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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

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  • Originally posted by Elbee View Post

    O-T, I don't know that it would matter as I have the FlightLine BUBBLY-lookin' version. Your comment about a 3-digit code number is what sparked the thought. The one I was contemplating is 831 and I have not yet found a picture to corroborate it, just a good-lookin' plastic build. Ah'll le' ya know, Laddie. Tis a wee early yet. Best, LB
    I can help you with that. Check your email.

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    • Originally posted by Elbee View Post

      O-T, I don't know that it would matter as I have the FlightLine BUBBLY-lookin' version. Your comment about a 3-digit code number is what sparked the thought. The one I was contemplating is 831 and I have not yet found a picture to corroborate it, just a good-lookin' plastic build. Ah'll le' ya know, Laddie. Tis a wee early yet. Best, LB
      Would Robert Whiting and Paul Whiting be the same person? Check page 8 of this link, bottom of the page. https://www.markstyling.com/F4U_01.htm

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      • WarBirdCharley & Hardway,

        We be on the same page.

        The -1A introduced the canopy that we all are familiar with. The -1A was a three piece affair with two horizontal frames. The – 1D and subsequent models had a single piece blown canopy.
        The -1A eliminated the bottom bombing window and somewhere in the later part of the -1A run, Vought ran out of salmon primer and went to Yellow Zinc Chtomate for their primer. The pilot seat was also raised some inches to afford the pilot better visibility. Also the three tone camouflage paint was introduced during the -1A’s production run.

        Fun stuff,eh!
        Enjoy this thread - learn great stuff and enjoy each other’s company.

        :corsair

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        • Roger that!!! Good folks here for sure!!! :-)

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          • Good stuff folks, love the scale detail info!

            I got my 3D printed cockpit kit all painted beautifully by AkumaZeto...Looks awesome!! Does anyone have the precise panel for it? Someone posted a nice rendering but it is not a precise fit so before I take the time to cut each dial out and put in place to fit, I wanted to double check to see if someone has the perfect fit panel for the 3D printed cockpit...I remember Elbee mentioning something about it?
            My YouTube RC videos:
            https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda

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            • Originally posted by Ole-Timer View Post
              Would Robert Whiting and Paul Whiting be the same person? Check page 8 of this link, bottom of the page
              O-T, I believe they are 'one and the same' and that I shall make an appointment with the Optometrist in the morning. What an ultra maroon. It still begs the question is anyone doing this livery? There are many great choices and I will acquiesce as I can't even get the Lieutenant's name correct, therefore, I have no biz doing his livery. Humbly, LB
              I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
              ~Lucky B*st*rd~

              You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
              ~Anonymous~

              AMA#116446

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              • Originally posted by Hiflyer View Post
                Got my repainted bubble top out for its maiden today. Flight went great but it did Rage a bit of aileron trim to keep it from rolling. Landings were a breeze, slowed down very well and landed lightly. I’m impressed with the flight time, easily 8 minutes minimum with variable throttle settings. For me the minimum settings were more than enough. Looking forward to flying this again.
                Congrats on the maiden! I love that scheme. I am going after an earlier version. I have Callie all qued up. I hope that nosed over picture isn't prophetic. ;)Click image for larger version

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                • Originally posted by sethscorsair View Post
                  This was the only spot I could find on the horizontal stab what should I use to fill it in or should I not worry about it?
                  I have used beacon foam filler with good results. I dont sand it though. I use water and a foam rubber sanding block. It smooths it. Then just wipe the excess that gets pushed off to the sides with a damp paper towel. Obviously you will want to touch it up with paint after it dries.

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                  • Thanks also does anyone with a spektrum radio give me the specific percents for flaps on the 3 position setting and elevator mix if any. Thanks again got my receiver glued put it to the right wing side of the battery on the wood flat piece.

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                    • As a side note: I wanted to do a different livery for my bubbletop so I ordered a 1:8 scale graphics from Callie specific to Boyington's "Lucybelle" w/ 86 nomenclature. As expected the graphics are beautiful but noticed the "Star and Bar" is a little smaller than the Star / Bar that came in the standard livery set. The specs show the 1600mm is a 1:8 scale. Is it actually 1:8 scale or a little larger? Thanks - Grover54

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                      • Originally posted by Elbee View Post

                        O-T, I believe they are 'one and the same' and that I shall make an appointment with the Optometrist in the morning. What an ultra maroon. It still begs the question is anyone doing this livery? There are many great choices and I will acquiesce as I can't even get the Lieutenant's name correct, therefore, I have no biz doing his livery. Humbly, LB
                        LB,
                        Don’t beat yourself up, you deserve much better. We are all in the humanity boat together.
                        Incidently, I did go to the Optometrist Tuesday at 3:30pm...! How ironic is that :Nerd:,all good to!
                        Ive decieded to do Gus’s Gopher and will not rely on Callie but cut stencils and paint all markings.

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                        • I received mine yesterday (birdcage) and I was completely amazed at the heft of the plane. The wing is an actual wing with an airfoil. There's no foam hinges to break in, turning the wing and the flaps slide down into position. I haven't gone over it with a microscope but I'm in awe at the quality of this plane. It's hard to believe it's a foamy. My only regret is I can't weather it, this plane needs to show use. It needs tp be dirty to look right. I may have to order an airbrush and learn how.

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                          • Hey guys, all of these examples of painting look great. Unfortunately, I totally screwed up the fuse on mine. The wing and tail group are fine but the fuse is a mess. I used the stencil method with the 1/8" stand offs made from felt pads and held the rattle can back at a 45 degree angle when spraying the intermediate blue but after removing the stencil, I found allot of overspray or underspray in this case. So, I had gotten away with using some xylol on a cloth to remove light over spray before, but not this time. Overspray was a little heavier on the fuse and with the second wipe, it started taking the Navy Blue right off! DOH!! Gonna have to touch up with a close match on the navy blue which I totally didn't want to do. Hoping also to find a different solvent that will remove the oil base Tamiya paint without attacking the water base original navy blue. Anybody know if Tamiya or Model Master makes a perfect match in rattle cans for the factory navy blue on the Bubble Corsair? Trying to avoid the airbrush.

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                            • Originally posted by OV10 View Post
                              https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/...rodID=SPMAR620
                              Jerry.....FYI
                              DSM2 Compatible.................First line in the non bulleted overview. ;)
                              "The Spektrum AR620 air receiver is a full-range, 6-channel sport receiver with DSMX/DSM2 compatibility and a compact footprint that’s streamlined to fit in a wide range of models."
                              Hey Charlie. I didn't look it up. I never took the time to look at the new receivers since I am old school and not having an antenna and "fly by" kind of freaked me out.... Thanks for the heads up Bro!!! I don't need no stinking internet.... LOL

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                              • At least I was thinking..... Sometimes a lost art these days.... ;)

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                                • Originally posted by Ole-Timer View Post
                                  LB, I've decided to do Gus’s Gopher and will not rely on Callie but cut stencils and paint all markings.
                                  O-T, Great choice! As for painting your markings, Kipling comes to mind, "You are a better man than I am, Gunga Din." LOL Best, LB
                                  I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.
                                  ~Lucky B*st*rd~

                                  You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.
                                  ~Anonymous~

                                  AMA#116446

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                                  • Where does the rubber mesh thing go?

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                                    • Originally posted by sethscorsair View Post
                                      Where does the rubber mesh thing go?
                                      The rubber mesh sits underneath your battery to further protect it from sliding. Some glue it in for even extra security, I don't glue it in and never had a problem as long as I strap the battery tight with it underneath. Others chuck it and just put velcro down instead.

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                                      • Originally posted by sethscorsair View Post
                                        Where does the rubber mesh thing go?
                                        That’s an anti skid pad for your battery. Just put it under your battery before you strap it down. Either that or some hook and loop.

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                                        • Oh ok i thought it was some more scale feature i had to install lol been working on this joker all day about done! I dont think im gonna fool with the skinny black stickers on top of the wing. What are they for? Also how should i tighten the prop hub through the little hole? Or just finger tight?

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