Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[Wild Man]

After turning 68 years young Tuesday I noticed that I am getting lazy in my old age LOL! To set the CG where I wanted it with the Admiral 6 cell 6000 50c Pro all the way forward I needed the extra two weights in the Cowl for the first few flights. So instead of taking the prop and the three screws that hold the Cowl on and taking it off I decided to just tape them in side the front of the cowl. with the 7000's , I can just take them out and not have to goof with the prop and cowl

[Hugh Wiedman]

After turning 68 years young Tuesday I noticed that I am getting lazy in my old age LOL! To set the CG where I wanted it with the Admiral 6 cell 6000 50c Pro all the way forward I needed the extra two weights in the Cowl for the first few flights. So instead of taking the prop and the three screws that hold the Cowl on and taking it off I decided to just tape them in side the front of the cowl. with the 7000's , I can just take them out and not have to goof with the prop and cowl

Happy Birthday Wild Man , not exactly what I would call "scale modeling" with the weights, but I'm the last one to call the police (although they usually are staked out in front of my hours 24 hours a day "watching me" , so wouldn't have to go far). Looks like a great way to test out the balance, wish I woulda' thought of that!

[Wild Man]

Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman I really don't care about EXACT scale I just want it to look nice. So you could call it semi scale. I have had many guys look it over and none have even noticed the weights in the cowl and they have looked right at the nose close up. I find it very amusing how small details like the weights inside the Cowl can be over looked so easy. Makes since to me, and I fined removing the weights for flying with the larger batteries to increase flying time with out messing with taking the prop and cowl off a time saver. but that's me. I always say to each their own way of doing things LOL!!!

[RodgerC]

Hi. My Corsar has just arrived!!! Does it matter which blue box connector the wing ribbon cables go into. There are no markings on the blue box to say left and right. Rodger C

[perfectplanes]

Hey Gents, I am going to extend my wing servo wire ribbons and was wondering if anyone has done that on this forum. I would need an 8 wire female to male ribbon. Is there one available? If so what part did you use and where can I get them.

[SanExup]

perfectplanes Amazon sells multi packs of servo extensions with different gauge wire and different lengths.

Not that I'm pushing Amazon. But they tend to be in stock...

[xviper]

Hi. My Corsar has just arrived!!! Does it matter which blue box connector the wing ribbon cables go into. There are no markings on the blue box to say left and right. Rodger C

No. They are mirror images so it doesn't matter.

[xviper]

Hey Gents, I am going to extend my wing servo wire ribbons and was wondering if anyone has done that on this forum. I would need an 8 wire female to male ribbon. Is there one available? If so what part did you use and where can I get them.

Although they are currently out of stock, you can get the ones from the AL-37. They are much longer:

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-70mm-90mm-edf-connection-wire

You might also look at other Freewing planes that use these cables and find one that's longer. If you're good at soldering, you could easily extend the wires yourself and make them as long as you like.

[xviper]

perfectplanes Amazon sells multi packs of servo extensions with different gauge wire and different lengths.

Not that I'm pushing Amazon. But they tend to be in stock...

Thanks for that information. I've been waiting for HobbyKing to get back in stock servo Y's and extension cables. I looked at Amazon and found them. Never thought to look there. However, I couldn't find any of these multiwire connection cables there.

[Wild Man]

Hi. My Corsar has just arrived!!! Does it matter which blue box connector the wing ribbon cables go into. There are no markings on the blue box to say left and right. Rodger C

Doesn't matter which way Sure would be nice if that was stated in the assembly instructions. There have been many in this area call me about that same thing and, I am sure there are many more that have the same question, some just plug them in and see what happens, if wrong switch then around, it is not going to hurt any thing IMHO

[evensen007]

You've got a legitimate beef there. I have over 100 flights on mine and frankly never noticed till you just mentioned it. I just looked at my spare prop I always take out with it (fortunately never needed it but as Scarlet O'Hara said, "Tomorrow is another Day") and it's about the same. Short screws on the outside, longer inside and they definitely do not extend to the absolute bottom of the plate, maybe about 1 mm short. Can't remember how thick that bottom plate is, but it seemed to me to get enough threads into the plate to not cause much concern when I first put them together. All six screws extend into the plate the same distance, but stop just short of extending beyond the bottom of the plate, which I thought was appropriate. If yours don't even extend that far in, then yes, 'Houston, we've got a problem". And I have each of the six screws cranked in as hard as I can and they didn't strip out.

I don't know if you can see anything from these photos, but this prop has run fine for many flights.

Argh. Received the replacement prop assembly from Motion today. It has the EXACT same issue as the first one. Even the longer screws won't lock on the outside holes of the plate. It's almost as if the outer plate holes are machined too large for the screws. You can actually push them back out from the underside. Guess I will look for the screws mentioned by another user that had the same issue above. Not a great start.

[Md_cobra]

On the cable issue. I used a sharpie and put a dot on the box and on one cable so I always plug it into the same slot.

[RCAV8R]

Argh. Received the replacement prop assembly from Motion today. It has the EXACT same issue as the first one. Even the longer screws won't lock on the outside holes of the plate. It's almost as if the outer plate holes are machined too large for the screws. You can actually push them back out from the underside. Guess I will look for the screws mentioned by another user that had the same issue above. Not a great start.

I haven't looked to see how far my screws go into the plate, but I had a similar frustration when I set mine up...I wanted to snug the screws and one in particular just gave up and stripped very early. I called MRC, and they sent a second set and it was the same issue. Always just one of the screws, and not all of them. I looked at after market screws and had difficulty finding a replacement that didn't have issues with the thickness, the head being too large, etc. I ended up just not tightening as much as I would have, and living with it. Very frustrating though!

Rob

[nuts-n-volts]

Not to be overbearing, but wouldn't just buying some longer bolts in the right thread size solve this? That and just a bit of medium locktight in the threaded backplate.

[Wild Man]

When doing a large quantity run on these plates. I can see that the tooling they use to do so will wear. and cause this kind of problem. I checked the plates on mine while assembling and the bolts were fine, went in flush and the plates were also ok. Sounds like a problem with quality control, and checking and changing out worn tooling

[paladin]

screws?

Button Head Hex Drive Screw, Passivated 18-8 Stainless Steel, M3 x 0.50 mm Thread, 30mm Long | McMaster-Carr

these i believe have the same head configuration but with an allan head. but 30mm long so after everything is tight cut off the extra. they are a higher grade bolt as well.

Joe

[RCAV8R]

I confess my memory about this is a bit fuzzy, but I remember getting the exact dimension off the description in the directions, and yet still had a problem with fit. (The length was going to have to be cut, but it just seemed that the one hole in the plate out of the bunch was not consistent.)

Rob

[Agwagon]

Had the same problem! Stripped out instantly. Replaced with slightly longer Allen head screws with no washer and red locktite. Motion knows this is a problem!

[RCAV8R]

Which is kind of funny, because after I had already complained the first time, and received the replacement for free, I complained further about what I was seeing and was told they had checked with others and confirmed they not had any problems before. My point was that I thought it was suspicious that on two different plates there was just one hole that seemed to strip easily, and always in the same position...the rest were fine. I knew I was guilty of liking things tight, so concluded I was just going too far.

I remember now that once it happened I could almost pull the screw through the hole without any resistance in the threads. I did get an after market screw of the same thickness and had the same result, so the only other fix would have to involve tapping it to the next size up.

Rob

[evensen007]

Not to be overbearing, but wouldn't just buying some longer bolts in the right thread size solve this? That and just a bit of medium locktight in the threaded backplate.

Not when the actual plate is machined incorrectly (or not at all in 1 case). Motion did have a bad run of these plates - some not having any machining/threads at all. I am awaiting yet another plate with properly machined threads and going on 2 weeks without being able to fly it.