Freewing 90mm F-22 Raptor - Official Thread

[Mizer67]

I've had electronics issues, some self-inflicted, some not.

Out of the 60+ Freewing servos I've had, I've never had one outright fail. I've had one FMS servo failure out of 50 or so in a tail retract, that was my first "cheap mass produced" servo failure, outside of a crash. I've lost one plane to a brown out, but I was running the ESC at the edge of it's capabilities (self inflicted). I've had exactly one receiver issue. It range tested fine on the ground. In the air...had issues and was lucky to get the plane back. I've had to swap out a number of retracts, particularly the rearward retracting Mirage nose retract, but I'm not flying off smooth paved surfaces and also have to deal with sand gumming up the works and learning to fly EDF jets too. I don't know many retracts that will hold up forever in those conditions and usually it still works, just stalls out trying to close the spring-loaded door. I look at replacing it as just a cost of flying.

Overall though, the electronics in these planes are pretty reliable in stock form. If they run for the first ~hour without issue, and pass initial checks, they're likely to outlive the plane barring damage or abuse. Now if you go over and above stock, and are reducing the margin(s) as I have at times, then all bets are off.

[Evan D]

The most common issue with retracts are ones that retract rearward and after a hard landing the next time it's retracted it won't come down. 99% of the time the strut or pin is bent and when the retract retracted it hits the retract case before the limit switch is hit. Since it didn't sense that it was up it won't go down. The fix is to push the strut in or "up" while flipping the switch and once you get it to extend bending the strut or pin forward or straight so the next time it hits the limit switch. That's the long version...

Short is once extended bend the strut straight...

Not a issue but something few do but helps the retract to live longer is applying a small amount of white grease to the jackshaft, the threaded rod inside. For the struts it's a good idea to take out the retract and then the set screws holding the strut in and apply loktite and reinstall before flight. I use red and have very few issues, most use blue and need to check and reapply now and then.

Hope that helps....

[Mizer67]

The most common issue with retracts are ones that retract rearward and after a hard landing the next time it's retracted it won't come down. 99% of the time the strut or pin is bent and when the retract retracted it hits the retract case before the limit switch is hit. Since it didn't sense that it was up it won't go down. The fix is to push the strut in or "up" while flipping the switch and once you get it to extend bending the strut or pin forward or straight so the next time it hits the limit switch. That's the long version...

Short is once extended bend the strut straight...

Not a issue but something few do but helps the retract to live longer is applying a small amount of white grease to the jackshaft, the threaded rod inside. For the struts it's a good idea to take out the retract and then the set screws holding the strut in and apply loktite and reinstall before flight. I use red and have very few issues, most use blue and need to check and reapply now and then.

Hope that helps....

Thanks Evan.

I've never bent or broken a nose gear strut pin, yet on one of these. The problems I've had with the Mirage (and F-5) have been getting it (the nose gear) to retract fully without stalling out while trying to shut the spring loaded door. The mains have been perfect through a couple hundred flights, but I've put four new nose gear retracts in.

Your point about the jackscrew I've experimented with. The grease helps - I use a dry lube for bike chains to try to limit the accumulation of more sand/debris from my "runway", which is more swamp/cow pasture than picture perfect grass. I've found in disassembling the retract the jackscrew/shaft that there are often a few rough threads, likely from sand/debris; perhaps that and the spring resistance it hits are too much for the tiny motor. Unfortunately, there's no replacements for any of the parts and it's easier just to replace the $11 retract. I've never nailed the issue down and eliminated it yet, but if I get 50-75 flights out of a nose retract in those conditions, that's good enough for me. If I ever get completely fed up, I'd first modify the plane to remove the spring loaded door.

[T-CAT]

I put another eight flights on the 8S F-22 today. Now that I have it dialed in the way I want it, it is a blast pushing the envelope of it's possibilities.

I dedicated today as "slow flight day". We had some decent wind, so I figured that would make it even more fun to fly it on the backside of the power curve. On a 8S 5000mah LiPo (6S and 2S in series), several flights were in the average 6 minute mark with an end voltage of 3.79 per cell. Flights consisted of a few high speed passes, cruising at partial throttle, and having fun remaining in slow flight around the pattern. I think that's definitely respectable flight time.

I couldn't be more happy with the flight character of the jet. I have 1125g worth of batteries installed and it is mind blowing how slow it can fly around. It's a blast to watch it pass by at walking speed in high alpha. It is the only 90mm high voltage Freewing EDF jet that I've flown where the aircraft virtually laughs at the extra weight. The airframe is special in that regard. Then, when you want to transition out of slight flight, the 8S power system does it well, and the high speed passes are respectable also. This is a fun aircraft and looks spicy as it cooks on by.

I haven't added taileron functionality yet, or thrust vectoring, but I could imagine the possibilities on this airframe.

[Alpha]

When I saw Tim's fly with 12s 5000 plus JP brakes, I was frankly surprised. I'll keep making 'em and you guys keep pushing 'em to their limits.

Foil needs a friend.

[T-CAT]

When I saw Tim's fly with 12s 5000 plus JP brakes, I was frankly surprised. I'll keep making 'em and you guys keep pushing 'em to their limits.

Foil needs a friend.

LOL. Isn't is classic how well it takes the extra weight?! Johnny also flies his T-45 90mm with a 10,000mah 6S LiPo and a 360 camera attached.

Freewing and Motion nailed the awesome flight character of the Raptor. It's a blast, and flying during a weekday is significantly more fun simply because of the extra freedom we have to maneuver. That's a luxury weekend flying simply doesn't afford.

Please keep making them, and we will no doubt continuing pushing them proudly. Foil does need a friend, yes, yes it does . A true "besty".

[Skosh25]

Powered up my 8s for the first time last night. ESC isn't counting number of cells. just one long higher-pitched beep. But the system has power and the EDF works. BEC is working fine. What's the issue? I plugged in 1 Admiral 6s 5000 just to check servos etc (2s is still in the mail). Is that the issue- is it looking for 8s since that's how it's programmed? or is there something else?

[T-CAT]

Powered up my 8s for the first time last night. ESC isn't counting number of cells. just one long higher-pitched beep. But the system has power and the EDF works. BEC is working fine. What's the issue? I plugged in 1 Admiral 6s 5000 just to check servos etc (2s is still in the mail). Is that the issue- is it looking for 8s since that's how it's programmed? or is there something else?

The 8S capable PNP ESC can use a minimum of 5S LiPo voltage to initialize, so the 6S pack you plugged into it should allow the ESC to initialize. This ESC appears to have an odd (in my opinion) way of sounding off the voltage via designated "beeps". For example, one long beep equals a 5S LiPo voltage, and one short beep equals 1S LiPo voltage. So, if you plugged in your 6S LiPo you will hear one long beep followed by 1 short beep. Once you plug in 8S LiPo voltage, you will hear one long beep signifying 5S, plug three short beeps to signify three additional cells for 8S total voltage.

It doesn't appear Motion has put a manual online for this ESC on any of their product pages (there is only a manual for the external BEC), and I'm not sure if they have an official manual for it.

However, I was able to find a FlyFun HV ESC manual in a Google search and although it doesnt appear to state "150A ESC" in the manual, it appears some of the programming aspects could be the same. Once again, it isn't official and Motion will have to clarify what it correct and what isn't, so this is all at your own risk.

[Skosh25]

The 8S capable PNP ESC can use a minimum of 5S LiPo voltage to initialize, so the 6S pack you plugged into it should allow the ESC to initialize. This ESC appears to have an odd (in my opinion) way of sounding off the voltage via designated "beeps". For example, one long beep equals a 5S LiPo voltage, and one short beep equals 1S LiPo voltage. So, if you plugged in your 6S LiPo you will hear one long beep followed by 1 short beep. Once you plug in 8S LiPo voltage, you will hear one long beep signifying 5S, plug three short beeps to signify three additional cells for 8S total voltage.

It doesn't appear Motion has put a manual online for this ESC on any of their product pages (there is only a manual for the external BEC), and I'm not sure if they have an official manual for it.

However, I was able to find a FlyFun HV ESC manual in a Google search and although it doesnt appear to state "150A ESC" in the manual, it appears some of the programming aspects could be the same. Once again, it isn't official and Motion will have to clarify what it correct and what isn't, so this is all at your own risk.

Thanks, that's exactly what I experienced (long + one short). As a newbie to 8S, a manual/instructions for this setup would be helpful. I agree the ESC voltage sounding is odd and unlike any other I've used.

[G8dget]

Anyone with closeup photos of their trust vector mods?

My F22 is on the way. Been reading up for common issues. Anyone disabled the folding main wheels? I hear it’s a problem when it collapses on landing causing the plane to veer off the runway.

Also, the small air intakes below the fuse, can they/should they be closed off? We fly off a sandy patch. I wouldn’t want my fan ingesting rocks and sand.

Btw here’s a video I did chasing a few raptors.

[Evan D]

On the other site.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...2#post40691323
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1073

Video

https://youtu.be/0UtXjl_rg4c

[ridgerunner]

... Btw here’s a video I did chasing a few raptors. ...

Well done video! (and chase flying + nice colors)

And welcome to HobbySquawk!

(Your vid makes me want to go buy a Raptor! )

[Alphonso]

On the other site.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...2#post40691323
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1073

Video
https://youtu.be/0UtXjl_rg4c

Hi Evan, I was just going to link to your TV mod 😊

[Evan D]

On the other site he asked but the question was specifically about Jeremys version...

Hi Evan, I was just going to link to your TV mod 😊

[Scale Master]

What do I do with more than enough time, and also while waiting on some parts? I mix movies and characters into one model jet, ha-ha. The Transformers Starscream on the top side and Ironman on the botton.

I still need to weather, rivet, etc., but that shouldn't take too long. After adding a 45mm nose wheel, it also changes the look of the front significantly for the better. I wasn't liking the Monster Truck look with the Avanti front wheel on there as it comes.

Cool dude! Below is a video of mine converted to Turbine With an X-45 (10lb thrust). She flies perfect!

[Oachidori]

Hello, i just made a mistake.I wanted to pull out the cable from the two cable which connect the wings to blue box but i didn't realize to do in other way. Anyway at the moment the cables are stuck inside and i want to know if there is a way to pull out. I want to put my own cable because i want to use my receiver directly, and i don t need these cables anymore. I don't want to put lights or anything else. Any idea?

[crxmanpat]

That cavity is very tight and curved, and if you've got the connector stuck inside there, it's going to be hell to get back out. About your only option is to cut the connector off the exposed end, then use some angled pliers to fish out the connector stuck inside. If you're not going to use the multi ribbon, you should be OK. But before you pull the wiring out, attach a string to the cut end so that you have something to guide in the new cables.

[Evan D]

Too late now but I taped the connector to the wires. This does two things, keeps the connector in line with the wire so its the small side coming through. It also tapes over square parts of the connector so it doesn't catch on the foam. I did it to two F-22's and many other planes since I remove the ribbon cables and makes it very easy.

Also tie a string before you pull it through, even a few strings. These are good if you do get it stuck to pull it back out and also to help pull the extensions you'll need through.

[Oachidori]

That cavity is very tight and curved, and if you've got the connector stuck inside there, it's going to be hell to get back out. About your only option is to cut the connector off the exposed end, then use some angled pliers to fish out the connector stuck inside. If you're not going to use the multi ribbon, you should be OK. But before you pull the wiring out, attach a string to the cut end so that you have something to guide in the new cables.

You are right!! Was a little difficult but i did it!! Now i wait the batteries and after that i will make it!

[Birdseed]

I’ve a couple of questions..
I’ve a 6s F22 but have just ordered the 8s F22...what size and more importantly weight of packs are people using?

Secondly, Scale Master, what did you do to the rear end of your F22? I’ve a xicoy 45 I was going to put in my F22 which originally had the 6s fan. I’ve a grumania single pipe. But it looks you’ve removed the entire foam rear end and replaced the area with metal. Is that correct? Some more pics of what you’ve done would be great.