Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[quitcherbitchen]

So fiberglass the outer panel on the bottom for insurance?

[borntoolate]

Heck yeah! Looks great Bob! Look like a great day flying!

Thanks! It was a beautiful day yesterday. I highly recommend the 3mm shim to all. It was so hectic flying and working on a couple of issues, I did not get to fly my B-25 or the Bearcat.

Bob

[rifleman_btx]

So fiberglass the outer panel on the bottom for insurance?

I'm starting to feel like that's a really good idea or some 15min epoxy. There just seems to be alot of stress on that piece for just common glue to hold it reliably in my opinion. If it were me and I was Dynam I would have continued the spar at least about 2 inches past the panel to basically make that panel stress free and still have all the wiring serviceable in case of a failed servo or changing LEDs.

[RRHandy]

Today was the day for my B-26 maiden. Karltrek did the honors today and did a great job. He also re-maidened his B-26 after adding the ~3mm shim under the horizontal stabilizer. The 3mm shim makes all the difference!


Bob

Love the paint scheme

[TiredIronGRB]

Today was the day for my B-26 maiden. Karltrek did the honors today and did a great job. He also re-maidened his B-26 after adding the ~3mm shim under the horizontal stabilizer. The 3mm shim makes all the difference!


Bob

That''s just gorgeous Bob!

[quitcherbitchen]

I'm starting to feel like that's a really good idea or some 15min epoxy. There just seems to be alot of stress on that piece for just common glue to hold it reliably in my opinion. If it were me and I was Dynam I would have continued the spar at least about 2 inches past the panel to basically make that panel stress free and still have all the wiring serviceable in case of a failed servo or changing LEDs.

That idea of increasing the spar is simple. Just buy a longer carbon tube to replace the fiberglass stock one.

[rifleman_btx]

Exactly! :)

[borntoolate]

Love the paint scheme

Thanks RRHAndy!

Bob

[borntoolate]

That''s just gorgeous Bob!

George, that is high praise coming from an artist such as yourself.

Bob

[NoDirt!]

Greetings gang, just wondering if anyone has 3d printed Wingnuts cockpit, guns and Norden sight. If so how'd they turn out? Are the gun barrels a little smaller in diameter? (A little more scale?)

I'm almost ready to hit the B26 buy button but would like to fiind out if someone here has opinions on weather I should get these pieces printed.
It looks to me they are a must have :)

[warbirdbob]

Hey nodirt---Have had very little joy with my B-26 by Dynam. First flight was a crash and had to replace fuse. Second was not any better, and am going for #3 this weekend. If it's no better, I'll send you mine POD

[warbirdbob]

I've been reading a lot of the posts on the B-26, and I'm having the same issues as most everyone else has had. Snaps and crashes. Will try the tail shim thing and see if that helps mine.

[borntoolate]

I've been reading a lot of the posts on the B-26, and I'm having the same issues as most everyone else has had. Snaps and crashes. Will try the tail shim thing and see if that helps mine.

Go with the tail shim. It does make a difference.

Bob

[rifleman_btx]

Need help finding the front plastic for the B26. Must be had by this weekend. Thanks.

[themudduck]

I've been reading a lot of the posts on the B-26, and I'm having the same issues as most everyone else has had. Snaps and crashes. Will try the tail shim thing and see if that helps mine.

Hey, we've been discussing these issues for some time here, I know it was many pages back but its important to do these fixes if you want to avoid big problems! If you've already had some crashes then that's just emphasizing the point.... be sure to get them done... They're not optional! The model flies really beautifully after these things are done.

Very important:
- Add a 3mm shim under the TE of the stabilizer (trim a bit off the bottom of the rudder so it doesn't rub on the stab)
- Reduce the elevator throw (and use expo). No more than 1/2 inch and a bit less than that is better.
- Secure the plastic wing attachment points in the fuselage with epoxy (they come out easily and the wing won't stay down) See pictures on page 23. Then, ensure the TE of the wing is sitting completely flat on the saddle - a bit of trimming may be needed if its too tight at the front. If the rear part of the hatch isn't a flush fit at the top of the fuselage, the TE of the wing may still be too high. (see page 21)
- Check all eight flap hinges, in many cases we found they're not glued in well and can fall right off.
- Remove the tail weights (they are inside behind the tail guns)

also - check the fit of the cowls to ensure they are on all the way and secure
also - check the glue joint at the front of the nacelles where they attach to the wing
also - check the flaps to make sure they deploy equally

Optional (for looks):
- If needed, remove and re-mount the magnet at the front of the wing hatch a bit higher so that the hatch fits properly to the fuselage
- Print out the nose decal for the bombardier's station (see page 21)
- Paint the inside of the cockpit. (I repainted the pilots as well)
- Replace the "race car slicks" with scale wheels (use a slightly larger nose wheel, to raise the nose) See page 22. Shorten the axles if you wish.
- Check all the guns - reglue them if they are loose or cockeyed
- Check the aileron, the inside edge will rub on the flap when the flap is down. Slight trimming with a razor will fix that
- Paint the bare (unpainted) inside part of the flaps
- Paint the servos to match the aircraft


My own recommendation:
Use takeoff flaps (around 10 degrees) and you won't have tip-stalls on takeoff.(also use whenever you're flying slowly)
Use landing flaps (ALL the way down) every time you bring it in, no exceptions.
Use a smaller battery to reduce the weight, such as a 3600. You'll still get a very long flight time.
Use at least 40% expo on the elevator and do NOT use full elevator at high speed (unless you want to snap)

Test with the battery forward. Check the flight characteristics carefully for determining the balance point.
With the balance point at 60mm, I flew the plane into a 45-degree up-line and released the stick, and the model continued to rotate towards vertical (indicating its tail heavy)
At 55mm, did the same test and the model held the line (indicating its close to correct). Others have been flying at 65mm and my feeling is that is too tail-heavy. However models can vary, so test it in the air and set your CG based on how the flight tests go. Don't fly your model tail heavy!

On mine, I lowered the LE of the stab by about a mm and carefully adjusted the stab saddle (sanding) to minimize the gap, so I only have a 2mm shim at the back. Same difference. Picture on post #565 on page 29.

[warbirdbob]

As I stated--Will try the "fixes" but it's a shame the Mfg. didn't do it's work and make a flyable model in the first place!!!

[rifleman_btx]

Much agreed

[themudduck]

Yes I agree 100% as well. I think this is a big negative - especially for relatively inexperienced modelers who don't know what to look for.
Thank goodness that we have this forum.

After taking the time to making these fixes (the tail shim made a huge difference) the model is very pleasant to fly. I really like it. I fly it a lot and I've had no issues. But I think that the P61 will most likely be exactly the same, I mean I am sure we'll have to go over it and fix the same kids of issues but then it will be excellent afterwards. I have a feeling however, that the P61 will need to be kept out of the sun!

When is the P61 coming. Dammit. :Angry:

[rifleman_btx]

After this one, all I can say to them on the p61. Take time to make it absolutely right please

[ryramZ]

Stock except paint and lights.