Pull the plastic cover loose and tighten the set screws that secure the strut to the strut pin or worst case if the slop is between the strut pin and retract mechanism you will have to remove it to get to the set screws.
Official Freewing Twin 80mm/90mm A-10 Thunderbolt II Thread
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Check the set screws on both the strut and etract trunnion that affix to the strut pin.Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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was just looking at the gear on the FMS plane..wonder if the mains would work on this one? they look to be about the same size,maybe a little taller.www.TSHobbies.com
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Thanks for getting back to me Alpha, the heavier gauge springs sound good although I would prefer and gladly pay for functional oleo struts. What do you think about T.I.'s idea of reversing the struts? BradHey Brad,
We plan on releasing a different gauge spring option for the A-10 soon. I've been testing it here in Asia with Freewing recently. I remember the days when all my aircraft had plain steel wire for struts, even on my first BVM Bandit and Electra. Then suspension came into vogue, and now it's about digging even deeper to widen the pot for performance along a larger range of runway surfaces.
Regarding the nose strut question, I should have that answer soon. Getting pricing and availability on the part is taking some time.
p.s. I really love those clear domes, RCjetdude!Comment
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I have the same on one of my flaps, and was wondering the same.Hi I finally got my A-10 together and decals applied except the nose art. I was hooking all the leads to to receiver and centering all the control surfaces and notices a few things. First thing was I had to unscrew a good bit of the linkage from the ball link to center the control surfaces. There is only about 1/4 inch of thread in some linkages which I think should be fine. Another thing I noticed was that one of my flaps when lowered was lower then the other three. At half flaps it would be about 1/16 inch and at full flaps it would be about 1/4 inch. I am thinking this could be due to servo arm not being centered in the same position as other servos. Would this cause a problem when landing? I really don't want to drill a small in wing on an angle to remove servo arm but if that is only way to fix it guess I have too
BillyComment
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Verify that you have the correct push rod on the correct side. Without the rods on, check and see where the servo arms are. They should be near identical. The instructions for the rods are reversed as explained earlier in the thread. I had no issues with my flaps. I just needed to set the throws on the TX. I just figured mine out without the book.Comment
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Shirty, that looks incredible! Anxious to see your unveiling ceremony for us. I wish I had airbrush painting skills. I'd already have mine done. Hope the rain and cold stop for you soon so we can see your maiden! Still nice and 'HOT" here in Texas :Scared:
Just got the clear coat and to modify the battery area to hold a couple of graphenes stacked like tcats n that's it. Not sure I want to win this award but it's looking likely! (the shame... lmao). But oh well it's been worth it, I love how it's come out - just hope I don't piledrive it into the ground on maiden now lol) forecast is still rain, some rain, and a bit more rain for the rest of the week. Fired her up though, did my programming, calibrated esc's etc, all looks good. (Driving around my floor). Hope we can do the clear coat this week, I'm chomping at the bit to have a fly with it. Can't wait to see what it looks like in the air. Gotta say all this bouncy talk as me a little worried, but guess we'll see. Even if I am last to break a nosegear haha :)
domes look very cool boys.
Tail art is done, here's a sneak preview... ;)
(colour in the pic is not quite right it's raining so not much light, but the grey is the stock grey)
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No, it's probably the one servo has the arm placed a tooth or two out- one of my inner flap ones was like that. That, and not tight main gear set screws that resulted in a high speed excursion off the runway (with damage) has me disappointed in FW's QC department. My fault for not checking them (but I did check everything else).Verify that you have the correct push rod on the correct side. Without the rods on, check and see where the servo arms are. They should be near identical. The instructions for the rods are reversed as explained earlier in the thread. I had no issues with my flaps. I just needed to set the throws on the TX. I just figured mine out without the book.Comment
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Ouch. Hope it wasn't to bad.:(
No, it's probably the one servo has the arm placed a tooth or two out- one of my inner flap ones was like that. That, and not tight main gear set screws that resulted in a high speed excursion off the runway (with damage) has me disappointed in FW's QC department. My fault for not checking them (but I did check everything else).Comment
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Thanks Tom. Looking forward to a Canadian flyin.Comment
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Hello all,
I have been reading this thread for a while. Great information. I spent most of yesterday applying decals on my plane, but ran into an issue with #4, the Oxygen tank decal. Can anyone PM me a scan of that particular decal so that I can print one at home? Looking forward for a maiden flight soon.
Thanks,
DarrenComment
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got the measurements I need.... looks like they'll work, though Horizons OOS at the moment, so I'll have to wait to try it out.www.TSHobbies.com
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According to this they won't but I don't know enough about it.
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I'm not talking about the retracts..just the struts
According to this they won't but I don't know enough about it.
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