Well, I been called worse. 
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Depending on age, some people are unable to think critically. They need to be led around by the nose on everything in life. This is why a lot of people like that will never make it as pilots. And thank God some only try to fly the models. Can you imagine the mess we'd have if they were ever allowed to become real pilots?Comment
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One other thing to add, generally speaking, the younger they are, the more messed up they are in a lot of cases...
It's really sad to watch.Comment
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Back on topic LOL. Been raising the throw on my elevator and rudder to get into more extreme maneuvers. So far the plane remains stable throughout. I haven't had this much fun with a particular model in a long time.Comment
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I have just bought the 8S second hand, but without the ESC. The guy replaced the original ESC, which he said never really worked well, with an expensive Kontronik one, which he wants to keep.
The model is almost like new, and we agreed on a very nice price.
Awaiting the arrival of the model (he's shipping it to me), I'm looking for an ESC. I have an 120A HV Yep is another model that I could use, but I haven't found any figures yet on current draw of the 8S combo. The standard ESC is 150A, so I'm wondering if I should get a 150A one too. I doubt if this combo draws more than 120A, but does anyone have some real world numbers on this?Comment
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I can't give you any "real world" numbers on this EDF, only what's published on RC Castle. I'm using this combo in mine:
https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...roduct_id=8698
It's using the FMS Predator 120A HV ESC with reverse. Although it's rated at 120A, it can sustain up to 150A for about 10 seconds. The fan draws 108A. The reverse feature is really nice to have on jets.
I've also been using this system in my 8S 90mm Yak 130 for over a year and this system is about to go into my Freewing F-18 Blue Angels jet.Comment
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Thanks, xviper.
Maybe I'll just pull out the Yep 120A HV from my 90mm Yak 130 and do an engine run-up on the F22 with that one to see how many amps it actually pulls. If it pulls around 110A at WOT, I could live with it on a 120 ESC.
Did you have to remove foam to fit the FMS unit?Comment
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I think I'll just leave the standard Freewing 8S EDF combo in and test it with a 120A ESC and my current 4S 5000 batteries (Turnigy Nano) to get an idea of what I'm up against.
I just ordered a new SR10 Pro receiver, which will offer me exactly what I need for this model. It has dual power supply input, which will allow me to add two 20A SBECs that I have available, one on the first 4S flight battery (the one that supplies the true "ground" of the 8S voltage) and one on a separate 3S receiver battery.
I started using gyros on some of my faster models, because my eyesight has been degrading in the last couple of years, and I get more and more trouble with judging orientation. The auto-level (I call it the "panic" function) mode of this receiver allows me to return the model to straight and level by the push of a button. I don't think this model needs any more stabilization than that, but it might come in handy in more turbulent weather.
And the 10 channels won't be overkill when I bypass the Blue Box and start using separate channels for everything, plus a channel for the gear doors too when I implement my own sequencer.
And the thing that I like most about this latest generation of stabilized receivers, is that you can set it up from your radio, through LUA scripts. No more connecting to a PC to change a setting. Setup and fine tuning at the field is a lot more efficient now.Comment
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No, sorry, by combo I meant EDF unit plus motor. The guy who sold it to me had to remove the original ESC because it malfunctioned, and he put in a Kontronik, which he wants to keep. And the original ESC had an external uBEC I believe, which I don't particularly trust either (I prefer sBEC).
Meanwhile I've been reading more into this and the rcg thread, and found someone writing about current around 100A for the standard 8S setup. That reassures me that a 120A ESC will be able to cope. Combined with two 20A sBECs, I should be safe. I found a Hobbywing Platinum HV 120A for a very good price too, so I can start testing as soon as everything arrives.
I downloaded all STL files for the 3D-print parts, and I think I'll start with the nose gear brace, as we have a grass runway. Maybe also the nose gear support back plate too (the rectangular part that goes under the cockpit).
I also read about cutting one ring off the springs all around, to prevent the pogo dance on landing? Maybe maiden first, to see whether it is a problem on our runway or not.Comment
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I’ve only flown this plane off GeoTex and all landings have been quite smooth. This is not likely going to be a grass plane for me.
I just finished a Flex Innovations F-100 and put an 8s fan with a Hobbywing 120HV, V5, with reverse into it. Haven’t flown it yet due to weather. This ESC is virtually identical to the FMS Predator 120HV with reverse.Comment
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I've flow different EDF models on our grass runway, and the only problem I've had so far is the takeoff distance of some (the SU35 and the L39). Shifting the CoG back somehow helped, but on the SU35 I've upgraded the EDFs to FMS units (still waiting for remaiden). Landing was never a problem.
I have the 64mm version of the F22, and I know how much of a floater it is on landing, so I know what to look out for. But with full flaps it seems that it can be landed on a relatively short distance.
The extra thrust is what I chose the 8S version for, to make sure I have enough room for takeoff. From what I've seen in videos, that shouldn't be a problem. Our runway is about 100m (300ft) long, but there is a deep ditch on both ends, which makes that overshooting isn't an option at all, unless you have spare retracts available. (ask me how I know)Comment
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Here is my F22 lit up like a Christmas tree! I counted and there are 11 different lights on it so I can see it in the air. 6 Stemwings formation lights, 1 pilot HUD light, 1 high intensity drone light and 3 red, green, white lights and it’s still hard to see. I know it’s scale and I really tried to make it work with lights so I wouldn’t have to paint it but it looks like painting or putting and FpV camera are the only other solutions I have.
Any paint scheme recommendations ?Comment
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Another split screen video showing what I'm doing with my hands on the Tx while flying ^^
You can find a link to the slow motion version in the video description (although it is not published yet, but you should be able to access and watch it already if interested). ;)
HUD light for the win!
I did that to mine too!
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Slow-mo version of my latest video:
(to better appreciate stick movements)
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