Hi Mike,
The glue supplied with the kit is OK. Or use Foam-Tac. Two important things:
1) Score the joining faces with a razor knife tip.
2) Insert a couple of short carbon rods or tubes into holes that you drill into the fuse halves….about 3 in long each.
If you call top dead center 0 degrees as reference, put a short rod at each 45 degree clockwise and counter clockwise point as measured to the 0 ref point. Careful to drill parallel to the fuselage sides….don’t poke the drill out the side.
Insert this carbon and you won’t have any separation problems. These tubes or rods supply additional support to the rods/tubes already in the kit.
-GG
Awesome thank you, once I join the fuse I can then take measurement and start cutting my custom vinyl for the livery scheme.
Awesome thank you, once I join the fuse I can then take measurement and start cutting my custom vinyl for the livery scheme.
Thanks once again.
A few more tips….
1) Install a gyro to avoid the yaw wiggle. A gyro REALLY makes this a nice flying bird. 50 to 60 percent gain for starters.
2) Never fly with just one winglet on. The induced roll is A LOT!!!!
3) She flies fine w/o the winglets.
4) 1/2 flap for take-off and full flap with a touch of power for the landings.
5) Upon reaching full throttle, the nose will rise up and she lifts off. Super simple take-off.
6) Don’t get too slow on final. She’s not a floater unless you leave a touch of power on.
7) Install RF chokes. Put chokes or RF chokes in the forum search window….read and LEARN! Amazon has them.
8) For good measure, I put a small choke on the elevator and rudder wires way back in the tail by those servos.
9) Some have added bearing sleeves into the wheel hubs to avoid hearing the baby-coach wheel sounds.
10) Fly at half power or the batteries and connectors get HOT!
11) And last….I added carbon tubes into the wiring channel of each wing. Glue them to the top skin inside the channel. It helps to keep the top skin from cracking.
Maybe a deacl that wraps into the well could be done. COuld color something in there but it would look ugly if I do it, I see alot of part in that well that we repair. Skydrol is a nasty fluid.
Maybe a deacl that wraps into the well could be done. COuld color something in there but it would look ugly if I do it, I see alot of part in that well that we repair. Skydrol is a nasty fluid.
As an F/O I ruined many a shirt on the preflight getting into that wheel well, it’s a pretty dirty place. I took that video during one of the rare times I’ve done a preflight in the past 15 years. To this day I marvel at all the junk in there.
Does the AL 37 Airliner require revers Motors or just revers 12 blade props?
And if so what side has the revers motor or prop? Thank you for any info you can share with me.
Does the AL 37 Airliner require revers Motors or just revers 12 blade props?
And if so what side has the revers motor or prop? Thank you for any info you can share with me.
Both. Having just reverse fan won't do anything except blow air out the front (think about it). The motor must also go in reverse. However, you don't need a special "reverse" motor to do it. You just swap two of the 3 motor wires to make it turn the other way.
Although it doesn't matter which goes on which side, I believe they come with fans turning such that the top of the fan goes toward the fuselage.
Thank you. I was given a a37 That a retired Rc hobby guy had and used for parts after rebuilding it All seems well Including pressure coming out the rear but for some reason no matter how hard i pull it to the right it pulls itself to the left and if i just throttle up with no steering it will go in circles. And as you can understand until i correct this it will never take off for Maden Flight. Any ideals would be appreciated.
Thank you. I was given a a37 That a retired Rc hobby guy had and used for parts after rebuilding it All seems well Including pressure coming out the rear but for some reason no matter how hard i pull it to the right it pulls itself to the left and if i just throttle up with no steering it will go in circles. And as you can understand until i correct this it will never take off for Maden Flight. Any ideals would be appreciated.
It seems to me that one of your motors is running in the wrong direction. Both sides should have thrust coming out the back. If one is pushing air out the front, you have to switch 2 of the 3 motor wires on that side. You can see these 3 wires where you connect the wing to the fuselage. Once you get it correct, label them so you know how they go next time you put the plane together.
However, if you have air coming out the back end of each engine, and it still goes in circles when you throttle up, now you need to determine if one side is stronger than the other. If this is the case, you must do a throttle calibration so both sides run exactly the same. After you do the throttle calibration and still does it, then I would suggest that one EDF has been damaged and is not producing as much thrust as it should. If this is the case, then you need to replace it with the appropriate EDF. In case both sides has been damaged, best to replace both.
Does anyone happen to know the amp draw of both motors (combined) at full power? I'm trying to determine if my current sensing telemetry board can handle the amps of both motors or just one. It is rated for 90A continuous and 220A peak. Seems if it is much more than 90A, my XT90 connector wouldn't be able to handle it either.
Does anyone happen to know the amp draw of both motors (combined) at full power? I'm trying to determine if my current sensing telemetry board can handle the amps of both motors or just one. It is rated for 90A continuous and 220A peak. Seems if it is much more than 90A, my XT90 connector wouldn't be able to handle it either.
Thank you.
I don’t have measurements, but this bird at 1/2 power gets my EC5 fairly hot and the battery warm, too. So, I typically cruise a few clicks less than 1/2 power to keep things cooler.
A rough “guess” based upon a typical 4000 mAh consumed in a 4.5 min flight. That’s a rough average draw of 300 amps.
Note: I also cut a hole into the floor of the cockpit opening into the front wheel well to increase airflow through the fuselage when the wheels are down. This has helped.
-GG
PS Neither my PJ-50 or B-2 at 1/2 power cruise draw as much current as my AL37 draws.
I don’t have measurements, but this bird at 1/2 power gets my EC5 fairly hot and the battery warm, too. So, I typically cruise a few clicks less than 1/2 power to keep things cooler.
A rough “guess” based upon a typical 4000 mAh consumed in a 4.5 min flight. That’s a rough average draw of 300 amps.
Note: I also cut a hole into the floor of the cockpit opening into the front wheel well to increase airflow through the fuselage when the wheels are down. This has helped.
-GG
PS Neither my PJ-50 or B-2 at 1/2 power cruise draw as much current as my AL37 draws.
Admiral Pro 6S 6000 mAH and SMC Graphine Extreme 6S 6200 mAH battery
Oops….re-calculating correctly this time. My bad!
4.5 minutes is 0.075 hours
4.5 divided by 60 = 0.075
Then taking 4000 mAh or 4 Ah typically consumed on a flight….at a little less than 1/2 throttle
4Ah divided by 0.075 h = 53.3 amps….not 300 A
Thanks for catching my error.
Double checking…, 53.3 amps x 0.075 hrs = 4 Ah = 4000 mAh
-GG
Soooo my PJ-50 and B-2 at 1/2 throttle draw on average mid-to low 40 A during a mostly cruise flight based upon the mAh they typically consume. And their EC5 and battery run cooler.
The biggest current hog is my F-4 at 75% power fast cruise plus acro which I LIKE! Nearly 70 amps average current draw for a short 3.5 min hot rodding flight.
That's not very much amp draw, plus there's two ESC @60A each. I fly my AL-37 at above 1/2 throttle most of the flight and I don't recall the battery or the connector being all that hot afterward. I use a CNHL 6000, 65c.
Will do….May be a repeat of my MiG connector when the connector “spring” screen inside the EC5 was falling apart.
I have some flower petal / split barrel EC5 connectors. I will replace the connector. The battery isn’t hot…just warmer than when I fly the B-2 or PJ-50.
I expect things to be warmer when I hot rod the F-4. But the amount of cooling air moving thru the F-4 fuselage helps mitigate the heat.
Maybe a deacl that wraps into the well could be done. COuld color something in there but it would look ugly if I do it, I see alot of part in that well that we repair. Skydrol is a nasty fluid.
I found a photo looking up into the wheel well and scaled it to fit, printed and glued it to the top of the well. It's a short cut and doesn't have any 3D relief, but still looks busy when the wheels are down.
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