiden it soon. I have these options for power plants; a pair of FMS 1850kv Inrunners, or a set of Freewing 2210s. I have 3 pair of available 100 amp ESCs, HobbyWing, FMS Predator, or YEPs.
Have any of you used any of the above combinations? If so, what are your thoughts? Either way it’s going to be pretty quick.
thanks,
Jim
Comment
-
Mine has the "new" 2150 kv outrunners and 12-bl fans, 60A ESCs, all stock. The plane is pretty fast for out of the box. Because the motors are slung so low, it can easily do a "wheelie" if you max the throttle from a standing start. If you lope along in level flight and suddenly open it up, the plane will also go nose up into the vertical all by itself for the same reason. I've been quite satisfied with the performance. I don't think I'll have the need to alter the power system on this one.
Oh and yes, it's pretty fast in my opinion. Having the Avanti S, L-39, new F/A-18 and 80mm A-10 to compare, this one is no slouch. I think it could keep up with any of those. If the fuse wasn't so fat, it might even surpass those others.
- Likes 1
Comment
-
I agree completely with XViper's comments! (great minds think alike??) I also fly mine stock. I feel its an improvement from the earlier version. I'll add: be careful to monitor your battery usage in your first few flights to get your timer set, the twin EDFs eat the milliamps up fast. And - its a good idea to reinforce both sides of the battery compartment with CF rods because the nose can be broken clean off in a firm landing. (none of us will ever do that, right!). I really enjoy flying this one, its definitely a keeper.
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
Comment
-
This is indeed true. Even a good landing on a rough, grass surface will snap the beak off on this plane. I've got CF square tubes going from the opening of the wing hole, all the way along each side and driven into the foam in the solid part of the nose cone. The rods were Dremeled into an arrow head point and pushed in about 2" into the nose. Then I used popsicle sticks and epoxied those under that nose cone and into the battery bay to help strengthen the nose gear when it hits something unforgiving.Originally posted by themudduck View PostI agree completely with XViper's comments! (great minds think alike??) I also fly mine stock. I feel its an improvement from the earlier version. I'll add: be careful to monitor your battery usage in your first few flights to get your timer set, the twin EDFs eat the milliamps up fast. And - its a good idea to reinforce both sides of the battery compartment with CF rods because the nose can be broken clean off in a firm landing. (none of us will ever do that, right!). I really enjoy flying this one, its definitely a keeper.
Comment
-
When I got it, the first thing I did was reinforce the nose and nose gear with 5 CF rods and add balsa to the batter tray. I read up on everything when I got it, I just thought I would ask opinions before I installed everything. As far as the "wheelies" go, I already have a AS3X receiver in it that I had laying around. I didn't see the need to go higher than 6 channels on this plane. The only I could potentially want would be nosewheel steering, but I'm not that worried about not having it
Comment
-
In your first picture, how far into the foam (beside the retract body) does that rod go? Mine broke just aft of the retract attachment screws. The other place it cracked was at the front wing hole. As for the "wheelie", this happens from the standing start, so AS3X won't help as there's no airflow to speak of on the elevator. You just need to accelerate moderately at first. The AS3X will help reduce nose up for sudden throttle input while flying.Originally posted by C17loadmaster View PostWhen I got it, the first thing I did was reinforce the nose and nose gear with 5 CF rods and add balsa to the batter tray. I read up on everything when I got it, I just thought I would ask opinions before I installed everything. As far as the "wheelies" go, I already have a AS3X receiver in it that I had laying around. I didn't see the need to go higher than 6 channels on this plane. The only I could potentially want would be nosewheel steering, but I'm not that worried about not having it
Comment
-
I had envisioned it airborne when I replied about the wheelie haha. :)
The gear support rod is pushed up against the stew that secures that corner of the retract, so about an inch. I haven’t texted it out yet... I could just tell that mount was asking to break off. I was building this the same time I was working on my SUs so I was in the mindset of strengthening nose gear haha
Comment
-
I purchased this awesome plane a few months back recently completed the build and had a flawless maiden flight and 2 more flights the plane flew amazing... my favorite plane by far.. on the 4th attempt I taxi out and head down the runway on lift off it cartwheels to the left.. damaged the left wing so I try once more and now it acts like the right edf is thrusting harder than the left I have calibrated the throttle but still same results anybody else experience anything like this... I'm at a loss what to try
Comment
-
Did you notice at what point it did this cartwheel? Did you apply high throttle at the time with some UP elevator to try to lift off? Can you recollect if the plane may have lifted off a bit sooner than the previous couple of flights. I'm asking because if the plane "rotated" due to a lot of throttle and UP elevator (as many of us do when taking off) a little prematurely (as in just before there is enough airspeed to actually "fly"), it may have stalled trying to climb too steeply. This is aggravated by the fact that the thrust line is slung low beneath the wings. If it did stall on take off because of this, it can easily drop a wing and have it touch the ground. Result - cartwheel. (Read my previous posts regarding "wheelies" and nosing up.)Originally posted by RCcharlie View PostI purchased this awesome plane a few months back recently completed the build and had a flawless maiden flight and 2 more flights the plane flew amazing... my favorite plane by far.. on the 4th attempt I taxi out and head down the runway on lift off it cartwheels to the left.. damaged the left wing so I try once more and now it acts like the right edf is thrusting harder than the left I have calibrated the throttle but still same results anybody else experience anything like this... I'm at a loss what to try
After such a "boo-boo", check the fans to make sure they didn't crack or lose a blade or have the hex screws on the fan hub back off a little, making the fan not bite the motor shaft firmly. Check each fan to make sure they are spinning freely. This can cause differential thrust between the two engines.
Comment
-
There are a few things that can cause differential thrust.
If using 2 channels to handle throttle go to a Y harness. 262 does not benefit from purposefully differential thrust at any time.
Go through the connections between battery and motor and see if any are getting hot under load. A defective solder joint can cause low power, LVC and possibly will heat enough under lad to melt the solder.
Slide heat shrink over the bullet connectors between ESC and motor. There's a small gap in the insulation and you can get arcing between the wires which can scramble the feedback the ESC uses for timing the power pulses. Its best to shrink it and lock the bullets connected. But just sliding heat shrink on can cure stuttering and other motor issues.
See if one of those gets your power back in balance.FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbs
Comment










Comment