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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
The NO BEARINGS in the road wheels was a deal killer for me. Sold it before I even got it in. Plastic on plastic will last only a few hours of running for me.
Did you try a set of Challenger 2 bearing road wheels on it? They used Challenger road wheels on the prototype. They might have kept the design close enough. Unfortunately I sold my Chieftain before I tried this combination out.
Your Chieftain is the first dirty one I have seen anywhere online👍👍👍
Thats a good idea for the road wheels, might just have to give that a shot. I'll forfeit 100% scale appearance to keep the vehicle running, especially since I just love the Chieftain hull so much.
And thanks! When it arrived and I saw the... rather garish green/black camo I was excited. Those kinds of saturated tones really settle down and look fantastic under some wash layers and pigments. Naturally weathering tanks works, but I like to use washes and pigments to build a good dirty baseline to let the real wear settle in on top of. And weathering is fun!
Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
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fuchstraumer I missed your Chieftain earlier, what a stunner! The driver's hatch is a nice touch on that model. Please consider making a new thread dedicated to the Haya Chieftain, I'm sure others would be interested in a closer look.
I agree with you about the WPL, too. Their Ural is a good base for a P 18 radar conversion. One day!Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Originally posted by Alpha View Postfuchstraumer I missed your Chieftain earlier, what a stunner! The driver's hatch is a nice touch on that model. Please consider making a new thread dedicated to the Haya Chieftain, I'm sure others would be interested in a closer look.
I agree with you about the WPL, too. Their Ural is a good base for a P 18 radar conversion. One day!
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Wow, I haven't seen a Tamiya A4 in what feels like ages!
Please consider creating a separate thread so we can follow along with your restoration. It's be interested to see what updates/refits you end up doing to restore this tank to new glory.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Originally posted by Meter Rat View Post
Thank you for sharing yours.
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working on a TUSK upgrade and repainting job on my Heng Long Abrams. Wishing I had done the anti-slip coating, but couldn't find a good technique to make it happen and wasn't sure if it was wholly worth the rather large risk and time investment (if done wrong, I felt it'd significantly worsen the finish of my model)
Also think I need to probably unfortunately use more stuff like Mr Surfacer on the various 3D printed parts: I'm worried that as soon as I add a wash, it'll just get trapped in the little ridges and make them pop more. I already did 2 generous coats of Mr Surfacer 500 on the armor panels, and it helped quite a bit, but it's still less ideal than I'd like.
always comes down to the question of what I'm really gonna see though - none of my tanks are shelf queens and all see heavy use, and in that case it's unlikely you'll have the time to notice a bit of ribbing on some parts that are rarely up close and at eye level haha
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Did another layer of dirt on the Chieftain - a little generous for sure, but I wanted to make sure it lasted. Especially if I try another layer of sealant. Also, I just have fun weathering my tanks up like this. Making them look motor-pool fresh is all fine and dandy, and there's a lot of wear we can get on our vehicles just by driving them, but it's a little harder to get a good coating of dust and dirt on the upper hull without being generous. And applying this dust is a great way to spend a rainy day or a sunny afternoon on your patio!
edit: also still working on a thread about the Haya Chieftain. Trying to incorporate a good amount of pictures reviewing the unique features on this particular hull is taking more time than I anticipated, as I've been so preoccupied with my project tanks haha. This particular tank is my "cosmetic mods and work only" hull, so I'm not touching it or fiddling with it as often and as such it's not always on my mind.
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Finally got to take the King Tiger outside. We went to the "Ginkelse Heide", a beautiful natural area close to where we live. It was one of the drop zones used by British parachutists in 1944 during the Battle of Arnhem, as a prelude to Operation Market Garden.
More information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Arnhem
During the outing two Apache helicopters of the Dutch Royal Airforce showed up, maybe they thought there was a German invasion going on. Just kidding, there's a military traininground nearby, so they were just doing practices.
It was fun to finally drive the tank outside. It had some difficulty with the terrain in the "low" engine setting. But with the "high" setting it worked pretty well. I think I will need to install red motors sometime though, as I feel I was taxing the motors in this terrain.
My dad took these pictures:
Made it look like a wartime photo:
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Originally posted by UltraVargen View PostFinally got to take the King Tiger outside. We went to the "Ginkelse Heide", a beautiful natural area close to where we live. It was one of the drop zones used by British parachutists in 1944 during the Battle of Arnhem, as a prelude to Operation Market Garden.
More information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Arnhem
During the outing two Apache helicopters of the Dutch Royal Airforce showed up, maybe they thought there was a German invasion going on. Just kidding, there's a military traininground nearby, so they were just doing practices.
It was fun to finally drive the tank outside. It had some difficulty with the terrain in the "low" engine setting. But with the "high" setting it worked pretty well. I think I will need to install red motors sometime though, as I feel I was taxing the motors in this terrain.
My dad took these pictures:
Made it look like a wartime photo:
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