Thanks for the push rod and additional flap information. I was scratching my head a bit on my flap push rods but you guys gave me the information that I was needing...Thank you!!
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Factory can fix the manual or slip a service bulliten in the manual or box about the rods. Probably already doing so. A pilot suggested that they instruct the modeler to plug the BEC into the receiver and not the control board ( By accident ) so their all over that. Decal application method was also suggested. Its been said that MRC will fix the wording in certain areas also.Constructive customer feedback is of utmost importance and one of the reasons this Jet
exists in the first place. Rock on MRC and let their
Be no Last place !
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Just more A-10 madness to drool over. Look at how this sucker floats in!
My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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Wow, pretty impressive. Watching that reminds me that I might have to change out the trailing link struts at some point for more scale looking ones with the regular functional oleos. I fully understand the plane was designed for tall grass and I appreciate that but I don't really need that on my field. My FW P-38, FMS P-51, and LX P-40 all work just fine for me and I don't have to sweat every landing. With a more scale strut you could also add at least the upper part of the gear door. Looks to me like you would only have to change out the strut itself and not the retract unit. If anyone has already checked out a gear that would work on the hog, I'm all ears. Maybe an MRC upgrade/option?:Cool:BradComment
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Hey guys ... quick question for those of you that went with Callie Graphics decals.....
A quick side x side of the stock vs. the Callie decals shows obvious differences in the actual size of the graphic. Anyone else notice that? I'm mostly concerned about the nose art but at the same time, don't want it to look to "off". Thought I'd ask before I begin.
I ordered 1/10 scale from Callie based on the 1/10th markings on the freewing box.
So ... did I miss something? Anyone else notice this?Comment
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I made a short video of the nose gear door after the mixing I did in the transmitter. I unplugged the nose gear door from the main mixing board, plugged it into a free channel into the receiver, mixed that channel (with a delay on the closing after the gear is retracted and with a bit of slow down function so the servo doesn't move the door so quickly) with the retracts, and now the nose gear door stays open when the gear is extended like the full sized A-10. :Cool:Comment
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Alpha, I did not do this modification that you described above, but it's good to reference it because the topic has to do with getting the nose gear door to stay open while the gear is extended. Since I went through the method of just doing the mixing in my TX (removed nose gear door servo lead from the main board, plugged it into an open receiver channel, and mixed it with the retract channel), the board is likely still sending power to that nose gear port on the board to close the gear door after the gear is extended. However, since the servo lead isn't attached to the board in the nose gear door port, it can't, and that's good. For safety though, I want to see if you found any issue with that via testing. I would assume that as long as nothing touches the open/revealed pins at the nose gear door port on the main board, there wouldn't likely be any way to short anything out, correct?Also, to follow up on those asking if the forward nose door can stay open while the nose gear is deployed, here's something we've worked on at the factory that will allow that functionality. To be clear, if your A-10 door currently closes with the nose gear deployed, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MOD. I'm still testing it to verify that it really is as simple as soldering a jumper wire between these two points, and doesn't require a re-flash of the board itself. If and when I verify it's that simple, then I'll post it here and the handful of us who want that functionality can decide if they want to attempt the soldering job. Even then, attempting this mod will void the board's warranty. I'm more so showing it just to demonstrate another example of us trying to incorporate customer feedback into our aircraft. We can't always chase down the rabbit hole on every request, but we do try to tackle a fair amount of them.
I hope you're enjoying my little bird, everyone! :DComment
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Now that I have pretty much overcome the "new plane" fear factor, I think it is actually getting easier to fly;-)Comment
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Definitely looks awesome! Great mod.Comment
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Was watching a Radian XL video when the idea hit me. For a modest price you could remove the blade spoilers and retrofit them into the A 10 wings to help slow it down. Probably even recouping some of your investment by selling the XL wing without them ? Just pull up any Radian XL video and watch how they stop forward movement really well.
Here is a link to the wing http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFL5502
Blade spoilers in action at the end https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...7BB5&FORM=VIRE Look at 4 : 50
LOL Ryan and Mike have a video on it also https://www.motionrc.com/collections...-bnf#video-tab LOOK at 7 min. and one min.
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Directions, I don't need directions, I just looked at the rods and figured it out. I mechanically centered all control surfaces with all trims centered ensuring servos were centered themselves. Then adjusted the rods accordingly. Everything is now spot on. Just waiting for the maiden. Was going to do it today but to breezy and x-wind. I did taxi it around to get the feel of ground handling. Can't wait to see this B1RD in the air.Comment
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