Originally posted by TiredIronGRB
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Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread
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I noticed that Klink's Tanks has the same issue with the wing as mine.. it's not flush with the wing where the halves screw together.Originally posted by Ted7rns View PostA Tale of Two B-26 Shims.
We flew two B-26's today one with the Shim on the Horizontal Stabilizer (Klink's Tanks) and the other shim the motors up some, then just trim the elevators (Bird Dog Special). Both flew great and we had some fun today. Thanks for the video Kenny.
Our Squadron is growing, we are up to 4 B-26s.Just let me fly so I may be free
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Bearcat, Ted7ms, check the wing mounting pads (inside the fuselage) - many of us have found that they are not glued in very well, and can pull out. This will make it so the wing won't seat properly (and the whole wing can pull out).Originally posted by Ted7rns View Post
Yeah I know... Don't know how to fix it... Maybe the wires not tuck away enough.
That's some nice flying Ted! Great video!Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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I opened a ticket with Motion RC and sent in the pictures I have posted here, they said this is the first time they seen this, but now this is the second case of it we have seen.Originally posted by Ted7rns View Post
Yeah I know... Don't know how to fix it... Maybe the wires not tuck away enough.
I have checked everything and even measured the thickness of the wing and the inner wing thickness and checked for loose parts, everything is tight - and the wires are not outside of the tracks so there is no pinching going on there. If I can get somebody to measure the thickness of the inner wing where it bolts to the wing and then compare it with mine then it can help find the problem.
But Klink's tank flew fine like this correct?Just let me fly so I may be free
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It's the outer wing we are talking about and where it bolts on to the main wing..Originally posted by themudduck View Post
Bearcat, Ted7ms, check the wing mounting pads (inside the fuselage) - many of us have found that they are not glued in very well, and can pull out. This will make it so the wing won't seat properly (and the whole wing can pull out).
That's some nice flying Ted! Great video!Just let me fly so I may be free
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OK gotcha. I remember that from a previous post. Its a flush fit on the bottom but there's a gap at the top. Of course the wing mounts are on the bottom side. Do you think that its the wingtip that is causing the problem, or the wing center section? Just curious. I remember when I assembled mine, there was no place to put the wires and cramming them into the small pocket was the only way to do it. I commented back at the beginning that they could have left more room in the design...Originally posted by Bearcat View Post
It's the outer wing we are talking about and where it bolts on to the main wing..Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Kink's Tank flew fine. I will look at more this weekend.Originally posted by Bearcat View Post
I opened a ticket with Motion RC and sent in the pictures I have posted here, they said this is the first time they seen this, but now this is the second case of it we have seen.
I have checked everything and even measured the thickness of the wing and the inner wing thickness and checked for loose parts, everything is tight - and the wires are not outside of the tracks so there is no pinching going on there. If I can get somebody to measure the thickness of the inner wing where it bolts to the wing and then compare it with mine then it can help find the problem.
But Klink's tank flew fine like this correct?
Ted
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Bearcat..I cant speak on the b25/b26 comparison. My first 6 or so flights were without stabilizer. It flew ok in a moderate wind(10ish),pitch was stable but roll was not. I installed an a3L and it tamed the wing rock considerably. She stays grounded on a gusty day or 20ish winds(thats avanti time). I dont think a stabilizer will do anything to prevent a snaproll or a tip stall. I believe a rearward CG or large ELE deflections cause the snap. Limit ELE to 1/2 inch and dont go big on the expo so you dont get a sudden rush of ELE( 20% for me) It does drag its tail thru a turn so co-ordinate some rudder to make it look right.Still flying P.15, avanti(#2), mig 21, yak 130 70mm(#2), f35, f9f panther, a10 64mm, F8 crusader/ PA ultimate amr /HK skipper, durafly dh vampire, p 51,spit mk24, corsair, flybeam/ BH f86 50mm, deltawing 50mm/ HH su 26 mm,umx pitts,umx sbach, blade nano cp s,blade 450x, inductrix 200, inductrix pro, umx yak 54,umx f27 fpv/ electrifly 4s L39/ flyzone beaver/ volantix asw 28, /dynam B26
RIP.. roc hobby waco,strega #2(you will be missed), Fw 90mm eurofighter.
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Bearcat - I agree with CFIT, what he wrote is the best advice for your first flight. So:Originally posted by CFIT rob View PostI believe a rearward CG or large ELE deflections cause the snap. Limit ELE to 1/2 inch and dont go big on the expo so you dont get a sudden rush of ELE( 20% for me) It does drag its tail thru a turn so co-ordinate some rudder to make it look right.
- forward CG position
- limit elevator throw to 1/2 inch or less, with some expo
- coordinate turns with rudderMarc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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In addition to the above, I would add that it prefers calm weather, likes 3/4 throttle, and has no pitch up problems with flaps. In fact, it likes half flaps. Just make sure you check that the hinges are properly glued, Re-glue as needed,Originally posted by themudduck View Post
Bearcat - I agree with CFIT, what he wrote is the best advice for your first flight. So:
- forward CG position
- limit elevator throw to 1/2 inch or less, with some expo
- coordinate turns with rudder
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Thanks for the recommendation. I'll give it a try. Unfortunately we are supposed to have high winds this weekend.Originally posted by themudduck View PostVeltro, I agree with the rudder suggestion - I've been using a 35% mix since the beginning and find it very helpful for the same reason. ...
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The two of us with the horizontal stab shims are really happy with them. We aren't sure if we will do the engine shims.Originally posted by rifleman_btx View PostSo what seemed better the shims or the thrust angle? Interesting ideas :)
If I understand it correctly, the reason for the engine shims was that the plane would start to climb when he was on short final. He likes to use throttle-only to control decent for landing.
I believe he was running into a situation where he had the plane trimmed for normal flight, The up trim is compensation for the engine down thrust. As the plane slows to land, there isn't as much thrust and consequently the up trim makes it start climbing. Taking out a little down thrust eliminated the impact on his elevator trim setting.
I get the feeling either modification will do, although I don't know if he is still carrying a little up trim, which a lot of people on the forums didn't want to do.
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Earlier in the thread (way back, in the stone ages) another modeler determined that the horizontal stab didn't have the correct incidence in relation to the wing. The shim corrects the incidence. Without the shim, a lot of up-elevator trim is needed for level flight, and the plane just isn't flying correctly. With the shim, everything is balanced and happy. ommmmmmmmm.Originally posted by Veltro View Post
The two of us with the horizontal stab shims are really happy with them. We aren't sure if we will do the engine shims.
If I understand it correctly, the reason for the engine shims was that the plane would start to climb when he was on short final. He likes to use throttle-only to control decent for landing.
I believe he was running into a situation where he had the plane trimmed for normal flight, The up trim is compensation for the engine down thrust. As the plane slows to land, there isn't as much thrust and consequently the up trim makes it start climbing. Taking out a little down thrust eliminated the impact on his elevator trim setting.
I get the feeling either modification will do, although I don't know if he is still carrying a little up trim, which a lot of people on the forums didn't want to do.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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