Official FlightLine RC 2000mm B-24D/J Liberator Thread

[TiredIronGRB]

Why drill a hole in the top, you could just put a dab of glue in the slot the top slides down in.

[Clearblue]

Why drill a hole in the top, you could just put a dab of glue in the slot the top slides down in.

True, suppose I could say it's a vent? Or something like that. But it's because I'd drilled the top turret. Never really thought about the front turrets ability to side up and off! Learning curve. Brain Fart? Take a pick! :-)

[TiredIronGRB]

True, suppose I could say it's a vent? Or something like that. But it's because I'd drilled the top turret. Never really thought about the front turrets ability to side up and off! Learning curve. Brain Fart? Take a pick! :-)

Funny...I like that you kept the gunners legs on.

[donnie]

Could someone here please advise me one how to do the installation of the optional spring loaded main gear struts? Have now completed my model except for adding this landing gear mod. I have used Callie graphics on mine then used rattle can Testors dull cote [1261] to dull her graphics. Actually spayed entire airframe with this product as it dries extremely flat. My last step will be to use a soft drafting pencil on all the panel lines then a light mist of water to weather them in. Enjoy, donnie

[xviper]

Could someone here please advise me one how to do the installation of the optional spring loaded main gear struts?

This will likely become one of the more common things that an RC hobbyist will do - replace struts and/or retracts.
Unscrew retract from mount so you can access those holes on the side of the unit. There are hex screws inside those holes. Make sure you hex key is in good shape so you don't round off the hex screw hole. Loosen or remove those hex screws. Pull out strut. You'll notice that the replacement struts come with new hex screws. Use them if you've damaged the old ones. Put in the new strut, install the screws with some FoamTac or non-permanent Loctite back into the holes. Screw the whole retract assembly back into the plane. Done. You don't have to completely remove the retracts from the plane. Leave the servo wire in place. All you need is to access those holes on the side.
As you begin to get more and more into each plane you fly and crash, you'll learn how things come apart. From this, you'll learn how things go back together. Just looking at the new part will often times give you a clue as to how they go in and how the old one comes out.

Here's the old part: https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...t-landing-gear See that hole on the retract side?
Here's the new strut: https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...nding-gear-set See the included new hex screws? See the "flat" ground into the top of the strut? In your mind, see how it all goes together and how it all comes apart.

[Prowler901]

The first thing to remove is the bottom nacelle cover on the inboard engine nacelles. There are two small screws that hold the cover on. Removing the cover after loosening the screws may take a little effort as the paint between the two parts may stick. That will give you access to the screws to remove the retract unit that xviper is talking about above. Then follow xviper's instructions. One important note when replacing the nacelle cover and tightening the rear screw. Don't over tighten it. It is only in a piece of plywood and can easily strip if you tighten it too much.

[fhhuber]

Some retracts you access the set screw to remove the strut by having the retract extended (more common) some it has to be retracted.
Some you have to pull the retract and the set screws are in the middle of the pivot pin for the trunion. (Dynam appx 1200 mm series warbirds, and they often forget to put the set screws in.)

Some have just one set screw. Some have 2, 3 or 4.

Then there's the 3 or 4 ways they deal with the steerable nosewheel strut being held in.

[pmisuinas]

Hi Woody: could you be more specific on the B-17 ball turret details for the B-24? The B-17 is a slightly smaller scale model than the B-24 if you are talking about the 63 inch wingspan model. I'd like to add a ball turret but would like to know what the diameter of the ball is to see if I could live with the scale difference. Maybe it would look fine, I don't know.

From the rcgroups thread:

Info for those that are looking at a ball turret.
Here is a side by side comparison between the HK 1875mm B-17 and the Freewing 1600mm B-17s ball turrets.
They are both 54mm round.
Where they are shaved on the sides:-
Freewing - 48mm
HK - 41mm

Link to pictures of above: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1373

Some internet research turned up the diameter of the Sperry turret is 44", which means for this aircraft the ball should be 66mm round. So that means these B-17 turrets are 20% too small. TI sent me one and when I compared it to the model and pictures of the actual turret, I thought it looked too small. So I am using a Royal B-17 plastic part (belly turret) I had on hand--it is almost exactly the correct size.

[donnie]

This will likely become one of the more common things that an RC hobbyist will do - replace struts and/or retracts.
Unscrew retract from mount so you can access those holes on the side of the unit. There are hex screws inside those holes. Make sure you hex key is in good shape so you don't round off the hex screw hole. Loosen or remove those hex screws. Pull out strut. You'll notice that the replacement struts come with new hex screws. Use them if you've damaged the old ones. Put in the new strut, install the screws with some FoamTac or non-permanent Loctite back into the holes. Screw the whole retract assembly back into the plane. Done. You don't have to completely remove the retracts from the plane. Leave the servo wire in place. All you need is to access those holes on the side.
As you begin to get more and more into each plane you fly and crash, you'll learn how things come apart. From this, you'll learn how things go back together. Just looking at the new part will often times give you a clue as to how they go in and how the old one comes out.

Here's the old part: https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...t-landing-gear See that hole on the retract side?
Here's the new strut: https://www.motionrc.com/products/fl...nding-gear-set See the included new hex screws? See the "flat" ground into the top of the strut? In your mind, see how it all goes together and how it all comes apart.

thank you for this detailed helpful response sir, donnie

[donnie]

so has anyone found a rattle can paint that match's the color of the O.D. color scheme? donnie

[Prowler901]

I think most folks are going to Home Depot and getting a color matched sample jar. I think there is a post in here with an image attached of the tops of the jars.

[fhhuber]

You can get a color matched rattle can.
I forgot if its Lowes or Home Depot, because its been a couple of years.. Ask at one and if not there, its the other. (local Lowes is 3 blocks from Home depot.)
Both do color match sample cans.

[Regatoni5]

What size packs is everyone using and where’s your go to location for CG?

[SPUD 37]

For the guys who have flown her. I have CHL 4000 batteries in her pushed as far back as I can. It's nose heavy in a heavy way. What CG are you guys using? Because at 76 it's gonna need some tail weight. Are you guys just flying her that heavy?

[Rcnut]

Guys, Post 688 is the picture of the paint sample containers from Home Depot. Under $20 for all 5. Color match is spot on. I use a foam brush to apply. John

[TiredIronGRB]

I use the Admiral and CHL 4S 4000s and run them all the way to the rear of the battery bay. And she flys great.

[SPUD 37]

I use the Admiral and CHL 4S 4000s and run them all the way to the rear of the battery bay. And she flys great.

Thanks Tirediron......I placed about 3oz under the H-stab and she is balanced at 3". The CHL's 55c weigh 100 more than the Admirals. So I went ahead and added the wt. The CHL's have xt90 connecters, so now I have to wait for the adapters before that first flight.

[SPUD 37]

Hey Tirediron here's one for you. Just a quick jump off topic.

[crxmanpat]

I have been flying mine with Turnigy Graphene 4S 4000 45C packs, which are heavy. I have them pushed all the way back like in TiredIron's pic. I also have all of the power connection leads run around the back of the rear wing spar tube to get as much weight to the rear as possible. I'm slightly nose heavy, but she flies great. Inverted requires no back pressure at all.

[donnie]

I too am planning on using the Turnigy graphene packs as well. To establish the recommended C.G. I needed to add 2.5 oz. of tail weight. Have read here that this airframe is not very C.G. sensitive. Most all my models have a rearward C.G. as this has always worked out best for me. Disclosure is that I have not yet flown my model yet but she is just about ready for the maiden. All that remains prior to this is to use a soft pencil [#9] to run down all the panel lines then do the water mist thing I have mentioned and lastly another light coat of Testors Dull Cote. Enjoy, donnie