Official Freewing F/A-18C Hornet 90mm EDF Thread
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Elbee
Yeah man, seriously nice work
Where can I find the stl files,such as nose gear door and the antennas.
I searched through thingiverse but couldn't find it
could you please tell where can i find it.
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Prusa Printables:Elbee
Yeah man, seriously nice work
Where can I find the stl files,such as nose gear door and the antennas.
I searched through thingiverse but couldn't find it
could you please tell where can i find it.

https://www.printables.com/@Stevie_14806/models
Choose: Open files in Prusa Slicer.
There might be an STL Download as well, but it's easier just to drop to Prusa Slicer from the Printables.
Best, Steve"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
AMA#116446Comment
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Hey gents, what's the easiest way to access the ESC? The cheater intake section doesn't appear to have any screws to easily access the ESC. Pop off carefully with a tool? My RX still is working fine, all the lights, control surfaces, gear...No issue. But the ESC does not make those series of tones when I plug in the battery and there is no throttle at all. I need to access the ESC and most likely replace it.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
AMA#116446Comment
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If I'm not mistaken, I think you have to access it by removing the edf cover and take the fan out to get better access to the ESC.Hey gents, what's the easiest way to access the ESC? The cheater intake section doesn't appear to have any screws to easily access the ESC. Pop off carefully with a tool? My RX still is working fine, all the lights, control surfaces, gear...No issue. But the ESC does not make those series of tones when I plug in the battery and there is no throttle at all. I need to access the ESC and most likely replace it.
So glad you found it, now the investigation begins. If you dare, I'll help you mess it up again as it seems I'm pretty good at that.
3 possible issues IMO:
1) RX got loose (unlikely)
2) Check RX orientation and confirm it was correct
3) Signal loss, in watching the video that may have happened. Assuming you placed the two antennas going forward. Keep in mind the signal reception area around the active end is like a donut, so if both are lined up along the fuse, you'll loose signal when it is flying directly at you or away. You should place one that way, and the 2nd up/down or left/right. With EDF's, I always add a sattelite RX as well with 2 more antenna. In the F18 I placed it behind the battery. With those 4 antennae, every possible directional plane is covered. Lipos, edf ESC's and any carbon fiber raise hell with signal, and with only 2 antennas in front, the battery and carbon tubes in the fuse block signal aft (where you were standing). You should also check for Frame Losses and Holds after flight in your TX telemetry. In the video, to me it looked like a couple points where you got a Hold.
Just some random thoughts to pass on to the NTSB
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: EDF's: Mig 29 TV "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, SU-27 90mm 8S:F22 Red Lion/EuroFighterBronzeTiger/F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet/F16/F4 Jolly Rodgers & Blue Angel, 80&90 TV Avanti, Viper, Stinger 90. Props: 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, B-24, 1700 P-51, 60" Beast & P2 Bipe, Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 62" Extra 300, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, 62" EdgeComment
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Good stuff! When I opened up the battery tray the RX is still facing forward, flat, all servo leads still firmly plugged in place. One of the antenna wires is facing aft and one facing forward (see photo). I may even have a spare satellite antenna I can use to add to the configuration. I should have done that to begin with.3 possible issues IMO:
1) RX got loose (unlikely)
2) Check RX orientation and confirm it was correct
3) Signal loss, in watching the video that may have happened. Assuming you placed the two antennas going forward. Keep in mind the signal reception area around the active end is like a donut, so if both are lined up along the fuse, you'll loose signal when it is flying directly at you or away. You should place one that way, and the 2nd up/down or left/right. With EDF's, I always add a sattelite RX as well with 2 more antenna. In the F18 I placed it behind the battery. With those 4 antennae, every possible directional plane is covered. Lipos, edf ESC's and any carbon fiber raise hell with signal, and with only 2 antennas in front, the battery and carbon tubes in the fuse block signal aft (where you were standing). You should also check for Frame Losses and Holds after flight in your TX telemetry. In the video, to me it looked like a couple points where you got a Hold.
Just some random thoughts to pass on to the NTSB
Hopefully it's just an ESC replacement and she's back up and ready to go for a second attempt. I will be pushing the battery forward to get closer to manufacturer's recommended. It really did act tail heavy from the start. I couldn't seem to get that nose down to control her and bring her back to me which is why she kept flying away from me until the crash.
I'm determined! Especially with this exceptional good fortune thanks to my search crew!
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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Hey Steve, really great work! The parts are superb.
Prusa Printables:
https://www.printables.com/@Stevie_14806/models
Choose: Open files in Prusa Slicer.
There might be an STL Download as well, but it's easier just to drop to Prusa Slicer from the Printables.
Best, Steve
I was wondering which pilot figure did you use in your F18 cockpit?
Telling from the pictures, the pilot is not included?
Best greetings.
AlexComment
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Hey Alex,
The pilot body is from Max Grueter Designs and I found it on CGTrader, also Greuter has some things on Cults3D, I think.
There are a couple pilot figures that are similar and less expensive around that you could use.
I modified the OEM pilot head by removing a "V" shaped section out of the back, pinching and gluing it together, and printing a modified cylinder shape for a new neck.
Sounds strange, I know, but it worked as I liked the general design of the OEM pilot head.
Happy 4th of July.
Best, Steve
"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
AMA#116446Comment
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https://www.printables.com/model/134...le-rails-lh_rh
Hornet Honchos,
There's been some renewed interest in the 3DP missile rails for this model.
Okay, just one guy, but we all know him.
I have posted my version I used on my Hornet on Prusa Printables. See Link.
Better late than never, I said I would about 2 years ago, "Doh!"
My set comes as 4 printed parts each side and screws in place in the OEM location.
I drilled and tapped the OEM Mount points to 2-56 (or 4-40
) and used countersunk nylon screws from the hardware store,
It should be noted there is no mounting provision for Aim-9s, though you could add those with your own mod.
Best, LB
"I am having an extraordinary ordinary life."~Lucky B*st*rd~
"Find satisfaction in the process rather than an outcome."~Anonymous~
AMA#116446Comment

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