Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

**gooniac33** · Aug 31, 2016, 08:31 AM

Here is a warbird formation flight from this weekend... 2 P-38s

**downwindleg** · Sep 1, 2016, 11:07 AM

Just installed the new castle struts on the mains replacing the flightline P-40 ones. They are far superior in two ways. First, each strut has four allen set screws for connecting to the strut wire coming out of the trunion for a good solid connection and second, the scissor is all metal and pretty precise. Very pleased with the scale look of them. I'll be trying them out this weekend. However, I just couldn't put that nose strut on without the scissor. For now I'm staying with the P-51 strut. I will probably go with the Motion upgrades for the nose. I'm hoping they might be willing to sell me just the nose strut- what do you think Aros? Brad

**Delizar** · Sep 1, 2016, 06:04 PM

Yet another example of Motion RC's customer service. I put in a Tech Support request on my Binding Elevator for a purchase 4 months ago. I was more or less just asking if I was interpreting the problem correctly and asking for a possible solution. The next morning I check my email and I have 2 from MotionRC. One saying they are sending me a replacement, no questioning me, no videos of the problem...just we are sending you a replacement. The 2nd email was the shipping and Tracking Number.

I know I've read several notes like this one on these forums. But it sure hits home when its you having your problem resolved.

**Dewey H Lee** · Sep 1, 2016, 06:18 PM

Hey man what can anyone say but there GREAT. They back there product and other companies had better look out because there going all the way to the top. They have done the same for me as well.

***Grossman56*** · Sep 1, 2016, 07:16 PM

Ever wonder why so many of us are so loyal?? Now you know.

Grossman56

**Lon** · Sep 1, 2016, 08:03 PM

Originally posted by downwindleg

Just installed the new castle struts on the mains replacing the flightline P-40 ones. They are far superior in two ways. First, each strut has four allen set screws for connecting to the strut wire coming out of the trunion for a good solid connection and second, the scissor is all metal and pretty precise. Very pleased with the scale look of them. I'll be trying them out this weekend. However, I just couldn't put that nose strut on without the scissor. For now I'm staying with the P-51 strut. I will probably go with the Motion upgrades for the nose. I'm hoping they might be willing to sell me just the nose strut- what do you think Aros? Brad

I've got about 15 flights logged now with the new castle struts on both the silver and green 38. I've got the castle nose strut installed also. I've had no issues with them. Working great!

**BadBob** · Sep 1, 2016, 09:43 PM

Originally posted by downwindleg

Just installed the new castle struts on the mains replacing the flightline P-40 ones. They are far superior in two ways. First, each strut has four allen set screws for connecting to the strut wire coming out of the trunion for a good solid connection and second, the scissor is all metal and pretty precise. Very pleased with the scale look of them. I'll be trying them out this weekend. However, I just couldn't put that nose strut on without the scissor. For now I'm staying with the P-51 strut. I will probably go with the Motion upgrades for the nose. I'm hoping they might be willing to sell me just the nose strut- what do you think Aros? Brad

I have mine as well and couldn't get one of the set screws out from the left main. Stuck! So I emailed Castle and they suggested I drill out the stuck set screw with a 2 mm drill and try to screw in a new one. No go! At least I drilled out the set screw and was able to insert the strut now. Good thing is, the stuck set screw is not the one that screws into the strut wire set screw slot. So I have 3 set screws on that strut. Should I use blue lock tight on the strut set screws? Comments??

Update: OK. I'm switching out the stock L/G with the Castle ones and can't get the stock axle set screw to come out on all 3 axles. I saw a video about using J&B Weld, but not for this small a screw. Makes me wonder if the China folks (again) used a very hard thread lock on them. They even appear to be inserted cross threaded.

**Lon** · Sep 1, 2016, 09:50 PM

I went thru the same thought process. Decided no lock tight. Reason is, it doesn't even take a minute after a flight to check them for tightness. Of the 15+ flights with them. Have had to tighten just one.

**BadBob** · Sep 1, 2016, 10:02 PM

Originally posted by Lon

I went thru the same thought process. Decided no lock tight. Reason is, it doesn't even take a minute after a flight to check them for tightness. Of the 15+ flights with them. Have had to tighten just one.

Thanks Lon. I'll add this to my pre and post flight check list.

**mr.frankenjet** · Sep 2, 2016, 06:37 PM

the supplied contact cement makes a great locktite and is always removable. I use a soldering iron to heat stuck set-secrews, works like a champ.

**Chalredline1** · Sep 4, 2016, 10:59 AM

Going to remove the struts but can someone tell me what the exact size hex wrench size is I need to remove the grub screws?
Thanks, Mark

**Lon** · Sep 4, 2016, 12:34 PM

1.5 is what you need.

**TiredIronGRB** · Sep 4, 2016, 12:40 PM

Originally posted by Chalredline1

Going to remove the struts but can someone tell me what the exact size hex wrench size is I need to remove the grub screws?
Thanks, Mark

Heat the grub screw with the tip of a soldering iron before you try to loosen it.

**Chalredline1** · Sep 4, 2016, 01:04 PM

Will do. Thanks!

**BadBob** · Sep 4, 2016, 03:21 PM

Trying to get that c-ring out of the stock nose strut is definitely a challenge. With my old eyes, I can't see anywhere to get the smallest flat head screw driver into a slot to pop it off. I don't foresee a need for it anyway, as the new Castle strut has it's own C-ring, so I'm considering cutting it with my dremel.

**xviper** · Sep 4, 2016, 04:57 PM

Originally posted by BadBob

Trying to get that c-ring out of the stock nose strut is definitely a challenge. With my old eyes, I can't see anywhere to get the smallest flat head screw driver into a slot to pop it off. I don't foresee a need for it anyway, as the new Castle strut has it's own C-ring, so I'm considering cutting it with my dremel.

Hold on! Before you cut that C-clip off, wait till you try to put the Castle unit in. You may find that the C-clip on the Castle unit is too big to fit inside the stock retract piece. Until you decide what to do, you might not want to destroy something that you might need later. I gave up on the Castle unit and cut off the top section of the stock strut. I needed the old C-clip.

**xviper** · Sep 4, 2016, 05:01 PM

Originally posted by BadBob

My 1/16" socket screw driver works for me. Also, I notice that the Castle gear main axles will not insert completely into the strut with the stock tires on. The width of the tire rim is 20.14mm and the length of the axle where the tire will fit up to the strut is 17.96mm. I haven't gotten to the nose yet to see if that's the same issue there as well.

I'm using the FMS P-51 tires but same problem here. 1. I dremelled off a bit of the lip around the axle hole so that part is flush. 2. I dremelled a new angled flat spot on the axle that goes into the strut so the hex screw would have something to bite on.

**BadBob** · Sep 4, 2016, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by xviper2

Hold on! Before you cut that C-clip off, wait till you try to put the Castle unit in. You may find that the C-clip on the Castle unit is too big to fit inside the stock retract piece. Until you decide what to do, you might not want to destroy something that you might need later. I gave up on the Castle unit and cut off the top section of the stock strut. I needed the old C-clip.

AAHH, to late! By the time I did get it off, there wasn't anything left to keep. I ground a slot on the retract whoswasit down where the c-clip should be so it can still spin freely and then sna pping it back on there. Seems to work fine.

**xviper** · Sep 4, 2016, 08:05 PM

Originally posted by BadBob

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n48474[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n48475[/ATTACH]

AAHH, to late! By the time I did get it off, there wasn't anything left to keep. I ground a slot on the retract whoswasit down where the c-clip should be so it can still spin freely and then sna pping it back on there. Seems to work fine.

I sincerely hope that won't weaken that piece. The front retract can sometimes hit pretty hard. That part on another of my planes cracked and broke off on a rough landing (and it was completely intact to begin with).

**BadBob** · Sep 4, 2016, 08:32 PM

Originally posted by xviper2

I sincerely hope that won't weaken that piece. The front retract can sometimes hit pretty hard. That part on another of my planes cracked and broke off on a rough landing (and it was completely intact to begin with).

Yeh, I thought about that. Hope that doesn't happen. I thought about dabbing a bit of Vaseline around the c-clip and the gear wire just to make sure I still have enough spin play for the c-clip and applying a bit of JB Weld in the slots I cut. Just a bit of reapplied reinforcement I hope. I'll give a thorough stress test before I put in.

I'm just wondering about all the others that have replaced the retracts with the Castle or otherwise and haven't weighed in on this. If they're not having any issues with installation, I would love to know why. Are we the only and hopeful ground breakers? LOL.