Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[Elbee]

Your work is Amazing Elbee. I have always thought it would be awesome to have these on a Corsair even if they were open all the time Scale Maestro Designer and 3DP genius OH I have a question can I have it LOL!!!!!! just kidding Sir

WM, Yeah, everyone can have it once it is proven. I will post anything once I complete the model if there is interest. My thought is to have the cowl flaps always open, but spring loaded so natural airflow might close 'em down somewhat. The optimum might be to use a servo slaved to the throttle and open and close with throttle setting. Easy to do, I think, but is it needed? Probably not. So I like the idea of using the air to move 'em in or out. Purely conjecture at this time, but I like the design so far. A serious issue is finding expansion springs like Freewing/Flightline have access. I know 'diddly' about springs and all I have access to is at the hardware store. Make my own, sure, but why if I could source 'em. Best, LB

[Wild Man]

WM, Yeah, everyone can have it once it is proven. I will post anything once I complete the model if there is interest. My thought is to have the cowl flaps always open, but spring loaded so natural airflow might close 'em down somewhat. The optimum might be to use a servo slaved to the throttle and open and close with throttle setting. Easy to do, I think, but is it needed? Probably not. So I like the idea of using the air to move 'em in or out. Purely conjecture at this time, but I like the design so far. A serious issue is finding expansion springs like Freewing/Flightline have access. I know 'diddly' about springs and all I have access to is at the hardware store. Make my own, sure, but why if I could source 'em. Best, LB

Elbee when you get done Even if they are open all the time I would love to be the first to buy a set from you price is up to you, they will be quite an option to add to my Bird Cage Corsair I just finished up but have not had a chance to test fly due to all the bad weather and 18" of snow we recently got here in the Black Hills of SD

[nuts-n-volts]

LB, those look great. Nice work! Instead of springs tho, I would simply run a thin braided steel cable thru holes in each horn. The cable slides thru all horns in a big concentric loop. Connect the ends of the cable to a double (180') servo arm (one each side), or anchor one end and connect the other to the servo. Pulling the cable tightens the loop thus opening the flaps. Pushing it, expands the loop and closes the flaps. The extra servo weight is needed up front anyway, so mix it to throttle like you said and there ya go. Open at the low end and fully closed at around half to three quarters throttle.

Sorry, after re-reading your post you probably already knew this technique as I realize you were working on a way without a servo and air pressure only. Either way, I plan to incorporate it on mine. Thanks for wanting to put it out there.

[Hugh Wiedman]

I envision a day in the not so distant future when I'm sitting around the fireplace with the grandkids after flying the now iconic FL Corsair, the first foam RC model complete with operating cowl flaps. I'll be able to tell them that I remember the day like yesterday when Elbee, the "Father of Iconic Modifications", first invented his operating cowl flaps, now prominently exhibited in the recently opened Modification Hall of Fame, a museum dedicated to his numerous ground breaking inventions. They won't believe me when I tell them that I was able to witness this historic event, but then I'll be able to show them the actual photo of the prototype and tell them that I knew him back when he was just "one of the guys".

[Elbee]

Even though it's really just plastic jewelry to commiserate....er, commemorate the day he met his beloved. What do all you guys see that I do not?

[evensen007]

Hey fellers,

Been offline for a while (most of the winter) and waited for the bubble top to come back into stock. Finally have one coming in this weekend and wanted to see if there is a summary of any 'look out for's, don't do's, or try to's" since it's been out for quite a while now. Was hoping to just put her together and fly, but also wanting to look for the usual/standard sage advice around here.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Whistlers, (as in 'whistling death')... okay so it's our, she whose authority exceeds my rank and my "First Day We Met" anniversary next week and since I am a 3DP kinda guy, I thought I would print her something. Plastic is the 8th right? Ask your significant other for me.

Anyway, pictured below is what I giving her.

She is the "Lucky Girl" (LG). More when there is more. Best, LB

On second thought, Ana took another look at your design and finally agreed that Tams definitely will love it as a necklace. She's convinced Tams will make use of that necklace around your throat after installing a thin steel wire cable through each horn and use it as a garrote on you. "Hasta la Vista, Baby". If you haven't done so already, please amend your will to have me adopt all your aircraft in the event of anything happening to you, thanks, I'll treat them as my own with loving kindness.

[Elbee]

Consider it done and thank Ana for us. LOL

[e4dragongunner]

Jay,
Robart 3.5” wheels,
HRB 6s 5000 50C battery,
CG per the manual,
did not have to use any of the nose weights.

S.F.

Thanks Brother! :-) Hope to see you again soon!

[evensen007]

Well this is slightly annoying. Did anyone else have an issue on the prop assembly where the short outer screws don't grab the back plate threads? All 3 of my outer screws just spin in place and barely grab. It's almost like the outer threads on the backplate were machined sloppy.

[xviper]

Well this is slightly annoying. Did anyone else have an issue on the prop assembly where the short outer screws don't grab the back plate threads? All 3 of my outer screws just spin in place and barely grab. It's almost like the outer threads on the backplate were machined sloppy.

No, I don't recall having any issues with assembling the prop. This may be stating the obvious, but perhaps you got the screws mixed up. There are 2 sets of screws, each set are different lengths and sizes. Did you try to reverse their positions? It's been a long time since I put this plane together, but are you sure the short screws are the outer ones?

[evensen007]

No, I don't recall having any issues with assembling the prop. This may be stating the obvious, but perhaps you got the screws mixed up. There are 2 sets of screws, each set are different lengths and sizes. Did you try to reverse their positions? It's been a long time since I put this plane together, but are you sure the short screws are the outer ones?

Legit question, but yes. The shorter screws are for the outer holes. The longer middle screws do thread and lock to the plate. Looks like I'm going to need a replacement part. Bummer, wanted to fly it today.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Legit question, but yes. The shorter screws are for the outer holes. The longer middle screws do thread and lock to the plate. Looks like I'm going to need a replacement part. Bummer, wanted to fly it today.

You've got a legitimate beef there. I have over 100 flights on mine and frankly never noticed till you just mentioned it. I just looked at my spare prop I always take out with it (fortunately never needed it but as Scarlet O'Hara said, "Tomorrow is another Day") and it's about the same. Short screws on the outside, longer inside and they definitely do not extend to the absolute bottom of the plate, maybe about 1 mm short. Can't remember how thick that bottom plate is, but it seemed to me to get enough threads into the plate to not cause much concern when I first put them together. All six screws extend into the plate the same distance, but stop just short of extending beyond the bottom of the plate, which I thought was appropriate. If yours don't even extend that far in, then yes, 'Houston, we've got a problem". And I have each of the six screws cranked in as hard as I can and they didn't strip out.

I don't know if you can see anything from these photos, but this prop has run fine for many flights.

[evensen007]

Yep, looks like it's grounded for a while then. My outer screws don't grab nearly that deep. In fact, I can take a needle driver and just push them right out from the bottom of the backplate. I'll have motion send me new screws and a new backplate since I'm not 100% sure which is the problem.

[evensen007]

Also a question for you weathering artists here. This birdcage is begging to get a 'broken in' look to her, but I've never weathered before. Can someone point me to a post of this version that's been done as reference? And is there a post or video you'd point me to that could help me achieve a simple weathered look? I'm not looking to go airbrush or anything yet. Maybe some charcoal and the like to start with. Also needs a pinup girl on the fuse! This thing is absolutely beautiful!

[Hugh Wiedman]

Also a question for you weathering artists here. This birdcage is begging to get a 'broken in' look to her, but I've never weathered before. Can someone point me to a post of this version that's been done as reference? And is there a post or video you'd point me to that could help me achieve a simple weathered look? I'm not looking to go airbrush or anything yet. Maybe some charcoal and the like to start with. Also needs a pinup girl on the fuse! This thing is absolutely beautiful!

For the pin-up girl, just go to Callie Graphics. You can select any pin-up you want from any livery or aircraft. Send her an e-mail saying you want such and such a pin-up from whatever stock sheet she has, no need to get all the graphics on that sheet unless you want. I mix and match pin-ups from all kids of different sources (obviously not recommended for a true scale outcome). She will also print any pin-up you design or find that she doesn't already make. I found a bad photo of a Marylyn Monroe look-alike, sitting on a bomb in a short dress, sent it to her and told her what I wanted it to say, and she printed incredible graphics from it for my 2 B-24's and changed the dress to whatever color I wanted.

[f4u ausie]

Also a question for you weathering artists here. This birdcage is begging to get a 'broken in' look to her, but I've never weathered before. Can someone point me to a post of this version that's been done as reference? And is there a post or video you'd point me to that could help me achieve a simple weathered look? I'm not looking to go airbrush or anything yet. Maybe some charcoal and the like to start with. Also needs a pinup girl on the fuse! This thing is absolutely beautiful!

I had never weatherd b4,, ive had couple dynam warbirds in the learning prosess.. i now use a mix of a fine tip lead pencil ( panel lines) and the wifes make up( ye ye ) .i think its the eye liner mainly , has the curly brush... it works well 4 gun smoke dirt etc,, best part it smudges well grease oily look etc.. practice on some card board or similar.. finally a little baby powder brushed over... depends how may sorties u want it to look like its flown.brush strokes etc there r 2 types of weather damage... flying so weather front to back or stationary top to bottom,, as if under a tree In the pacific theatre (bird poop etc) start slowly its fun

[Hugh Wiedman]

Also a question for you weathering artists here. This birdcage is begging to get a 'broken in' look to her, but I've never weathered before. Can someone point me to a post of this version that's been done as reference? And is there a post or video you'd point me to that could help me achieve a simple weathered look? I'm not looking to go airbrush or anything yet. Maybe some charcoal and the like to start with. Also needs a pinup girl on the fuse! This thing is absolutely beautiful!

evensen007 and you don't necessarily need to do a clear coat first and the white primer. Depending on the color of the surface you are painting and how much trim tape you will use, you may just be able to paint right over the factory paint. For example, with your birdcage being a lighter blue grey, if you want to paint the underside say white (and you won't be using a lot of trim tape), then just paint right over the factory paint with the Rustoleum 2x white (gloss/satin/flat). It will cover well and should adhere well. On the other hand, if you are painting over say the darker factory blue of the bubble top and want it to be with say a light sky blue or gloss white, then I would recommend a primer. So for me it really depends on the factory base and how much trim tape I'm using that determines what I put on first. For example, I used a clear coat, followed by a white primer on my F-18 Canadian as the final strawberry red looked more accurate than if it was painted over the grey factory paint (plus I used a lot of trim tape and didn't want the factory paint to come off when I took the tape off). On my A-10 Arctic Camo, same process, but used a ton more trim tape and the clear coat and white primer helped keep the underlying factory paint from peeling when I removed the trim tape for the grey/white/black.

[EA-6B Geek]

Also a question for you weathering artists here. This birdcage is begging to get a 'broken in' look to her, but I've never weathered before. Can someone point me to a post of this version that's been done as reference? And is there a post or video you'd point me to that could help me achieve a simple weathered look? I'm not looking to go airbrush or anything yet. Maybe some charcoal and the like to start with. Also needs a pinup girl on the fuse! This thing is absolutely beautiful!

Watch this YouTube video of the RC Geek. I tried these techniques on my Freewing F-18, worked very well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcVcjtd2I8w

[Aros]

At the top of this thread click on "Filter" and "Photos Only." You will find some remarkable, stunning examples of what can be done with that beautiful clean canvas. Good luck and post photos when you can!

[RichJ53]

You've got a legitimate beef there. I have over 100 flights on mine and frankly never noticed till you just mentioned it. I just looked at my spare prop I always take out with it (fortunately never needed it but as Scarlet O'Hara said, "Tomorrow is another Day") and it's about the same. Short screws on the outside, longer inside and they definitely do not extend to the absolute bottom of the plate, maybe about 1 mm short. Can't remember how thick that bottom plate is, but it seemed to me to get enough threads into the plate to not cause much concern when I first put them together. All six screws extend into the plate the same distance, but stop just short of extending beyond the bottom of the plate, which I thought was appropriate. If yours don't even extend that far in, then yes, 'Houston, we've got a problem". And I have each of the six screws cranked in as hard as I can and they didn't strip out.

I don't know if you can see anything from these photos, but this prop has run fine for many flights.

I helped my friend Rob with his new prop hub that had issues with the screw stripping out. The length was just a tad bit short
MRC replaced the first set of hardware but it was the same problem. I ended installing a 2.5mm Helicoil

Rich

[Hugh Wiedman]

I helped my friend Rob with his new prop hub that had issues with the screw stripping out. The length was just a tad bit short
MRC replaced the first set of hardware but it was the same problem. I ended installing a 2.5mm Helicoil

Rich

Great work, and I see you have some "lockTight" or something in there as well. So I guess this is not an uncommon issue.