Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[ICM]

I took off my wing for storage. Now I can't remember which wing connector plugs in to which blue box receptacle. I should have labeled them front and rear. Neither the Blue Box nor manual indicate. Does it make any difference?

[xviper]

I took off my wing for storage. Now I can't remember which wing connector plugs in to which blue box receptacle. I should have labeled them front and rear. Neither the Blue Box nor manual indicate. Does it make any difference?

No.

[Balsa Bob]

BB, the STL files are provided to us to 'have' the parts 3DP printed. There are services available (The RC Geek comes to mind) or if you have access to a buddy with a 3DP printer who could print those for you. Additionally, Callie Graphics has the gauges in photo form that were printed to match the 3DP print of the instrument panel perfectly. Best, LB

Thanks LB. I will try RC Geek.

[Captain Moron]

XVIPER. If you mean the ripping cables that connect the aileron, flaps and retracts. It does not matter just connect them up either slot in the blue box

[ICM]

Thanks X and Captain.

[xviper]

XVIPER. If you mean the ripping cables that connect the aileron, flaps and retracts. It does not matter just connect them up either slot in the blue box

As far as I can remember, those are the ONLY things that need disconnecting/connecting when separating the wings from the fuse (for transport and storage), so there is no mistaking what's being talked about.

[Wild Man]

BB, the STL files are provided to us to 'have' the parts 3DP printed. There are services available (The RC Geek comes to mind) or if you have access to a buddy with a 3DP printer who could print those for you. Additionally, Callie Graphics has the gauges in photo form that were printed to match the 3DP print of the instrument panel perfectly. Best, LB

You can get all the .STL files right off Motion RC,s site Go to the Bird Cage 4FU-1A/D page scroll down to Support and you will find the 3D printer files there. Both the 4FU-1 files are there for you the Bird Cage and the Bubble Top files are there for you to down load. I just got done printing the Instrument panel for mine. The printed paper Instrument panel is coming from Callie graphics. Here is a photo of the 3D printed Instrument panel I just done with, took over two Hours. Still waiting for all the graphics I ordered from Callie. I just started printing the gun site for the F4U right now.

[Elbee]

You can get all the .STL files right off Motion RC... I just started printing the gun site for the F4U right now.

WW, If you are printing the Large Gunsight, you might print the 'other' IP with the Slot for the Large Gunsight. It is easier than cutting & fitting the large gunsight into the IP with the gunsight already printed in place. Best, LB

[paulsnapp]

For those of you who have removed the canopy for cockpit enhancements I have a question. I am ready to re-install my canopy. When I removed it, it came off very clean and did not pull up any chunks of foam. The glue that was used I was able to easily pull away from inside the canopy. My question is, is the proper re-attachment to apply a thin coating of Foam-Tac around the cockpit edges and inside the canopy edges, let it tack, and press into place? The glue that the manufacturer used looks more like a clear rubber cement. If Foam-Tac is not the right glue to use can you share what the correct glue is to use? Thanks so much!!

[Hugh Wiedman]

For those of you who have removed the canopy for cockpit enhancements I have a question. I am ready to re-install my canopy. When I removed it, it came off very clean and did not pull up any chunks of foam. The glue that was used I was able to easily pull away from inside the canopy. My question is, is the proper re-attachment to apply a thin coating of Foam-Tac around the cockpit edges and inside the canopy edges, let it tack, and press into place? The glue that the manufacturer used looks more like a clear rubber cement. If Foam-Tac is not the right glue to use can you share what the correct glue is to use? Thanks so much!!

I always use ZAP Canopy glue. Goes on white (looks like Elmer's Glue) but dries clear. This is the same stuff I think, that the manufacturer uses. Removal of the canopy is much easier with that. If you use the foam tack, it may be tough to ever remove the canopy again (not that you are likely to) but more importantly you will see the dried glue around the edges of the canopy as it oozes out when it dries and is very visible. It will look pretty crummy. With the Canopy glue, it virtually disappears when cured and leaves a very thin coating, so I suggest you get some. Tape the canopy down in a few places as it dries to keep all edges in contact with the fuselage.

[paulsnapp]

I always use ZAP Canopy glue. Goes on white (looks like Elmer's Glue) but dries clear. This is the same stuff I think, that the manufacturer uses. Removal of the canopy is much easier with that. If you use the foam tack, it may be tough to ever remove the canopy again (not that you are likely to) but more importantly you will see the dried glue around the edges of the canopy as it oozes out when it dries and is very visible. It will look pretty crummy. With the Canopy glue, it virtually disappears when cured and leaves a very thin coating, so I suggest you get some. Tape the canopy down in a few places as it dries to keep all edges in contact with the fuselage.

Hugh, thanks so much I will get some. When I re-install the canopy, do I place the ZAP on the edges of the cockpit, on the inside of the canopy or both?

[paulsnapp]

I always use ZAP Canopy glue. Goes on white (looks like Elmer's Glue) but dries clear. This is the same stuff I think, that the manufacturer uses. Removal of the canopy is much easier with that. If you use the foam tack, it may be tough to ever remove the canopy again (not that you are likely to) but more importantly you will see the dried glue around the edges of the canopy as it oozes out when it dries and is very visible. It will look pretty crummy. With the Canopy glue, it virtually disappears when cured and leaves a very thin coating, so I suggest you get some. Tape the canopy down in a few places as it dries to keep all edges in contact with the fuselage.

Hugh, also, I have had very bad luck using even low tack tape on painted areas. If I tape the canopy to the fuselage till dry, will it not pull up paint from the plane when I pull the tape off?

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hugh, thanks so much I will get some. When I re-install the canopy, do I place the ZAP on the edges of the cockpit, on the inside of the canopy or both?

Put a thin layer on both, I usually use a small brush so I don't have globs in certain areas. Place the canopy on where it goes and press the edges down to evenly spread the glue. You may not need it, but if you do need some tape on any area that is not flush with the fuselage, use small pieces of a low tack tape like Scotch edging tape for delicate surfaces (gorilla tape also makes a low tack tape for this) with the majority of the tape on the plastic canopy and just a bit on the fuselage. Before sticking the tape on, stick it down and remove it on a flat surface like a table top several times which will also make the tape less sticky, but still enough to hold any area of the canopy down on the fuselage. You can remove the tape after an hour or so before the glue has completely hardened and you should not end up removing any paint. It may take a good 24 hours to fully dry so don't worry if after several hours there are still places where the glue is white. After 24 hours, it will be clear and unnoticeable.

[Wild Man]

Hugh is right on the Zap Formula 560 made by Pacer product's is a good one. The Super RC Z 56 made by J & Z products is almost if not the same as Zap They are both White in Color and clear when dry.. Apply as Wildman Wiedman as explained

[RodgerC]

A gloomy day here in Ohio, but I have this to look forward to when it warms up. Tried to keep it simple. Did the three color paint scheme, fantastic decals from Callie, sealed it all with Testors dull coat. I may try some weathering at some point. Can’t wait until springtime!

Hi EA6B. Nice scheme. What paints did you use and did you brush or spray? Cheers. Rodger C

[EA-6B Geek]

Hi EA6B. Nice scheme. What paints did you use and did you brush or spray? Cheers. Rodger C

RC, thank you for the compliment! For the blues, I used a paint match from Home Depot, found earlier in this thread. I first painted the lower portions of the airframe with a Testors light gray from a rattle can, then I painted the intermediate blue portions with an airbrush. I left the factory dark blue finish alone, but purchased a jar of the paint for touch ups etc. Let me know if you can’t find the post with the HD paint samples, I’ll post a photo of mine.

[RCAV8R]

Hi Guys...It's been a while! So I got a second Birdcage after losing my first a year ago to the dreaded Corsair stall. I had a bit of a struggle figuring out my landings on this one, but thanks to all of your advice, I started using more throttle and am back in the saddle. I love building 1/32 scale models and am currently working on a Tamiya Birdcage, but finally decided to go for painting my "big brother" (it's difficult to shift to such a bigger scale when used to the smaller one). Here are some shots of where I'm at so far, and realize it's a work in progress! I was happy with how the ribbing effect came out on the rudder.

On another note, the green LED on my starboard wingtip has burned out and MRC doesn't offer a replacement...can someone point me to where I can get a replacement light/bulb to solder on?Thanks! Rob

[Aros]

Love the subtle weathering...Looks fantastic!

[RCAV8R]

Thanks Aros! Always tough to know when to stop! Here are some shots of my little Corsair (8 months in progress)...

Rob

[Aros]

Outstanding! I wish I had that kind of patience.