Originally posted by RCAV8R
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Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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Btw dirty, what size are you saving your stl on thingiverse in? 1:1?
Always seems I need to scale down a lot so curiousFreewing A-10 turbine conversion: http://fb.me/FreewingA10TurbineConversion
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Wow, how hard was that landing? That's a pretty good bend! I hope they aren't that weak of a strut.Originally posted by zorkahn View PostSo, my first flight on the new upgrade main gear did not go well. After a semi-hard landing the left gear is bent. Any idea if the bent part is replaceable?
Mark
I have the new struts, but haven't installed them yet. I haven't had the need to do so just yet, but I am curious to see how dependable and strong they are. Any video of the landing?
Sorry that happened to you! I checked that part, as I'm sure you did too, but I didn't see it.
I did see that the gear is out of stock. Maybe it'll be on the truck that just showed up!!
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Those struts are really robust so that was more than the claimed semi-hard landing.;)Originally posted by Sky Wolf View Post
Wow, how hard was that landing? That's a pretty good bend! I hope they aren't that weak of a strut.
I have the new struts, but haven't installed them yet. I haven't had the need to do so just yet, but I am curious to see how dependable and strong they are. Any video of the landing?
Sorry that happened to you! I checked that part, as I'm sure you did too, but I didn't see it.
I did see that the gear is out of stock. Maybe it'll be on the truck that just showed up!!
Guys in the club I used to belong to often claimed the landing "wasn't too bad" when in all reality it looked like they just dropped a bowling ball from 10 feet. :Scared:Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Hey Guys...so after I lost that pesky screw that is so critical to holding the NG wheel assembly in line with the strut and nose steering (see my earlier post-previous page), I found an aftermarket screw that works. The interesting thing is there are two holes machined in each side of the strut but I only remember seeing one screw there. So I put two screws in with loctite red and I would recommend that for everybody. If only one screw is in, and it vibrates out, you have no steering! Just sayin' :Sick2: Rob3 Photos
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When I printed the nozzles, I think I had to scale down by about 10x (not exactly 10, but in the neighborhood. Without scaling, the part was hugeOriginally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
I draw the parts in mm and in 1/10 scale. What scale factor do you have to apply with the thingiverse files?Freewing A-10 turbine conversion: http://fb.me/FreewingA10TurbineConversion
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Rob:Originally posted by RCAV8R View PostHey Guys...so after I lost that pesky screw that is so critical to holding the NG wheel assembly in line with the strut and nose steering (see my earlier post-previous page), I found an aftermarket screw that works. The interesting thing is there are two holes machined in each side of the strut but I only remember seeing one screw there. So I put two screws in with loctite red and I would recommend that for everybody. If only one screw is in, and it vibrates out, you have no steering! Just sayin' :Sick2: Rob
Thank you for sharing the info and pictures! I just checked and I do have two screws (grub screws) that I will take out and red loctite in place. But to be safe, I also just ordered the Dubro cap screws that you posted. My gut is saying that maybe the Dubro screws are better suited for landing gear security than the grub (set) screws originally installed? Your thoughts? Thanks Rob.
Regards,
Jim
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Hey Jim...Check again as to the placement of the screws (they shouldn't be grub/set screws). This is the stock NG (oleo). And at the top of the scissor link is a collar that fits over the rest of the strut. It can swivel freely but for a small machine screw that is in the side of the collar (the original is a Phillips head). It needs to be a cap screw because the head holds the screw back from going all the way into the piston and binding it as it moves. There is a set/grub screw right below the shock absorber that goes into the frame around the wheel. I'm not sure what it does. And there are two grub screws at the base of the strut holding it to the pin coming out of the retract...those I use Loctite Blue on as they do need to come off occasionally.Originally posted by Jimrc73 View Post
Rob:
Thank you for sharing the info and pictures! I just checked and I do have two screws (grub screws) that I will take out and red loctite in place. But to be safe, I also just ordered the Dubro cap screws that you posted. My gut is saying that maybe the Dubro screws are better suited for landing gear security than the grub (set) screws originally installed? Your thoughts? Thanks Rob.
Regards,
Jim
I agree about replacing screws! As was discussed in an earlier post about the grub screws always stripping out, I have replaced all my landing gear screws with Du Bro screws (except the screws at the base of the upgraded mains, which have to be short), and my Stinger 90 as well. I hope this helps...it sure got my attention last weekend! Rob
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Hey Mark...by any chance have you inspected your retract underneath the metal mounting plate? Given the amount of stress I would be surprised if it wasn't cracked, and it is out of sight due to the metal plate. I had to replace my NG retract which cracked due to a relatively hard bounce, so it doesn't take a whole lot to do it. RobOriginally posted by zorkahn View PostSo, my first flight on the new upgrade main gear did not go well. After a semi-hard landing the left gear is bent. Any idea if the bent part is replaceable?
Mark
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Rob:Originally posted by RCAV8R View Post
Hey Jim...Check again as to the placement of the screws (they shouldn't be grub/set screws). This is the stock NG (oleo). And at the top of the scissor link is a collar that fits over the rest of the strut. It can swivel freely but for a small machine screw that is in the side of the collar (the original is a Phillips head). It needs to be a cap screw because the head holds the screw back from going all the way into the piston and binding it as it moves. There is a set/grub screw right below the shock absorber that goes into the frame around the wheel. I'm not sure what it does. And there are two grub screws at the base of the strut holding it to the pin coming out of the retract...those I use Loctite Blue on as they do need to come off occasionally.
I agree about replacing screws! As was discussed in an earlier post about the grub screws always stripping out, I have replaced all my landing gear screws with Du Bro screws (except the screws at the base of the upgraded mains, which have to be short), and my Stinger 90 as well. I hope this helps...it sure got my attention last weekend! Rob
Thank you for your response, and you are 100% correct. After I posted to you earlier, I got down and took a closer look and you are correct - they are Phillips head screws. My bad for taking a look from 3 feet away (and old eyes!), and I looked at the wrong screw at first too. So, when my cap screws come in, I will replace them. I can also tell you that the current Phillip screws are in there tight, but perhaps after a couple of "less-than-optimum" landings, that could work its way loose. My plan is to maiden the bird next week - raining every day for the next 5 days :Angry:. Thanks again Rob for all of the great information and pictures!
Regards,
Jim
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Absolutely beautiful Rob - glad to hear about the awesome flights!Originally posted by RCAV8R View PostThree more flights today, #19-21. Beautiful day, took some pics on the runway of my finished paint job and had more opportunity to play with maneuvers and landings. What a great plane! Here's my cover shot and some random detail! Rob
Regards,
Jim
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