Roban - World Class Scale Helicopters

You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by Mad Baron View Post
    themudduck

    Thanks for the advice on B-26 I am going to sand the front of the saddle on the vertical stab and see if that helps with getting my plane air born. Where do you have your CG set? Mine is at 60mm.
    I noticed the stab part was not sitting flush with the fuselage at the top edge....so I ended up lowering it about a mm at the front and then I also installed the 2mm shim at the back. It was necessary to trim just a little foam to keep the rudder from hitting the stab. (Once the back of the stab is raised, it can hit the rudder) You can see this in the third picture in post #989

    I did specific flight testing to test the balance point. The CG is very important, especially for this model.
    Others in this thread say 60mm works for them, but I found that my model was still displaying tail-heavy flight characteristics.

    Here are two specific tests you can do with any plane... assuming that your plane is trimmed for level flight. (a) in flight, run the plane upwards at a 45-degree angle and let go of the sticks. A tail-heavy plane will pitch further up all by itself... a neutral plane will maintain the heading, a nose-heavy plane will tend to pitch downwards. (b) Second test: invert the plane and fly it level. A balanced plane will need just a little down elevator, where a tail-heavy plane will need hardly any down elevator at all to maintain level inverted flight... a nose-heavy plane will need a lot of down elevator. (its not the easiest thing to judge, so I prefer the first test.)

    My model at 60mm still tended to "pitch up" all by itself in the first test, and in the second test it would fly upside down without hardly a touch of down elevator. So I am flying now at 55-57mm. It will still snap-roll if I force it, but not during normal flight. I am using 38% expo on the elevator - so I don't get full elevator as quickly, which helps. I also use takeoff flaps for takeoff and full flaps for landing, every time.

    I posted this video in late August, and during the flight I demonstrated how this model will violently snap when you apply full elevator, aileron, and rudder at the same time. See at 1:34 and at 3:40. And this was done with the reduced elevator throw, no tail weight, balance at 55mm, and the stabilizer adjusted!! It snaps like nobody's business but it is very well behaved during normal maneuvers. Some people on this thread have had decent results at 60mm. I found that the model flares better with the CG at 60mm, so I'm not saying 60mm is wrong. Because of these mods, our planes are not all exactly the same. But for me, I like 55 better.
    Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

    Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

    Comment


    • Originally posted by CFIT rob View Post
      MIB66 , if you havent already, make sure your cg is 65mm or less. Some are flying at 55mm ,60 mm,65mm. It seems that no one flying beyond 65mm(i'm 60mm and love the way it flys). The plane is a widowmaker if tail heavy. Also give it 2-3 mm up elevator(i gave mine 1mm and had to give it most of my available trim. I ended up at 3mm. Really sucks to have to madly click trim on a maiden. Go easy on the elevator on take off to keep it from leaping into the air. Full flaps and bring it under a little power and its very easy to land. If I come in to fast it has a tendency to bounce. Hope this helps.
      So do you recommend using the 60-65 mm range and not the 70-75mm? I noticed mine balanced around 60mm with a slight lean to nose heavy which is fine with me.
      I will go with 60mm for CG and elevator w/ 55% throw on high and 30/35% low.. dial in 20-25% expo. I will fly with the lower setting and see how she is as I am a scale flyer and don't get into flying a bomber like a fighter.. so I believe i will be fine there.
      Just let me fly so I may be free

      Comment


      • Some defect I found while assembling this bird, the wing is the one I am not sure what to do outside contact Motion RC
        Attached Files
        Just let me fly so I may be free

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Bearcat View Post

          So do you recommend using the 60-65 mm range and not the 70-75mm? I noticed mine balanced around 60mm with a slight lean to nose heavy which is fine with me.
          I will go with 60mm for CG and elevator w/ 55% throw on high and 30/35% low.. dial in 20-25% expo. I will fly with the lower setting and see how she is as I am a scale flyer and don't get into flying a bomber like a fighter.. so I believe I will be fine there.
          Regarding CFITrob's post, you'll eliminate all or most of the up-trim he talks about by installing the stab shim as discussed earlier, and the model will fly better as well. Take out the weights in the tail and balance the model no further back than 60mm (I am at 55 to 57mm). A 3600 battery saves a little weight... lighter is always better and the 3600 provides plenty of flying time.

          When I get home I'll post my radio settings for the B26. Everyone of us is a bit different but we're all pointing out the same thing.
          Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

          Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Bearcat View Post
            Some defect I found while assembling this bird, the wing is the one I am not sure what to do outside contact Motion RC
            So what it looks like is that the bottom of the right wing panel is fitting properly, but the top has a gap. I'm thinking that this probably won't affect the flying and maybe you can just install a shim to close the gap.

            But I agree this problem is a defect - my guess is that the two halves of the wingtip were glued together incorrectly. (If it was the wing center section that was off, the other wingtip would have the same problem but reversed and the nacelles would be screwed up as well.) So its possible a replacement right wingtip panel will fix this.
            Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.

            Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com

            Comment


            • Flew my B-26 again this morning. Got one flight in as the retracts were acting up. One didn't come down after several attempts at cycling. I had to land it on one main and the nose gear. No damage. Upon bench testing the nose retract was delayed. It had to "think" about it before coming down. This happened once before but when I got home, they all worked. Flew it the next day with no incident.
              Anyone else notice something weird about their retracts? Does this plane use some kind of retract controller? It seems after powering it up, it takes several second before the retracts "wake up". Does it need the controller or can the retracts be hooked up directly to the RX via a triple "Y"?
              BTW, my old Dynam Grand Cruiser exhibited a similar oddity with its retracts. I gave up on it and gave the plane away.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by xviper View Post
                Flew my B-26 again this morning. Got one flight in as the retracts were acting up. One didn't come down after several attempts at cycling. I had to land it on one main and the nose gear. No damage. Upon bench testing the nose retract was delayed. It had to "think" about it before coming down. This happened once before but when I got home, they all worked. Flew it the next day with no incident.
                Anyone else notice something weird about their retracts? Does this plane use some kind of retract controller? It seems after powering it up, it takes several second before the retracts "wake up". Does it need the controller or can the retracts be hooked up directly to the RX via a triple "Y"?
                BTW, my old Dynam Grand Cruiser exhibited a similar oddity with its retracts. I gave up on it and gave the plane away.
                Every Dynam etract I've had does this(FW-190 and ME-262). Energize the system and then like 5 seconds later you hear the etract "wake up".
                The controller you refer to XV must be something new from Dynam versus using the internal card, either way the delay is obviously there.
                I don't personally have this bird but when I look at the parts page for this bird the etracts are the standard Dynam type that doesn't require an external controller :Confused:
                A etract that uses an external controller will only have two wires with no signal just + and - voltage leads.
                I'm thinking that what your calling a controller is nothing more than a "junction/distribution" card for the rats nest of wiring if it has one at all. ;)
                Warbird Charlie
                HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

                Comment


                • Bearcat...Cg of 55mm to 60mm are the magic numbers for me. Flew mine sunday (only 4 flights but 8min per flt. CHL 4000 ) I test my aircraft Cg in a similar manner mudduck posted and i get a "neutral" cg test response at 57ish also. XVIPER...i had one of the wheel collars catch the wheel cover during pre build servo testing and on my second flight it failed half retracted. From this i learned dynam gear is easily damaged from a jam situation. It retracted everytime when i had her upside down but would fail in flight. The retracts have no common board or controller. They do have some sort of "arming" procedure that is internal to the gear. Short video about it on motions site. I learned with my gear failure to pause at least 5 seconds between up/down switch changes to give them time to "reset". A bad connection on that gears part of the threeway will give you that failure. I believe any interruption in power supply and they need to re-arm.
                  Still flying P.15, avanti(#2), mig 21, yak 130 70mm(#2), f35, f9f panther, a10 64mm, F8 crusader/ PA ultimate amr /HK skipper, durafly dh vampire, p 51,spit mk24, corsair, flybeam/ BH f86 50mm, deltawing 50mm/ HH su 26 mm,umx pitts,umx sbach, blade nano cp s,blade 450x, inductrix 200, inductrix pro, umx yak 54,umx f27 fpv/ electrifly 4s L39/ flyzone beaver/ volantix asw 28, /dynam B26

                  RIP.. roc hobby waco,strega #2(you will be missed), Fw 90mm eurofighter.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by OV10 View Post

                    Every Dynam etract I've had does this(FW-190 and ME-262). Energize the system and then like 5 seconds later you hear the etract "wake up".
                    The controller you refer to XV must be something new from Dynam versus using the internal card, either way the delay is obviously there.
                    I don't personally have this bird but when I look at the parts page for this bird the etracts are the standard Dynam type that doesn't require an external controller :Confused:
                    A etract that uses an external controller will only have two wires with no signal just + and - voltage leads.
                    I'm thinking that what your calling a controller is nothing more than a "junction/distribution" card for the rats nest of wiring if it has one at all. ;)
                    I yanked out that rat's nest of wires and separated each retract plug and tested each one via a servo tester. It does the same thing in that it takes a few seconds to wake up. That's weird that Dynam does this. There is no "controller", just a triple "Y". All retracts worked individually after "waking up" so failing to find anything wrong, I replaced the triple with another one and tested all the retracts together via the servo tester. All worked. Then plugged it back into the RX and they all worked multiple times. But this was the way the last time. One retract failed to deploy during the flight. I'll give it another go tomorrow. I'm getting good at landing with only 2 retracts deployed.
                    If this continues, I'll look into getting non-Dynam retracts later on. This plane is too nice to give away.

                    Comment


                    • It's a shame we've had to go through all these problems to get this plane in the air! I flew my F7F out of the box and it was the most stable, predictable, solid plane I've flown. With this bird, it's like having to rebuild the thing to get it to even fly half decent. BTW, I renamed mine "The Beast"----wrote it right on the side of the fuse-- pilot side! Trying flight #4 this weekend---at least it's a thrill every time it goes up. Anything can happen!!!

                      Comment


                      • PS----I've noticed the PNP version is still on B/O

                        Comment


                        • OOOPS---I meant RTF

                          Comment


                          • Trying for the maiden flight (take 2) this coming weekend. I am going through the plane and readjusting the stab so maybe I will get a successful flight! :Cool:

                            Comment


                            • Yes it will be a success! :)

                              Comment


                              • :Cool:I'll keep thinking fly, fly, fly!!!

                                Comment


                                • I used 2mm balsa tonight to shim the stab so that was taken care of, now waiting on MRC as we send email and pictures to show how this is fitted together.
                                  the bottom of the wing is flush..the top have has the gap from Hades.. sucks since the other side is perfect.
                                  Just let me fly so I may be free

                                  Comment


                                  • Yikes!

                                    Comment


                                    • Got the stab adjusted just need to set the elevator throw. Rebalanced with the 3600 & 4000 Admiral battery just slightly nose down attitude and with the gear deployed its nearly level. Cant wait to get that first flight in!

                                      Comment


                                      • Heck yeah should be fun!

                                        Comment


                                        • Flew the B-26 again today and once again, retract failure while in the air. First, only one retract came down, then after cycling, none came down. I had to land it in the tall grass. Belly flopped it with no damage. I read in the other forum that Dynam retracts may not work below 60F. I think this may be the key to the whole situation. I was flying near freezing temps. Right out of the warm car, the retracts cycled no problem. About 1/2 way into the flight, I tried the retracts and that's when the problems started. As I got further into the flight and the more it flew through the cold air, none of them worked. This is a real bummer. I like to fly all winter long, so unless I replace these retracts with a suitable non-Dynam gear, this thing is done till next spring.
                                          I think Dynam needs to re-think their choice in retracts and use something from the FMS or Freewing bin. Those things have worked for me to well below freezing temps. No matter how interesting the next Dynam product may be, I will buy it with the notion that the retracts will have to be replaced immediately.

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X