That would be my guess as well the multi function box malfuntioned you are very lucky it wasnt worse than it was.
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Originally posted by sethscorsair View PostThat would be my guess as well the multi function box malfuntioned you are very lucky it wasnt worse than it was.
I had forgotten that the steering was not working until I cycled the retracts switch. Someone pointed that out in my video. Has anyone else noticed this behavior on their Corsair? I think that is a big clue. Probably the multi connector blue box is the culprit. I never lost power to the receiver.
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It could have been the multi box. Perhaps some of the connections there had poor grounding. When I build planes with these boxes in them, I always yank ALL the plugs out and wiggle them back in firmly and make sure they are all seated and in the correct polarity. With mine, I also carefully inspected the connections in the wing. Mine had one retract plug and one of the control surface plugs swapped. The other retract plug was not seated all the way (nearly at the beginning of the connection). One of the control surface plugs was inverted and that servo never worked at all till the polarity was corrected. Since yours all worked to begin with, it could still have been one or more plugs not seated and this could cause intermittent current flow, which could have interfered with the control board's overall function. Did you check any of these things when you built the plane?
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Originally posted by xviper View PostIt could have been the multi box. Perhaps some of the connections there had poor grounding. When I build planes with these boxes in them, I always yank ALL the plugs out and wiggle them back in firmly and make sure they are all seated and in the correct polarity. With mine, I also carefully inspected the connections in the wing. Mine had one retract plug and one of the control surface plugs swapped. The other retract plug was not seated all the way (nearly at the beginning of the connection). One of the control surface plugs was inverted and that servo never worked at all till the polarity was corrected. Since yours all worked to begin with, it could still have been one or more plugs not seated and this could cause intermittent current flow, which could have interfered with the control board's overall function. Did you check any of these things when you built the plane?
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Originally posted by karltrek View Post
Yes. I do the same thing. I always check all the connections. There was no indication of any that were not seated fully.
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Originally posted by karltrek View PostCan anyone tell me what went wrong with my new Flightline 1600mm Corsair? As soon as I deployed the retracts I lost all control. I did not lose the radio signal. I was having a beautiful flight when I decided to do a touch and go. As soon as I was line up and on approach, the plane stopped responding right as the gear extended. The plane has minor damage but $70 worth of retracts are toast. After the crash, everything was working fine. So I am guessing the damn Multi-Function Control Box must have malfunctioned. I am so disappointed right now. Here is the video for your enjoyment. :Angry:
https://youtu.be/wUKXXLVXBiQ
As you will remember, the elevator servo plugs directly into your receiver and not the blue box. there no reason for this to fail other than a possible ESC brown out type of situation? The elevator servo is not connected through the blue box...
What do you think?
this is a photo of my receiver connections to the blue box for reference.
All the best
Rich
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Friggin' maddening:Not-Talking::Angry::Angry::Angry:
But I'd make a bet it was the blue box of death. Had the same thing happen with the Spitfire on takeoff. Left the ground and left rolled over and into the ground. Fortunately it was repairable. Analysis showed that the wire coming out of the box for the ailerons came loose.
I've had good success with the blue box in the Bearcat, now 3 years old, so they either work or kill an airplane. I have a new one in the Spitty and keeping my fingers crossed....
Grossman56Team Gross!
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Originally posted by Elbee View Post
TOA, Looking forward to watching your progress. I have yet to start either, though there might be a "Freewing Flying Fortress Spring Project" beforehand and then there's that new F/A 18C. Yes, distractions abound.LOL Best, LB
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Originally posted by downwindleg View PostWhat's this about a Flying Fortress? Do you know something we don't or is this a case of wishful thinking?I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Cannot remember just what caused it but the gear on Corsair acted up, I think I had them retracted on transmitter when they were down when I plugged in the battery. Now I always double check before plugging in and cycle the gear and check all controls so surfaces including flaps. Because I fly out of a field, literally speaking, I always take some of kind stand. Lucky I haven’t had any problem with the on board electronics on any of the three Flight Line models I own.
Just as full scale, sometimes it’s the little things that cause serious problems.
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Hey Y'all, Has anyone posted the Home Depot Color Codes for Non-Specular Blue and Intermediate Blue in this forum? :Confused: Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Ever since swapping out the stock wheels for the Robart 3.5" wheels I've had two nose overs on what should be nice greasers. Adding the extra weight to the cowl combined with the upgrade wheels makes her nose heavy with gear down so I need to be in the mindset of coming in on high rates for max elevator throw so I can help the tail settle, especially on a 2-pointer (like this evening, a beautiful 2-point greaser that rolled out into a nose over in the grass that broke the top half of the rudder near in half). Bummer! I may have to shoot for 3-pointers to keep that tail low on landing. So it's something to be mindful of for those considering switching to the 3.5's.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostEver since swapping out the stock wheels for the Robart 3.5" wheels I've had two nose overs on what should be nice greasers. Adding the extra weight to the cowl combined with the upgrade wheels makes her nose heavy with gear down so I need to be in the mindset of coming in on high rates for max elevator throw so I can help the tail settle, especially on a 2-pointer (like this evening, a beautiful 2-point greaser that rolled out into a nose over in the grass that broke the top half of the rudder near in half). Bummer! I may have to shoot for 3-pointers to keep that tail low on landing. So it's something to be mindful of for those considering switching to the 3.5's.
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostEver since swapping out the stock wheels for the Robart 3.5" wheels I've had two nose overs on what should be nice greasers. Adding the extra weight to the cowl combined with the upgrade wheels makes her nose heavy with gear down so I need to be in the mindset of coming in on high rates for max elevator throw so I can help the tail settle, especially on a 2-pointer (like this evening, a beautiful 2-point greaser that rolled out into a nose over in the grass that broke the top half of the rudder near in half). Bummer! I may have to shoot for 3-pointers to keep that tail low on landing. So it's something to be mindful of for those considering switching to the 3.5's.
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Originally posted by p51mustangman View Post
I haven't flown mine yet, but was thinking about adding graphite or grease to the axel along with possibly reaming out the diameter of the wheels a touch to help prevent this...
I have noticed that taildraggers can go over very easily, not only model but full scale.
Ken
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostEver since swapping out the stock wheels for the Robart 3.5" wheels I've had two nose overs on what should be nice greasers. Adding the extra weight to the cowl combined with the upgrade wheels makes her nose heavy with gear down so I need to be in the mindset of coming in on high rates for max elevator throw so I can help the tail settle, especially on a 2-pointer (like this evening, a beautiful 2-point greaser that rolled out into a nose over in the grass that broke the top half of the rudder near in half). Bummer! I may have to shoot for 3-pointers to keep that tail low on landing. So it's something to be mindful of for those considering switching to the 3.5's.
JoePlatt: fw190d9 Dynaflite:PT-19 IMP:Macchi202 ESM:fw190 ESM:Tank, Hien Jackson:DH-2 BH:macchi200 Extr:fw190 Holman:me109F H9spit2 FL:F4u,spit 9 FW:me262 GP:us60, Stuka, cub, F4u PZ:me109, albi EF Hurri, T-28 FMS: 2x fw190, me109 Lone Star:Skat Kat RSCombat:2xfw190d9
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Actually my wheels are not spinning as freely as the stock did which could be the true culprit. Not sure why, the axle seemed to fit fine when I installed...I will take a closer look over the holiday weekend...Thanks for the input fellas.My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostActually my wheels are not spinning as freely as the stock did which could be the true culprit. Not sure why, the axle seemed to fit fine when I installed...I will take a closer look over the holiday weekend...Thanks for the input fellas.
They grab the axle shaft and rub then eventually wear and then wobble.
I've always used alum tube as a bushing on the Robart
The stock wheel has a metal bushing;) 5mm ID alum tube is pretty common.Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Good to know thanks! I usually don't swap out my wheels...Looks like a trip to the local hardware store is imminent. ;)My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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